II 

I 


I 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

DAVIS 

GIFT  OF 

J.  Dewey  Long 


<Tt  Dewey  Long 


KING'S  SERIES  IN   WOODWORK   AND   CARPENTRY 


HANDBOOK 

IN 

WOODWORK    AND    CARPENTRY 

FOR   TEACHERS   AND   NORMAL   SCHOOLS 
BY 

CHARLES   A.   KING 

DIRECTOR    OF    MANUAL   TRAINING 
EASTERN    HIGH    SCHOOL,   BAY   CITY,    MICHIGAN 


NEW   YORK  •:•  CINCINNATI  •:•  CHICAGO 

AMERICAN    BOOK    COMPANY 


KING'S  SERIES  IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


ELEMENTS   OF  WOODWORK 
ELEMENTS    OF    CONSTRUCTION 
CONSTRUCTIVE   CARPENTRY 
INSIDE   FINISHING 
HANDBOOK  FOR   TEACHERS 


COPYRIGHT,  11)11,  BY 
CHARLES   A.   KING. 

ENTERED  AT  STATIONERS'  HALL,  LONDON 
w.  P.    i 


PREFACE   TO   THE   SERIES 

THIS  series  consists  of  five  volumes,  four  of  which  are  intended 
as  textbooks  for  pupils  in  manual-training,  industrial,  trade,  tech- 
nical, or  normal  schools.  The  fifth  book  of  the  series,  the  "  Hand- 
Ix)ok  in  Woodwork  and  Carpentry,"  is  for  the  use  of  teachers  anc 
of  normal  students  who  expect  to  teach  the  subjects  treated  in  the 
other  four  volumes. 

Of  the  pupils'  volumes,  the  first  two,  "  Elements  of  Woodwork ' 
and  "  Elements  of  Construction,"  are  adapted  to  the  needs  of  stu 
dents  in  manual-training  schools,  or  in  any  institution  in  whicl 
elementary  woodwork  is  taught,  whether  as  purely  educationa 
handwork,  or  as  preparatory  to  a  high,  or  trade,  school  course  ii 
carpentry  or  vocational  training. 

The  volumes  "  Constructive  Carpentry "  and  "  Inside  Finish 
ing"  are  planned  with  special  reference  to  the  students  of  tech 
nical,  industrial,  or  trade  schools,  who  have  passed  through  th< 
work  of  the  first  two  volumes,  or  their  equivalent.  The  subject 
treated  are  those  which  will  be  of  greatest  value"  to  both  the  pr,c 
spective  and  the  finished  workman. 

For  the  many  teachers  who  are  obliged  to  follow  a  require< 
course,  but  who  are  allowed  to  introduce  supplementary  o 
optional  models  under  certain  conditions,  and  for  others  wh 
have  more  liberty  and  are  able  to  make  such  changes  as  the; 
see  fit,  this  series  will  be  found  perfectly  adaptable,  regardles 
of  the  grades  taught.  To  accomplish  this,  the  material  has  beei 
arranged  by  topics,  which  may  be  used  by  the  teacher  irrespectiv 
of  the  sequence,  as  each  topic  has  to  the  greatest  extent  possibl 
been  treated  independently. 


vi  PREFACE  TO   THE  SERIES 

The  author  is  indebted  to  Dr.  George  A.  Hubbell,  Ph.D.,  now 
President  of  the  Lincoln  Memorial  University,  for  encouragement 
and  advice  in  preparing  for  and  planning  the  series,  and  to 
George  R.  Swain,  Principal  of  the  Eastern  High  School  of  Bay 
City,  Michigan,  for  valuable  aid  in  revising  the  manuscript. 

Acknowledgment  is  due  various  educational  and  trade  periodi- 
cals, and  the  publications  of  the  United  States  Departments  of 
Education  and  of  Forestry,  for  the  helpful  suggestions  that  the 
author  has  gleaned  from  their  pages. 

CHARLES   A.   KING. 
BAY  CITY,  MICHIGAN. 


PREFACE   TO   HANDBOOK   FOR   TEACHERS 
AND   NORMAL   SCHOOLS 

THE  matter  contained  in  this  .volume  is  arranged  with  special 
reference  to  its  value  to  the  teacher  of  manual  training,  wood- 
work, or  carpentry,  and  to  the  normal  student  preparing  to  teach 
these  subjects.  To  the  latter,  it  offers  many  suggestions  for  the 
discussion  of  equipment  and  courses,  and  of  conditions  that 
exist  in  the  classroom.  It  gives  also  a  preview  of  some  of  the 
obstacles  met  in  leading  pupils  in  the  way  of  manual  righteous- 
ness, and  suggests  methods  of  surmounting  these  obstacles. 

The  contents  of  Chapters  I  and  II,  although  separated  into 
manual  training  and  carpentry,  may  be  applied  to  the  teaching 
of  either  subject  or  both.  A  few  items  mentioned  in  Chapter  II, 
however,  may  be  omitted  in  teaching  a  class  in  educational  manual 
training,  as  they  apply  entirely  to  carpentry  or  joinery.  It  would 
be  unwise,  for  example,  to  spend  time  upon  the  steel  square, 
estimating,  or  extended  practice  in  sawfiling,  as  these  are  subjects 
for  the  prospective  workman. 

While  the  Suggestive  Courses  are  courses  in  woodwork,  the 
hints  and  discussions  may  be  easily  adapted  to  the  teaching  of 
any  branch  of  handwork,  since  classroom  conditions  vary  no  more 
in  the  different  branches  of  manual  training  than  in  the  different 
branches  of  academic  studies. 

The  sketches  of  models  are  intended  to  be  only  suggestive 
as  to  dimensions  and  degree  of  difficulty,  leaving  it  to  the  student 
to  work  out  details  and  to  make  any  changes  that  his  taste  may 
dictate. 

In  the  courses  are  included  some  of  tire  standard  models  which 
have  been  in  use  in  manual-training  schools  for  years,  but  many 
of  the  models  have  been  designed  and  worked  out  in  the  class- 
room in  preparation  for  this  particular  work. 

vii 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  I.  TEACHING  HINTS  :  MANUAL  TRAINING.  —  Exercises  in 
the  joints  ;  Value  of  large  models ;  Sequence  of  tools ;  New  tools ; 
Importance  of  the  model;  Individual  work;  Selection  of  models; 
Working  drawings ;  Stock  cutting  .......  1 

CHAPTER  II.  TEACHING  HINTS  :  CARPENTRY  AND  JOINERY.  —  Relation 
of  Chapters  I  and  II  ;  Theory  ;  Joints  and  exercises ;  Construction ; 
The  blackboard ;  Treatment  of  facts  ;  Written  exercises  ;  Position  ; 
Shingling ;  Arithmetic  ;  The  steel  square  ;  Advanced  class  ;  Use  of 
tools ;  Tendencies  to  be  guarded  against ;  Smoothing  and  sand- 
papering ;  Sa willing ;  Gluing ;  Estimating 10 

CHAPTER  III.  EQUIPMENT  AND  SUPPLIES. — The  equipment ;  Econom- 
ical equipment ;  Comparison  of  tools ;  Care  of  equipment ;  Sup- 
plies ;  Lists  of  equipment 21 

CHAPTER  IV.  SUGGESTIVE  COURSES.  —  Grading  of  exercises  ;  Time 
necessary  for  completion ;  Use  of  outlined  courses ;  Research  and 
written  exercises  :  Tests  and  examinations ;  References  to  other 
volumes ;  Suggestive  courses  in  manual  training ;  Suggestive  trade 
courses  in  carpentry  .........  40 

CHAPTER  V.     SPECIAL  TEACHING  HINTS  AND  SUGGESTIVE  DESIGNS.  — 

New  subjects ;  Stock  cutting ;   Making  the  model ;  Tendencies  to 
be  corrected  ;  Suggestive  designs :  — 

1.  Plant  label  11.  Rule 

2.  Key  tag  12.  Plant  stand.  —  Octagonal 

3.  Wedge  13.  Tool  rack 

4.  Flower  stick  14.  Bench  hook 

5.  Sandpaper  block  15.  Cutting  board 

6.  Pencil  sharpener  16.  Sand  shovel 

7.  Silk  winder  17.  Disli  drainer 

8.  Fishline  winder  18.  Coat  hanger 

9.  Hat  rack  10.  Key  rack 
10.    Table  mat  20.  Blotting  pad 

ix 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS 


21. 

Bracket  shelf 

34.    Picture  frame 

22. 
23. 

Pen  tray 
Plant  stand  —  Halved 

35.    Folding  towel  rack 
36.    Letter  box 

24. 

Bird  house 

37.    Foot  rest 

25. 

Glove  box 

38.    Toilet  case 

26. 

27. 
28. 
29. 

Rod  towel  rack 
Corner  shelf 
Wall  pocket 
Sleeve  board 

39.    Drawing  board 
40.   T  square 
41.    Dovetailed  bookrack 
42.    Plate  rack 

30. 

Cart 

43.    Screen  frame 

31. 

Towel  roller 

44.    Bookcase 

32. 

Knife  box 

45.    Table 

33. 

Paper  knife 

46.    Detail  of  table     . 

56 

TTER  VI.     ANSWERS  TO  ARITHMETIC  QUESTIONS  IN  "ELEMENTS  OF 
CONSTRUCTION"  AND  IN  "INSIDE  FINISHING"  ..... 

ax 

120 
127 

HANDBOOK   FOR  TEACHERS 
IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 

CHAPTER  I 
TEACHING  HINTS.  —  MANUAL  TRAINING 

Exercises  in  the  joints.  —  Students  in  the  sixth,  seventh, 
eighth,  and  ninth  grades  of  manual-training  work  do 
not  need  to  follow  the  exercises  in  the  joints  given  in 
"  Elements  of  Construction"  so  closely  as  does  the  stu- 
dent of  carpentry.  The  manual-training  student  should, 
however,  learn  the  principles  of  construction  of  the  joints, 
together  with  something  of  then-  application  and  use,  and 
the  reasons  why  one  particular  type  of  joint  is  better 
adapted  to  certain  uses  than  are  .others.  He  should  also 
master  the  tool  processes  required  in  making  a  model 
containing  the  form  of  construction  illustrated  by  an 
exercise,  before  he  undertakes  to  make  the  model  itself. 

This  method  is  far  better  than  to  allow  a  student  to 
destroy  what  would  be  a  valuable  model,  or  to  finish  it  by 
means  of  less  accurate  work  than  the  exercises  in  the  in- 
volved joints  would  make  possible.  As  he  gains  skill, 
the  student  will  of  course  be  able  to  dispense  more  and 
more  with  this  preliminary  work. 

In  many  schools,  the  students  make  models  of  increas- 
ing difficulty,  but  much  of  the  work  so  done  is  of  little 
value  except  as  an  exercise.  In  some  instances,  the  model 

l 


2        KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

may  be  named  and  may  be  a  useful  article,  but  often  it 
requires  quite  a  stretch  of  imagination  to  believe  that  tjie 
time  spent  upon  some  particular  piece  of  carefully  finished 
work  has  been  spent  in  the  best  possible  way.  The 
author  is  convinced  by  his  own  work  among  the  students 
of  the  above  grades,  that  the  time  spent  in  drill  and 
in  making  a  few  simple  exercises  is  better  invested,  pro- 
vided a  definite  result  is  accomplished,  the  application 
of  which  is  apparent  in  making  a  practicable  piece  of 
construction. 

Value  of  large  models.  —  Work  upon  large  models  not 
only  interests  students  more  than  does  work  upon  small 
ones,  but  promotes  concentration,  a  more  thoughtful  study 
of  details,  and  care  in  the  use  of  tools.  Judgment  also  may 
be  developed  better  by  working  upon  large  models  than 
upon  many  of  those  used  commonly  in  the  grades;  this 
work  requires,  however,  more  oversight  and  a  broader 
knowledge  upon  the  part  of  the  teacher. 

Sequence  of  tools.  —  Why  any  one  sequence  of  tools  or 
exercises  should  be  strenuously  insisted  upon,  the  author 
has  never  been  able  to  discover.  There  is  bound  to  be  a 
certain  amount  of  awkwardness  in  beginning  to  use  any 
new  type  of  tool,  which  is  overcome  as  the  student 
gains  experience  and  confidence  in  himself  in  the  use  of 
tools  in  general.  There  is  no  occult  reason,  for  instance, 
why  the  use  of  the  jack  plane  should  precede  that  of  the 
bitbrace,  or  vice  versa,  since  the  beginning  and  learning 
processes  have  to  be  passed  through  in  either  case,  and 
neither  depends  upon  the  other. 

The  amount  of  skill  necessary  to  use  the  jack  plane  well 
is  unquestionably  greater  than  that  necessary  to  do  as 
good  work  in  boring  a  hole,  but  as  a  rule  the  jack  plane 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  3 

is  one  of  the  first  tools  used.  This  sequence  is  as  it  should 
be,  because  the  jack  plane  ordinarily  will  be  used  more  than 
the  bitbrace;  this  is  not,  however,  a  psychological  reason, 
but  one  depending  solely  upon  the  exigencies  of  the  work. 
If  "  logical  sequence"  were  followed,  the  bitbrace  should 
be  used  first;  but  this  would  require  that  a  series  of  ab- 
stract models  be  made,  and  in  general  the  devotees  of 
logical  sequence  are  radical  upon  the  question  of  making 
anything  that  cannot  be  given  a  name,  whether  or  not  it 
will  ever  be  used. 

The  block  plane  is  one  of  the  hardest  tools  to  use  effec- 
tively, but  in  the  courses  in  which  sequence  is  considered  of 
so  much  importance,  it  comes,  like  the  jack  plane,  quite 
near  the  beginning  of  the  work,  —  and  for  the  same  rea- 
son, that  the  work  requires  it;  if  logical  sequence  were 
carried  out,  both  these  tools  should  come  after  the  bit- 
brace, the  hammer,  and  a  number  of  other  tools  that  are 
easier  to  use  than  are  the  planes.  The  block  plane  causes 
more  trouble  than  do  most  other  tools,  because  of  the 
splitting  off  of  the  corners  when  planing  across  end  wood. 
This  difficulty  is  overcome  by  some  teachers  by  block- 
planing  in  a  bench  hook,  which  acts  as  a  jack  board 
or  shooting  board,  by  which  the  splitting  off  of  chips  is 
prevented  and  the  work  planed  square  at  the  same  time, 
regardless  of  the  amount  of  skill  possessed  by  the  student. 

Although  this  process  is  entirely  mechanical,  many 
teachers  who  apply  methods  of  this  sort  at  every  oppor- 
tunity wax  enthusiastic  over  the  advantages  of  the  pos- 
session of  skill,  and  the  beauties  of  making  the  hand 
perform  the  desires  of  the  brain. 

The  writer  is  satisfied  that  more  is  gained  by  teaching  the 
most  direct  methods  of  obtaining  results,  than  by  teaching 


4  KING'S    HANDBOOK    FOR   TEACHERS 

those  that  make  unnecessary  labor  simply  for  the  sake  of 
practice,  which  seems  the  only  reason  for  the  existence  of 
certain  methods  followed  by  some  teachers.  The  student 
will  learn  incidentally  to  use  tools  in  all  necessary  ways  and 
under  all  conditions,  the  important  considerations  being 
that  he  should  (1)  comprehend  the  importance  of  ac- 
curacy, (2)  acquire  the  ability  to  control  the  tool,  and 
(3)  understand  the  principle  upon  which  it  operates. 
These  in  general  may  be  as  well  taught  while  using  the 
tool  in  one  way  as  in  another;  after  the  student  has 
attained  a  reasonable  degree  of  proficiency,  the  tool  may 
be  used  for  any  purpose  within  its  scope. 

Some  of  the  school  methods  of  using  tools  and  of  obtain- 
ing results  are  not,  unfortunately,  those  employed  by  me- 
chanics, who  by  their  years  of  experience  learn  to  use 
tools  intuitively  and  in  the  easiest  and  most  effective 
manner.  To  this  statement,  teachers  who  believe  that 
there  is  some  occult  principle  involved  in  the  particular 
methods  and  sequence  in  the  use  of  tools  that  they  practice, 
and  in  the  course  of  models  that  they  follow,  will  probably 
find  objection,  but  the  writer  contends  that  there  is  noth- 
ing educational  in  teaching  a  method  that  is  wrong,  —  and 
some  methods  taught  will  certainly  not  stand  comparison 
with  those  of  mechanics  in  grace  and  ease  of  motion,  effi- 
ciency, or  speed.  The  best  results  may  not  be  obtained 
at  first,  but  in  a  short  time,  if  correct  methods  of  work  are 
instilled  into  the  pupils  from  the  beginning,  there  will  be 
better  progress. 

New  tools.  —  If,  in  the  course  of  making  a  new  model, 
a  new  tool  is  to  be  used,,  or  a  new  process  performed,  it 
should  be  made  the  occasion  of  practice  before  being  ap- 
plied to  the  model  in  hand.  The  size  and  the  combina- 


IN   WOODWORK   AND   CARPENTRY  5 

tion  of  constructive  elements  should  be  the  basis  of  the 
progression,  rather  than  the  inventing  of  models  that 
demand  the  use  of  tools  in  a  certain  sequence.  After 
the  student  has  learned  to  use  the  commonest  tools  well, 
he  will  have  little  trouble  with  the  tools  that  are  used  only 
occasionally. 

Importance  of  the  model.  -  -  This  must  not  be  con- 
strued as  meaning  that  the  model  is  the  important  thing. 
It  is  of  little  importance,  except  as  it  may  indicate  the  care, 
thought,  and  progress  of  the  student  who  performs  the 
work.  The  model  should  be  considered  by  the  teacher 
simply  as  the  means  of  interesting  the  pupil,  and  of  giving 
him  an  incentive  to  perform  the  processes  that  involve  the 
use  of  certain  tools.  The  student,  however,  looks  upon 
the  model  as  the  chief  end  of  the  work,  —  a  conception, 
which,  unfortunately,  seems  prevalent  among  nearly  all 
those  also  who  are  not  directly  connected  with  school 
work,  despite  all  that  has  been  written  and  said  upon  the 
end  and  aim  of  manual  training  since  its  inception. 

Individual  work.  —  It  is  not  the  plan  of  "  Elements 
of  Woodwork"  to  lay  out  a  course  or  a  series  of  models 
for  the  use  of  students  from  their  earliest  ventures  into 
manual  training,  as  no  course  can  be  planned  which  is 
the  best  for  all  students.  A  student  with  natural  aptitude 
for  tool  work  will  complete  easily  a  model  that  another 
of  the  same  class  may  not  be  able  to  make  at  all;  thus  the 
naturally  skillful  student  loses  the  opportunity  for  advance- 
ment and  development. 

Many  teachers  have  not  the  inclination,  and  others  have 
not  the  technical  knowledge,  to  do  well  the  individual 
work  that  is  necessary  if  each  student's  work  is  planned 
so  that  he  can  work  to  the  best  advantage.  To  do  indi- 


6  KING'S   HANDBOOK    FOR    TEACHERS 

vidual  work  so  that  each  student  may  receive  the  best 
results,  even  though  the  student  is  naturally  "  handy " 
and  likes  to  work  with  tools,  requires  that  the  teacher 
shall  have  a  broader  knowledge  than  can  be  acquired  by 
a  short  course  at  a  teachers'  training  school.  The  instruc- 
tion of  a  poorly  prepared  teacher,  if  he  departs  from  the 
course  with  which  he  is  familiar,  results  almost  invariably 
in  work  which  is  not  built  upon  correct  principles  of  con- 
struction. It  is  not  reasonable  to  expect,  as  a  rule,  that 
a  teacher  can  secure  from  his  class  better  work  than  he 
can  do  himself;  thus  the  results  are  false  ideas  of  construc- 
tion and  poor  and  inaccurate  methods. 

Again,  in  many  schools  where  the  teachers  realize  their 
dependence  upon  one  particular  series  of  models,  there  is 
an  ironbound  course  through  which  all  students  are  re- 
quired to  go,  model  after  model,  in  the  same  sequence, 
regardless  of  the  different  degrees  of  natural  ability  that 
must  exist.  In  consequence,  the  development  of  the  in- 
dividual student's  natural  abilities  is  but  little  assisted, 
and  the  opportunity  of  promoting  his  originality  and 
initiative  is  too  often  ignored  entirely.  This  statement 
may  seem  severe  in  its  reflections  upon  some  teachers,  and 
it  is  so,  intentionally;  but  it  applies  only  to  those  who  are 
deliberately  managing  their  classes  to  make  their  work 
easier,  regardless  of  the  effect  upon  their  students,  and  who 
could  do  better  if  they  chose  to  take  the  trouble,  and 
to  those  who,  with  a  slight  smattering  of  knowledge,  try  to 
teach  manual  training  because  positions  in  this  work  are 
obtained  with  less  difficulty,  and  often  are  better  paid, 
than  are  those  in  the  ordinary  branches  of  academic 
work.  The  statement  does  not  apply,  however,  to  teachers 
who  are  in  the  employ  of  a  school  board  whose  only  ideal  of 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  7 

manual  training  is  that  the  students  shall  make  some- 
thing that  will  please  the  eye  of  the  board,  and  of  the 
occasional  visitor,  in  order  to  prove  that  their  school 
system  is  up  to  date,  and  who  require  the  teacher  to 
handle  with  a  meager  equipment,  and  in  rooms  poorly 
lighted  and  ventilated,  a  tilass  so  large  that  it  is  impossible 
to  conduct  it  properly.  The  teacher  of  manual  training 
who  has  to  work  under  these  conditions  is  obliged  to  follow 
a  more  or  less  rigid  course,  since  the  students  must  be 
handled  as  a  whole  to  the  greatest  extent  possible. 

To  do  acceptable  individual  work  in  the  grades,  a  teacher 
should  not  have  more  than  twenty  in  one  class;  in  high 
schools,  and  in  technical  and  industrial  schools,  where  the 
students  are  older  and,  in  most  cases,  have  had  elementary 
work,  the  classes  may  be  larger,  a  competent  teacher 
being  able  to  handle  as  many  as  thirty  with  satisfactory 
results.  In  a  large  class  students  may  be  divided  into 
squads,  each  of  which  works  upon  a  model  suited  to  its 
ability,  thereby  making  it  possible  to  do  more  nearly 
individual  work.  In  order  to  arrange  the  squads  to  best 
advantage,  time,  judgment,  and  a  thorough  knowledge 
of  each  pupil's  capacity  is,  of  course,  necessary. 

Selection  of  models.  —  A  well-equipped  manual- training 
room  should  have  blueprints  or  drawings  of  a  large  num- 
ber of  different  designs  and  models,  suitable  for  the  various 
grades  taught,  as  a  reserve  upon  which  to  call  when  the 
original  ideas  of  the  students  are  not  forthcoming  or  are 
too  elaborate  to  answer  the  purpose. 

Many  suggestions  for  models  may  be  procured  from 
published  bulletins  of  various  schools,  and  from  stores 
dealing  in  supplies  for  manual-training  schools,  though 
much  skill  is  necessary  upon  the  part  of  the  teacher  to 


8  KING'S   HANDBOOK    FOR   TKACIIKHS 

obtain  original  ideas  from  the  students,  based  upon  the 
suggestions  secured  from  these  sources. 

To  assist  in  the  development  of  original  ideas,  the  teacher 
should  persuade  the  student  to  design  continually;  not  only 
for  his  own  work,  but  to  stimulate  his  creative  faculties. 
The  teacher  should  suggest  only,  aiding  the  student  to 
keep  within  the  bounds  of  difficulty,  and  always  insisting 
upon  the  utmost  simplicity  of  design  and  construction. 
The  model  the  student  selects  should  be  one  that  he  will 
feel  is  worthy  of  his  best  energies,  but  not  so  difficult  that 
it  cannot  be  made  well,  nor  so  intricate  or  large  that  he 
will  become  tired  of  it  before  its  completion. 

In  the  ability  to  advise  in  the  selection  of  work  for  his 
pupils,  and  in  discriminating  between  individuals,  lie  the 
most  important  qualifications  of  the  manual-training 
teacher;  and  the  most  difficult  part  of  this  aspect  of  his 
work  is  selecting  that  which  will  bring  out  the  various 
forms  or  shapes,  and  which  will  include  the  use  of  different 
tools  to  furnish  change  of  exercise  for  the  muscles  in  the 
several  positions  in  which  tools  must  be  used.  There 
should  be  frequent  alternations  of  straight  and  curved 
lines,  that  the  student  may  learn  to  know  and  to  detect 
true  form  and  the  laws  that  govern  it,  and  that  he  may 
receive  such  training  of  the  eye  as  will  enable  him  to 
detect  any  deviation  from  the  desired  form. 

Working  drawings.  —  Before  beginning  work  upon  a 
model,  each  student  should  make  a  working  drawing  of 
it,  not  only  to  familiarize  himself  with  the  details,  but  that 
he  may  receive  a  drill  in  making  working  drawings  and 
working  from  them,  which  will  be  of  great  practical  use  to 
him,  and  that  he  may  learn  the  value  of  drawing  as  a 
means  of  expression. 


IX    WOODWORK   AND   CARPENTRY  9 

If  the  student  originates  a  design,  he  may  need  help  in 
putting  all  that  is  necessary  upon  paper,  but  if  he  is  work- 
ing from  a  model  already  made,  he  should  be  required  to 
work  with  as  little  assistance  as  possible. 

Stock  cutting.  —  A  stock  list  should  be  made  out  for 
every  model,  each  student  working  from  the  plan  that  he 
has  drawn.  After  the  stock  list  has  been  made  out,  and 
passed  upon  by  the  teacher,  the  student  should  lay  out 
the  pieces  as  they  are  to  be  cut  from  the  board,  but  the 
cutting  should  not  begin  until  the  teacher  has  approved  of 
the  method  of  getting  out  the  pieces;  otherwise  much 
valuable  material  may  be  wasted. 

Many  teachers  prepare  the  pieces  from  which  the  models 
are  to  be  made,  before  the  class  meets.  This  method  has 
economy  to  recommend  it,  both  of  material  and  of  the  time 
spent  in  cutting  the  stock  in  class,  but  with  much  of  the 
work,  these  advantages  will  not  compensate  for  the  loss 
of  the  drill  received  by  the  student  in  planning  the  most 
economical  way  of  cutting  his  own  material. 


CHAPTER  II 
TEACHING  HINTS.  —  CARPENTRY  AND  JOINERY 

IT  will  be  noticed  that  the  third  volume  of  the  series, 
"  Constructive  Carpentry/'  deals  with  the  working  of  rough 
lumber,  or  construction.  It  is  a  quite  prevalent  belief  that 
because  rough  lumber  is  handled,  the  work  must  neces- 
sarily be  rough,  and  therefore  require  little  skill.  On  the 
contrary,  the  utmost  skill,  and  the  greatest  knowledge,  is 
required  in  the  framing  of  a  building,  as  a  framer  should 
understand  all  parts  of  a  structure,  and  have  knowledge  of 
as  many  different  kinds  of  work  as  possible. 

Relation  of  Chapters  I  and  II.  -  -  The  subjects  dis- 
cussed in  the  previous  chapter  may  be  applied  with  equal 
force  to  the  teaching  of  carpentry,  since  the  future  work- 
man will  pass  over  much  the  same  ground  in  his  elementary 
work  as  does  the  student  of  manual  training. 

Theory.  —  Every  student  in  carpentry  should  be  re- 
quired to  look  up  in  the  various  books  and  periodicals 
to  which  he  has  access,  the  theoretical  aspects  of  each 
topic  outlined  in  the  textbook.  These  books  of  reference 
should  be  listed  by  the  teacher,  who  should  familiarize 
himself  with  the  matter  in  them  and  catalogue  the  parts 
that  he  needs,  before  assigning  subjects  to  the  students 
for  study. 

Joints  and  exercises.  —  In  "  Elements  of  Construction" 
the  exercises  in  joints  form  an  important  part  of  the  work 

10 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  11 

laid  out  for  the  student  who  intends  to  complete  the  course 
in  carpentry,  since  they  illustrate  the  different  forms  of 
construction.  The  teacher  should  see  that  each  pupil 
acquires  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  principles  and  the 
uses  of  each  tool,  and  at  intervals  should  assign  a  written 
exercise  reviewing  the  work  passed  over. 

It  is  not  necessary  that  every  student  should  work  out 
every  problem,  but  each  member  of  the  class  should  solve 
different  ones  according  to  his  ability  and  needs.  The  con- 
struction and  use  of  each  tool  should,  however,  be  illus- 
trated to  the  whole  class,  and  its  accompanying  exercises 
explained  in  such  a  way  that  each  student  may  be  able  to 
give  an  intelligent  demonstration  of  the  same.  The  joints 
and  the  use  of  the  tools  involved,  should  also  be  made  the 
subjects  of  written  exercises,  the  writing  of  which  will  aid 
the  student  in  expressing  himself  intelligently. 

Besides  making  the  joints,  one  or  more  supplementary 
models  should  be  made  which  will  include  as  far  as  possible 
the  principles  of  construction  illustrated  by  the  preceding 
exercises.  As  in  the  manual-training  classes,  the  student 
should  design  his  own  supplementary  models,  assisted  by 
the  teacher. 

If  the  teacher  thinks  it  advisable,  the  exercises  may  be 
entirely  dispensed  with  in  the  work  of  individuals  who  have 
a  high  degree  of  natural  aptitude  in  the  use  of  tools,  and 
the  supplementary  work  may  be  substituted.  The  extent 
to  which  this  may  be  done  depends  much  upon  the  teacher's 
judgment  and  tact,  since  the  students  generally  do  not 
enjoy  the  exercises  so  much  as  the  work  to  which  they  lead, 
and  unless  the  teacher  feels  that  the  reasons  for  this  sort  of 
discrimination  are  exceedingly  well  founded  and  apparent, 
a  great  difference  should  not  be  made.  As  the  class  in 


12  KING'S   HANDBOOK   FOR.   TEACHERS 

carpentry  in  an  industrial  school  consists  often  of  students 
of  a  wide  range  of  ages,  the  above  difference  in  the  work 
frequently  may  be  carried  out  with  profit  to  the  individuals. 

Construction.  —  At  the  proper  place  in  the  course, 
the  students  should  build  a  flight  of  stairs,  making  them 
one  quarter  or  one  half  size.  This  model  flight  should 
contain  all  the  section  posts,  and  the  different  sections 
should  be  constructed  by  various  methods. 

In  teaching  the  construction  of  a  frame  building,  a  model 
should  be  built  upon  a  small  scale,  as  in  stair  building, 
several  students  working  upon  it.  One  as  large  as  prac- 
ticable may  be  built  the  first  time,  and  the  same  material 
used  by  successive  classes;  the  next  house  may  be  made 
somewhat  smaller  in  its  dimensions,  if  desired,  but  if  the 
same  material  is  used  in  different  parts  of  the  house, 
some  of  the  longer  pieces  will  have  to  be  made  new  each 
time,  and  as  there  is  always  a  demand  for  small  pieces  in 
a  manual-training  class,  there  will  not  be  much  waste. 
Another  satisfactory  method  is  to  require  each  student 
to  build  a  small  house,  using  the  scale  of  3"  to  1',  which 
allows  a  2"  x  4"  piece  to  be  \"  x  1",  and  in  measuring  the 
lengths  of  pieces,  the  scale  of  1"  to  1'.  This  is  also  good 
practice  for  the  student  in  working  from  one  scale  to  another. 

The  house  built  should  contain  all  the  problems  used  in 
building  a  house  with  square  angles,  —  a  house  with  an 
ell  or  addition  upon  the  side  or  back  joined  to  the  main 
house  with  a  valley  in  the  roof,  and  hips  upon  the  corners 
of  the  main  house,  as  described  in  Topic  53  E,  "  Construc- 
tive Carpentry,"  will  contain  the  most  essential  framing 
problems  that  the  carpenter  has  to  solve. 

The  blackboard.  —  Abundance  of  blackboard  space  is 
an  essential  part  of  the  equipment  of  a  room  in  which 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  13 

carpentry,  and  in  fact  any  form  of  tool  work,  is  taught; 
and  it  should  be  used  freely  in  demonstrations  by  means  of 
diagrams,  since  the  students  should  become  familiar  with 
methods  of  sketching  and  with  working  from  sketches, 
and  also  should  acquire  facility  in  explaining  their  own 
thoughts  graphically,  as  this  is  an  important  part  of  the 
training  of  a  workman. 

Treatment  of  facts.  —  Facts  in  manual  training,  as  in 
any  other  subject,  should  be  impressed  upon  the  student 
by  comparisons,  frequent  reviews,  tests,  and  examinations. 
Skill  in  the  use  of  the  gauge,  ripsaw,  cutting-off  saw,  and  the 
planes  should  be  acquired  by  continuous  drill  upon  waste 
pieces  of  wood.  After  control  of  the  planes  has  been 
gained,  the  student  should  be  required  to  put  his  smooth- 
ing plane  in  order  and  to  smooth  a  piece  of  hard,  cross- 
grained  wood  to  a  surface,  planing  either  way  of  the  grain. 
This  will  impress  upon  him  the  fact  that  although  a  piece 
of  wood  may  be  ever  so  knurly  or  crossgrained,  it  is 
possible  to  plane  it  perfectly  smooth,  if  the  work  is  done 
skillfully. 

The  teacher  should  require  the  students  to  locate,  upon 
buildings  within  easy  reach  of  the  school,  different  forms 
of  construction,  such  as  finish  and  details,  and  should  ex- 
plain these  forms  to  the  class  by  diagrams,  making  the 
exercise  the  basis  of  instruction  upon  various  applications 
of  the  same  principle. 

As  little  as  possible  should  be  told  the  students;  instead, 
by  drawing  out  what  they  have  previously  learned,  and 
by  applying  it,  the  teacher  should  make  them  find  answers 
to  their  own  questions. 

Written  exercises.  -  -  The  course  in  carpentry  should  be 
so  arranged  that  the  written  exercises  may  be  required 


14  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

at  times  which  will  not  interfere  seriously  with  similar 
duties  of  the  students  in  other  departments  of  the  school, 
and  at  regular  stated  periods,  in  order  that  the  student 
may  plan  for  a  definite  amount  of  work  to  be  done 
each  week.  The  teacher  should  be  careful  not  to  load  the 
students  intermittently,  as  that  has  a  bad  effect  upon  all 
of  their  school  work.  Frequent  short  written  exercises, 
submitted  weekly,  are  better  than  long  tedious  essays, 
which  the  average  student  will  slight  to  the  greatest  extent 
possible.  The  material  included  under  the  different  topics 
will  offer  numerous  suggestions  for  outside  reading  and 
research,  which  the  teacher  may  require  of  the  student. 

Each  student  should  have  a  notebook  devoted  entirely 
to  carpentry,  in  which  should  be  placed  all  notes,  written 
exercises,  and  such  information  as  may  be  gathered  from 
discussions  in  the  class  room.  Sketches  of  details  of  con- 
struction should  be  neatly  drawn.  These  notebooks  should 
be  kept  in  the  schoolroom,  and  frequently  examined  by 
the  teacher  and  corrected  by  the  pupils. 

Position.  -  -  The  teacher  should  insist  upon  each  stu- 
dent's maintaining  a  proper  position  while  at  work  at 
the  bench,  as  bad  habits  acquired  at  this  time  are  apt  to  be 
lasting,  with  the  result  that  there  are  many  round-should- 
ered or  otherwise  deformed  workmen.  The  student  should 
acquire  the  habit  of  bending  from  the  hips  instead  of  from 
the  shoulders;  this  will  assist  in  preserving  an  erect 
carriage,  while  if  the  other  habit  is  acquired,  he  will  be 
permanently  round-shouldered  and  hollow-chested  before 
middle  age. 

The  majority  of  the  students  will  sit  down  if  there  is  the 
slightest  excuse  for  so  doing;  the  teacher  should  prevent 
this,  as  it  is  a  great  incentive  to  laziness  and  to  careless 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  15 

habits  of  work.  Drawing  and  certain  kinds  of  small 
work  may  sometimes  be  performed  more  advantageously 
in  a  sitting  position,  but  aside  from  drawing  there  is  little 
work  in  this  series  which  the  student  can  do  as  well  while 
sitting. 

Students  generally  are  apt  to  assume  awkward  positions 
of  the  feet  when  first  attempting  bench  work,  but  if  the 
teacher  sees  to  it  that  this  habit  is  remedied,  the  student 
will  in  a  short  time  naturally  take  the  position  in  which  he 
can  work  to  the  best  advantage. 

Shingling.  —  In  teaching  shingling,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  a  model  roof  upon  which  to  work;  this  should  in- 
clude at  least  two  hips,  a  valley,  and  a  gable,  in  order  to 
illustrate  the  different  methods  of  shingling  the  various 
parts  of  a  roof. 

Arithmetic.  -  -  The  questions  in  arithmetic  should  be 
divided  into  lessons  of  convenient  length,  and  assigned  to 
students  at  regular  stated  intervals;  they  should  be  so 
planned  as  not  to  conflict  with  their  regular  work  in  math- 
ematics. In  the  solution  of  these  problems,  the  shortest 
and  most  practical  methods  should  be  used,  the  student 
being  allowed  to  use  his  own  methods,  provided  they  are 
sound  and  can  be  demonstrated,  even  though  they  may 
not  be  found  in  the  textbook  in  use  in  the  school. 

In  practical  work  the  workman  falls  into  short  cuts  of 
doing  any  arithmetic  that  may  be  necessary,  though  of 
course  the  methods  he  uses  have  to  be  sound  in  order  to 
give  correct  results;  it  is  to  develop  facility  in  using 
figures  in  the  most  economical  way,  therefore,  that  these 
questions  in  arithmetic  are  given. 

The  phraseology  in  stating  the  questions  is  that  used 
by  carpenters  in  speaking  of  their  work;  the  explanatory 


16  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

notes  accompanying  the  questions  and  the  glossary  in 
"  Constructive  Carpentry  "  will  be  found  of  assistance. 

If  necessary,  square  and  cube  root  may  be  taught  from 
any  good  textbook;  in  fractions,  however,  the  student 
should  have  had,  before  entering  the  work,  sufficient  in- 
struction to  give  him  a  good  working  knowledge  of  this 
subject,  the  questions  being  intended  simply  to  famil- 
iarize him  with  the  daily  problems  of  the  carpenter.  The 
use  of  tables  of  circumferences  and  areas  of  circles  also 
should  be  taught,  but  as  these  are  published  in  so  many 
manufacturers'  catalogues  and  in  other  easily  accessible 
places,  they  are  not  made  a  part  of  this  series.  Formu- 
las may  be  taught  by  the  use  of  algebraic  symbols,  which 
are  not  at  all  difficult  to  master,  as  any  student  having 
the  above-mentioned  knowledge  of  arithmetic,  and  know- 
ing how  to  work  square  root,  can  by  a  little  application 
solve  the  formulas  given  in  this  book,  and  also  those 
published  in  trade  papers. 

The  steel  square.  -  -  This  part  of  the  work  requires  the 
closest  application  and  the  most  comprehensive  knowledge 
of  construction.  A  thorough  drill  in  the  use  of  the  steel 
square  should  be  given  in  the  different  problems,  which  will 
demand  the  construction  of  model  roofs,  working  to  the 
scale  of  1"  to  1',  as  previously  described.  Applying  this 
method,  a  roof  18'  x  30'  would  be  18"  x  30"  at  the  outside 
of  the  plate,  which  is  a  convenient  size  for  this  purpose. 

There  are  other  ways  of  obtaining  pitches,  angles, 
and  lengths  of  rafters,  easier  in  some  instances  than  those 
taught  in  this  series,  and  many  carpenters  have  a  rule  for 
each  separate  pitch ;  but  this  is  confusing  to  a  class,  there- 
fore the  formulas  given  in  "  Constructive  Carpentry  "  are 
adaptable  to  roofs  of  all  pitches  and  dimensions. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  17 

Advanced  class.  —  The  teacher  of  the  advanced  class 
should  take  his  students  to  visit  buildings  in  various  stages 
of  construction,  and  should  repeat  the  visit  periodically 
as  the  work  progresses,  requiring  the  students  to  hand  in 
written  exercises  treating  of  the  foundations,  framing, 
finishing,  painting,  heating,  etc.  The  pupils  should  notice v 
also  the  progress  of  the  building  in  a  given  time,  the  num- 
ber of  men  employed,  the  peculiarities  of  construction  or 
arrangement,  and  any  feature  which  is  out  of  the  ordinary, 
or  which  is  intended  to  adapt  the  building  to  some  special 
purpose. 

The  class  may  all  write  upon  the  same  subject,  or  each 
one  may  take  a  special  part.  When  the  papers  are  read 
before  the  class,  encourage  criticism  and  discussion. 

Use  of  tools.  —  As  soon  as  the  class  begins  upon  its  first 
work,  the  use  of  each  tool,  its  construction,  and  any  new 
process  or  materials  should  be  made  the  subject  of  a  short 
talk  and  demonstration;  this,  in  fact,  should  be  the  pro- 
gram when  any  new  tool  is  used  for  the  first  time,  using 
the  topics  in  "  Elements  of  Woodwork"  or  "  Elements  of 
Construction "  as  the  basis  of  such  an  exercise.  The 
teacher  should  also  guide  the  pupils  to  further  research 
upon  the  subject  of  tools.  The  methods  of  using  and 
adjusting  tools  for  different  woods  and  for  the  various 
kinds  of  work  should  be  discussed  fully,  each  student  being 
required  to  follow  the  teacher  step  by  step  with  his  own 
tools,  as  far  as  it  is  practicable  to  do  so. 

Tendencies  to  be  guarded  against.  -  -  The  teacher  will 
save  himself  much  trouble,  and  insure  better  work  upon  the 
part  of  the  class,  if  he  insists  upon  the  use  of  the  knife  in 
marking  all  places  where  a  close  fit  is  desired.  Most 
students  will  use  the  pencil  in  places  where  only  a  knife 


18  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

should  be  used;  consequently,  it  is  wise  to  take  the  pencils 
away  from  all  the  students  when  they  are  doing  work  which 
requires  accuracy,  as  it  is  the  most  peaceable  way  to  pre- 
vent their  use.  It  takes  time,  and  often  involves  as  well  the 
destruction  of  considerable  work,  before  the  class  realizes 
that  there  is  but  one  point  which  is  accurate,  and  that  the 
slightest  deviation  from  that  point  results  in  poor  work. 
The  indiscriminate  use  of  the  pencil  also  should  be  pre- 
vented, or  it  will  in  many  places  cause  a  decided  blemish. 
Many  students  will  not  hesitate  to  draw  their  pencils 
across  the  surface  of  a  nicely  smoothed  and  sandpapered 
piece  of  wood,  but  are  surprised  to  discover  that  perhaps 
they  may  have  to  work  half  an  hour  to  resmooth  the  wood 
and  remove  the  results  of  the  thoughtlessness  of  a  second. 
The  best  way  is  to  bar  the  use  of  the  lead  pencil  as  much 
as  possible. 

Another  peculiar  characteristic  of  students  in  general,  is 
that  they  will  not  use  a  plane,  if  a  rasp,  sandpaper,  spoke- 
shave,  or  any  other  tool  can  be  made  to  answer.  The 
majority  will  at  first  prefer  to  work  with  a  piece  of  sand- 
paper for  half  an  hour,  when  a  couple  of  minutes'  work  with 
a  smoothing  plane  followed  by  sandpaper  will  accomplish 
the  desired  result  in  a  much  easier  and  more  satisfactory 
manner.  Therefore  the  teacher  should  watch  to  see  that 
the  plane  is  used  and  all  necessary  cutting  done,  and 
should  inspect  the  work  carefully,  before  the  scraper  or 
sandpaper  is  allowed  to  touch  it,  as  the  surface  of  a  piece 
of  wood  filled  with  the  grit  from  sandpaper  will  quickly 
dull  the  edge  of  any  tool  that  touches  it  afterward. 

Smoothing  and  sandpapering.  —  Sandpaper  should  be 
torn  into  pieces  of  convenient  size,  say  about  one  eighth  of 
a  sheet,  and  kept  by  the  teacher,  who  should  give  it  out 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  19 

as  it  is  needed,  requiring  that  all  worn  pieces  should  be 
returned  to  him.  In  this  way  the  teacher  may  keep  track 
of  the  entire  supply,  and  be  sure  that  none  is  used  before 
the  work  is  ready  for  it.  After  the  class  has  learned  the 
danger  of  using  sandpaper  indiscriminately,  such  vigilance 
will  be  unnecessary. 

Most  students  in  working  upon  a  model  that  cannot  be 
smoothed  after  it  is  put  together,  will  need  to  be  watched 
carefully,  or  the  model  will  have  to  be  taken  apart  before 
it  can  be  smoothed.  The  best  results  are  obtained  by  an 
ironbound  rule  that  two  pieces  shall  not  be  fastened  to- 
gether until  the  teacher  has  said  that  they  are  ready.  Do 
not  hesitate  to  require  that  an  entire  model  shall  be  de- 
stroyed in  order  to  enforce  a  matter  of  this  sort;  this  may 
have  to  be  done  once  in  a  while,  but  rarely  twice  with 
members  of  the  same  class. 

Saw  filing.  —  Saw  filing  should  extend  throughout  the 
entire  course  after  the  first  lessons,  and  as  much  oppor- 
tunity as  possible  should  be  given  for  each  student  to 
obtain  experience,  as  a  sufficient  degree  of  skill  can  be 
acquired  only  by  careful  practice.  The  students  should 
be  encouraged  to  bring  saws  from  home,  or  those  of  their 
neighbors,  since  where  all  the  students  use  the  same 
equipment  of  saws,  it  is  hardly  fair  that  these  should  be 
kept  in  order  by  any  one  but  an  expert. 

Gluing.  —  Set  apart  one  place  in  the  shop  for  gluing. 
Keep  handscrews  and  clamps  there,  and  insist  that  all 
gluing  shall  be  done  in  that  place,  otherwise  glue  will  be 
dropped  and  smeared  in  all  parts  of  the  shop.  Do  not  allow 
glue  to  be  used  so  near  the  end  of  the  class  period  that  the 
work  cannot  be  done  properly,  as  some  students  will  get 
the  glue  on,  and,  if  the  bell  rings,  will  go  off  and  leave  it, 


20  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS. 

thus  destroying  the  work,  if  the  teacher  does  not  discover 
it  in  time  to  correct  the  matter. 

Estimating.  -  -  The  teacher  should  select  a  small,  simple 
house  for  the  students  to  estimate  upon.  He  should 
either  secure  a  copy  of  the  original  plans,  make  a  set  him- 
self, or  have  the  students  make  a  set  as  part  of  their 
mechanical  drawing  work.  These  plans  should  be  used  in 
taking  off  quantities. 

If  possible,  a  copy  of  the  original  stock  bill  and  esti- 
mates should  be  secured,  as  they  may  be  used  for  com- 
parison with  the  work  of  the  students.  If  this  is  not  possi- 
ble, the  teacher  should  make  a  stock  bill  and  estimate  the 
cost,  using  the  data  given  in  "  Inside  Finishing,"  Chapter 
VII,  and  the  local  prices. 

A  careful  study  and  review  of  this  work  is  essential,  all 
the  class  working  upon  the  same  house. 

Estimating  of  small  details,  cases,  or  any  convenient 
pieces  of  work  should  be  practiced  through  the  entire 
course  in  carpentry. 


CHAPTER  III 

EQUIPMENT  AND  SUPPLIES 

The  equipment. -- The  equipment  for  the  woodwork, 
or  carpenter's,  shop  consists  of  a  complete  set  of  the  usual 
cutting  tools  for  each  boy,  which  he  should  be  required  to 
keep  in  order  and  at  all  times  ready  for  use  or  inspection. 
This  method  of  equipping  a  shop  requires  that  each  bench 
should  have  a  set  of  drawers  or  a  closet  in  which  the 
tools  of  each  student  may  be  kept  under  lock  and  key. 

Aside  from  the  cutting  tools,  are  the  try-square,  ruk, 
hammer,  etc.,  which  need  no  special  care.  In  some  schools 
these  are  included  in  each  student's  equipment,  but  in 
others  there  is  one  set  of  these  for  each  bench,  which  is 
used  by  all  the  students  who  use  the  bench,  the  edge  tools 
being  kept  guardedly  for  each  individual  student. 

Besides  the  bench  equiqment,  there  should  be  a  set  of 
tools  for  general  use,  which  should  include  all  the  different 
sizes  of  bits,  chisels,  etc.,  and  other  tools  which  will  be  used 
only  occasionally.  These  should  be  kept  in  racks  which 
they  will  just  fill,  so  that  the  teacher  may  with  a  glance 
detect  a  vacant  space,  and  hold  the  class  until  the  missing 
tool  is  in  its  place. 

Economical  equipment.  —  In  schdols  where  it  is  neces- 
sary to  use  economy  in  purchasing  the  equipment,  there 
may  be  a  set  of  tools  for  each  bench,  which  will  be  used 
by  all  the  classes.  This  method  of  equipping  a  shop  should 

21 


22  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

be  avoided  if  it  is  possible,  as  it  is  far  better  that  each 
student  should  have  his  own  tools,  for  which  he  may  be 
held  responsible,  which  is  practicable  to  but  a  limited  ex- 
tent, if  all  classes  use  the  same  equipment. 

Comparisons  of  tools.  —  We  will  discuss  here  the  rea- 
sons why  certain  forms  of  tools  have  been  recommended 
instead  of  others. 

The  iron  planes  are  listed  because  they  are  easier  to  ad- 
just and  to  use.  A  wooden  plane  is  heavy  and  clumsy, 
and  for  young  students  especially  unsuitable,  as  their 
hands  are  not  large  enough  to  grasp  and  to  control  it 
properly.  Another  advantage  of  iron  planes  is  that  they 
are  kept  in  order  more  easily,  as  the  face  holds  its  shape 
under  conditions  which  would  cause  enough  change  to  the 
face  of  a  wooden  plane  to  require  its  re  jointing.  An  iron 
plane  also  lies  down,  or  "  hugs  the  wood"  closer  than  does 
a  wooden  plane,  and  is  for  that  reason  preferred  by  many. 
Equally  as  good  work  may  be  done  with  one  type  of  plane 
as  with  the  other. 

The  knuckle-joint  block  plane  is  better  designed  than 
are  some  other  forms,  because  the  lever  that  keeps  the  iron 
in  place  is  more  positive  in  its  action,  and  holds  the 
iron  more  firmly.  If  the  plane  falls  from  the  bench,  or  is 
dropped,  the  grip,  or  the  top  of  the  cap  lever,  is  not  so 
apt  to  break  as  if  it  were  of  one  piece  of  light  cast  iron. 

If  some  manufacturer  should  make  a  form  of  gauge 
which  had  no  graduations  upon  it,  he  would  find  a  ready 
sale  for  it  among  manual- training  schools,  because  unless 
the  scratcher  .is  exactly  opposite  the  beginning  of  the  grad- 
uations, the  entire  rule  is  inaccurate.  However  accurately 
the  point  may  be  placed  originally,  it  will  be  out  of  place 
after  the  gauge  has  been  in  use  a  short  time  and  different 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  23 

students  have  endeavored  to  satisfy  their  curiosity  regard- 
ing its  construction. 

The  form  of  bitbrace  in  which  the  jaws  are  tightened  by 
a  thumb-screw  instead  of  by  a  grip  nut  is  best  adapted  to 
the  use  of  manual-training  classes,  for  the  reason  that  the 
only  part  to  be  lost  is  the  screw  that  sets  up  the  jaws.  In 
the  common  form  of  brace,  —  that  which  grips  the  bit  by 
the  tightening  of  a  grip  nut  which  forces  the  jaws  together 
until  the  bit  is  held  firmly,  —  there  are  three  parts,  which 
are  apt  to  be  lost  by  the  attempts  of  the  students  to  study 
the  tool's  construction.  Bitbraces  of  small  swing  should 
be  selected,  as  they  are  better  adapted  to  the  small  bits 
that  are  generally  used  in  manual-training  classes,  though 
there  should  be  two  or  more  braces  of  the  larger  sizes  for 
occasional  use. 

In  purchasing  try-squares,  secure,  if  possible,  those  upon 
which  there  are  no  graduations,  because  the  average  stu- 
dent will  use  his  try-square  as  a  rule,  which  is  awkward, 
especially  after  the  tool  has  been  in  use  a  considerable 
time,  when  it  is  much  more  difficult  to  read  the  marks 
than  when  it  is  new,  and  at  all  times  it  is  more  difficult 
than  to  read  a  rule. 

A  24' '  straight  rule  is  better  than  a  folding  rule  for  sev- 
eral reasons;  the  chief  of  which  is,  perhaps,  that  it  is 
not  easy  for  the  student  to  drop  a  straight  rule  into  his 
pocket  and  carry  it  off.  Neither  is  there  the  temptation 
with  a  straight  rule,  that  there  is  with  a  four-  or  two-fold 
rule,  to  see  how  far  it  can  be  bent  without  breaking,  nor  is 
it  so  apt  to  be  broken  by  falling  open  on  the  floor  and 
being  stepped  upon. 

The  type  of  auger  bit  known  as  the  "  Jennings  "  is  per- 
haps the  most  satisfactory  for  the  use  of  manual-training 


24  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

schools,  as  the  shape  of  its  worm,  its  cutters,  and  the 
smoothness  of  the  finish  of  the  twist,  in  the  best  makes, 
all  aid  in  making  it  smooth-running  and  clean-cutting. 
The  cheaper  grades  of  the  tool  are  not  satisfactory  in 
finish  or  in  ease  of  working,  nor  will  they  stand  boring 
more  than  a  very  few  holes  in  oak  or  in  other  hard  woods. 

The  bell-faced  claw  hammer  is  more  satisfactory  than  the 
older  flat-faced  pattern.  Its  face  being  slightly  convex,  it 
is  not  so  apt  to  bruise  the  wood  badly  if  the  nail  is  missed, 
and  in  outside  finishing  and  in  common  work  the  nail  may 
be  driven  a  little  below  the  surface  of  the  wood  without 
the  use  of  a  nail  set.  In  general,  the  older  pattern  has  not 
the  long  neck  of  the  bell-faced  hammer,  which  extends 
upon  the  handle  far  enough  to  be  valuable  in  strengthen- 
ing the  connection  between  them,  and  which  allows  a 
much  greater  strain  upon  the  handle  in  pulling  a  nail  than 
if  the  neck  were  not  a  part  of  the  head.  More  skill  is 
required  in  using  a  bell-faced  hammer  than  one  of  the 
flat-faced  type. 

For  a  manual-training  class,  the  divisions  of  the  edges  of 
the  steel  square  are  not  important,  as  the  use  of  the  tool 
will  be  that  of  a  large  try-square,  but  if  ihe  class  is  studying 
roof  construction,  it  will  be  of  great  advantage  if  the 
squares  have  the  octagon,  brace,  and  lumber  measures  on 
them,  and  still  more  advantageous  if  one  edge  is  divided 
into  12ths  of  an  inch  which  will  be  used  as  a  scale  of  I"  to 
1',  in  laying  out  the  angles  and  lengths  of  rafters,  braces, 
and  other  parts  of  a  building. 

Countersinks  that  may  be  taken  apart  and  sharpened 
are  preferred  by  most  workmen.  The  teacher  should  be 
careful  that  the  students  do  not  use  a  wooden  countersink 
upon  metal,  as  it  will  be  destroyed.  The  lightning  counter- 


IN  WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  25 

sink  is  made  to  stand  any  metal  but  tempered  steel,  and 
works  well  upon  wood. 

The  turning  or  frame  saws  are  to  be  preferred  to  the  com- 
pass saws  for  cutting  curves,  because  they  are  not  nearly  so 
liable  to  catch  in  the  wood  and  break.  They  can  be  turned 
around  a  very  much  smaller  curve  than  can  the  compass 
saw,  though  of  course  they  are  not  so  efficient  for  some 
purposes. 

In  regard  to  the  10"  and  12"  handscrews,  often  it  would 
be  better  for  a  great  deal  of  the  work  if  smaller  handscrews 
could  be  used,  but  they  would  soon  be  broken,  as  the  stu- 
dents almost  invariably  apply  all  the  strength  that  they  can, 
which  breaks  the  screws  or  jaws  if  they  become  cramped. 

The  size  of  cabinet  scrapers  mentioned  will  be  found  gen- 
erally satisfactory.  If  much  larger,  the  scraper  will  be 
clumsy,  and  if  more  than  \"  smaller,  the  tool  will  be  too 
small  to  be  grasped  easily. 

In  selecting  a  workbench,  it  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  that 
if  there  is  iron  in  its  top,  the  edges  of  the  tools  frequently 
will  come  in  contact  with  it.  -Benches  for  the  use  of 
manual-training  classes  have  been  designed  with  a  piece  of 
iron  at  the  head  of  the  bench,  extending  across  the  entire 
width  of  the  top.  This  is  part  of  a  device  to  hold  a  piece 
of  wood  between  a  "  dog,"  which  fits  into  holes  in  this 
iron,  and  the  jaws  of  the  vise,  either  the  whole  or  a  part 
of  which  may  be  elevated  to  hold  the  other  edge  of  the  piece 
that  is  to  be  clamped  between  them.  While  this  is  a 
very  good  idea,  as  it  furnishes  an  efficient  substitute  for  a 
tail  screw,  it  is  not  a  success  for  the  use  of  students,  as 
many  of  them  have  not  the  judgment  necessary  to  perform 
their  work  and  at  the  same  time  keep  the  edges  of  their 
tools  away  from  the  iron.  It  seems  unavoidable  that  the 


26  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

iron  jaws  of  the  modern  quick-action  vises  should  be  there, 
hence  all  that  can  be  done  is  to  guard  against  allowing  the 
edges  of  the  tools  to  come  in  contact  with  them;  however, 
as  the  vises  are  upon  the  edge  of  the  bench,  this  is  not  so 
difficult  to  prevent. 

In  ordering  an  equipment,  it  is  wise  to  include  in  the 
order  a  few  of  the  small  adjusting  screws  and  other  parts 
that  are  likely  to  become  lost  or  broken;  for  instance,  the 
screws  of  wing  compasses,  bevels,  saw  handles,  throat  and 
adjusting  screws,  and  levers  of  block  planes;  also  knobs, 
handles,  and  their  screws,  for  the  iron  bench  planes,  shoes 
for  gauges,  cutters,  caps,  and  set  screws  for  spokeshaves, 
chisel  handles,  etc. 

In  selecting  tools,  it  is  well  to  be  sure  that  they  are 
uniform  in  design,  for  if  there  are  several  different  styles 
of  tools,  the  problem  of  keeping  them  in  repair  becomes 
more  serious. 

Care  of  equipment.  —  Usually  the  teacher  himself  is 
obliged  to  keep  the  tools  in  order  at  first,  if  more  than  one 
class  uses  them,  as  it  takes  time  for  the  new  student  to 
realize  that  nothing  is  gained,  and  a  great  deal  lost,  by 
working  with  dull  tools.  Each  beginner  will  have  to  be 
watched  carefully  until  he  discovers  that  it  is  to  his  ad- 
vantage to  keep  his  tools  in  order,  and  will  voluntarily 
take  time  to  sharpen  them. 

While  the  class  as  a  whole  should  see  the  demonstration 
of  tool  sharpening,  it  will  be  necessary  in  most  cases  to 
give  individual  instruction,  otherwise  the  tools  will  rarely 
be  in  condition  to  do  satisfactory  work.  Unless  the  teacher 
constantly  guards  against  it,  the  older  classes  will  be 
obliged  to  do  most  of  the  sharpening,  as  the  members  of 
the  beginning  class  will  not  do  it  unless  they  are  made  to. 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  27 

At  all  events,  the  equipment  should  be  kept  continually 
in  the  highest  state  of  efficiency. 

Teachers  of  the  languages  and  of  mathematics  and 
sciences  spend  much  of  their  time  outside  of  school  in 
correcting  papers,  and  generally  think  that  the  teacher  of 
manual  training  has  much  more  leisure  time  than  they 
have;  but  if  the  latter  keeps  ahead  of  his  work,  and  sees 
that  his  tools  are  in  perfect  condition,  there  will  be  little 
reason  to  envy  him  on  this  score. 

In  the  care  of  tools  it  is  well  to  have  stated  times  for 
giving  the  entire  equipment  a  thorough  overhauling  in 
order  to  be  sure  that  the  adjusting  mechanism  is  working 
as  it  should,  and  that  the  cutters  are  ground  and  sharpened 
properly.  The  frequency  of  these  times  depends  upon 
the  faculty  of  the  teacher  to  impart  to  his  pupils  the  in- 
clination and  the  ability  to  care  for  their  own  tools.  If  a 
school  has  been  equipped  upon  the  basis  of  the  strictest 
economy,  and  all  classes  have  to  use  the  same  edge  tools,  it 
is  not  wise  to  depend  upon  the  students  to  keep  all  the 
tools  in  good  order.  Unless  the'  teacher  gives  them  his 
personal  attention  frequently,  the  temptation  to  use  tools 
that  have  been  sharpened  by  others  will  prove  irresistible 
to  many  students.  This  is  discouraging  to  a  boy  who 
would  naturally  keep  his  tools  in  good  order,  and  he  him- 
self is  apt  to  fall  into  the  same  bad  habit.  Of  course  this 
may  be  prevented  to  a  certain  extent,  but  unless  there  is  an 
individual  equipment  of  cutting  tools  for  each  student,  the 
teacher  may  be  sure  that  there  is  more  or  less  of  this  bor- 
rowing being  done  all  the  time,  and  he  should  be  careful, 
in  his  endeavors  to  prevent  it,  not  to  develop  a  system  of 
"nagging." 

It  is  the  custom  of  some  teachers  to  send  all  tools  that 


28  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR   TEACHERS 

need  grinding,  and  saws  that  need  filing,  to  a  shop  where 
the  work  is  done  by  an  expert.  One  reason  for  doing  this 
is  that  the  teacher  does  not  have  the  time  to  do  it  as  it 
should  be  done.  Another  reason  is,  that  unless  the  grind- 
stone is  run  by  power,  it  will  need  some  one  to  turn  it, 
and  even  with  power,  the  grinding  of  tools  on  a  grindstone 
is  tedious  work  at  best.  Despite  the  fact  that  there  is  a 
strong  prejudice  against  using  an  emery  wheel  for  the 
purpose  of  grinding  edge  tools,  it  is  the  usual  method  in 
furniture  and  other  woodworking  shops,  as  the  work  may 
be  done  in  much  less  time.  It  is  true  that  the  temper  of  a 
tool  may  be  started,  but  the  fact  that  edge  tools  are  being 
sharpened  continually  in  this  way  is  proof  that  it  is  simply 
a  matter  of  skill.  Therefore,  the  writer  recommends  the 
use  of  a  6"  or  8"  emery  wheel,  which  may  be  driven  by  a 
small  motor  if  there  is  no  other  power  in  the  shop. 

While  the  manual-training  teacher  need  not  be  ashamed 
to  admit  that  he  does  not  know  how  to  file  a  saw  properly, 
since  he  will  find  plenty  of  good  company  among  journey- 
men woodworkers,  many  of  whom  habitually  send  their 
saws  to  a  saw  filer,  every  teacher  of  woodwork,  however,  should 
be  an  expert  in  grinding,  whetting,  or  oilstoning,  in  fitting 
a  cap  iron  to  a  plane  cutter,  and  in  doing  any  of  the  adjust- 
ing necessary  to  keep  his  entire  outfit  in  perfect  condition. 
Moreover,  he  should  be  able  to  do  it  in  the  time  which  the 
average  teacher  ordinarily  can  give  to  that  part  of  his 
work. 

If  there  is  but  one  equipment  of  edge  tools  to  be  used  by 
all  classes,  it  will  be  difficult  to  know  of  all  losses  and 
breakages  of  tools,  unless  the  teacher  makes  an  inspection 
of  tools  before  each  class  leaves  the  room,  which  is  imprac- 
ticable on  account  of  the  time  required,  and  at  the  same 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  29 

time  unsatisfactory,  because,  even  then,  the  source  of 
the  damage  can  rarely  be  located  with  certainty. 

Constant  care  is  necessary  to  insure  that  the  benches  and 
other  fittings  are  not  defaced,  either  carelessly  or  deliber- 
ately, as  the  possession  of  a  sharp  tool  is,  to  most  boys,  a 
temptation  to  use  it,  and  a  few  will  be  apt  to  cut  the  first 
piece  of  wood  that  they  see,  without  much  regard  for  the 
ethics  of  their  action. 

Supplies.  -  -  There  is  but  one  exact  way  of  estimating 
the  material  necessary  to  provide  for  the  work  of  a  class 
during  a  specified  time,  and  that  is  to  plan  a  series  of 
models,  and  require  each  student  to  make  them  one  after 
the  other.  It  is  then  an  easy  matter  to  calculate  how 
many  reproductions  of  a  certain  model  will  be  made,  and 
the  dimensions  and  the  amount  of  material  necessary  to 
make  them,  allowing  20  or  25  per  cent  more  than  is  actually 
necessary  for  pieces  destroyed  and  for  waste.  This  method, 
which  has  definiteness  to  recommend  it,  is  used  entirely  by 
some  teachers,  but  there  is  one  important  objection  against 
it,  —  it  restricts  individual  work",  which  will  prevent  the 
progressive  teacher  from  using  it  to  more  than  a  limited 
extent. 

A  teacher  should  plan  his  courses  so  that  the  first  few 
models  will  be  made  by  all  his  students,  but  as  soon  as 
a  moderate  degree  of  facility  has  been  gained  in  the  use 
of  the  more  essential  tools,  the  individual  work  should 
€ommence.  The  material  for  these  models  may  be 
calculated  fairly  accurately,  and  by  selecting  a  course  of 
problems  from  this  book,  a  satisfactory  variety  may  be 
obtained  which  will  require  material  of  certain  dimen- 
sions kept -in  stock  by  almost  any  lumber  dealer. 

The  models  herein  described  are  planned  with  special 


30  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

reference  to  individual  work,  and  if  a  supply  of  boards  of 
the  required  kinds  and  thicknesses  is  ordered,  it  will  be 
possible  to  cut  the  dimensions  desired.  The  width  and  the 
length  of  the  boards  may  be  in  a  general  way  estimated,  so 
that  they  may  be  cut  with  the  least  possible  waste. 

The  different  kinds  and  thicknesses  of  boards  necessary 
to  do  any  of  the  work  in  the  courses  hereafter  described, 
except  that  in  the  trade  courses,  are  as  follows:  — 

Poplar,  pine,  or  basswood,  |",  \" ,  f",  I"-,  If",  for  towel  roller. 
Black  gum,  I";  cherry  may  be  substituted  for  gumwood,  if  desired. 
Cherry,  J",  *",  |". 
Maple,  I". 

Oak,  i",  I",  f";  II",  for  table  top  and  rails;  If"  for  feet  for  screen 
frame;  3"  X  3"  for  table  legs. 

In  giving  an  order,  poplar,  pine,  and  basswood  may  be 
ordered  as  substitutes  for  each  other,  the  poplar  in  general 
giving  the  best  results,  as  it  takes  a  better  finish  than  either 
of  the  other  woods.  The  material  for  the  larger  models 
—  the  plate  rack,  screen  frame,  etc.  —  may  be  furnished 
by  the  boys  themselves,  so  that  the  teacher  need  not  in- 
clude this  material  in  his  estimate.  As  a  matter  of  fact, 
if  individual  work  is  the  rule,  generally  there  will  be  but 
two  or  three  of  either  of  the  large  models  made  by  any 
class,  as  it  will  be  found  that  the  mass  of  the  students 
will  work  to  better  advantage  upon  the  smaller  models,  or 
that  they  will  want  to  make  some  model  not  included  in 
these  courses,  in  which  case  it  is  wise  to  allow  each  student 
to  furnish  his  own  material. 

it  is  a  matter  of  principle  with  some  teachers  and  schools 
not  to  allow  the  pupils  to  pay  for  any  material,  that  they 
may  use.  There  are  various  reasons  advanced  to  uphold 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  31 

this  policy,  but  the  writer  has  heard  none  which  he  feels 
has  as  much  weight  as  the  reasons  which  may  be  advanced 
for  requiring  the  student  to  pay  for  the  material  that  he 
uses  in  making  a  large  piece  of  work.  This  does  not  mean 
that  there  should  be  a  penurious  administration  of  the 
financial  side  of  manual  training,  but  that  the  student 
who  makes  a  model  in  which  the  material  may  cost  any  con- 
siderable amount,  or  which  may  have  a  real  intrinsic  value, 
should  pay  for  the  material  of  which  it  is  made.  This  is  not 
for  the  purpose  of  saving  expense  to  the  school,  although 
that  is  the  natural  result,  but  for  the  benefit  derived  by  the 
student  in  receiving  tangible  evidence  of  the  purchasing 
value  of  money,  —  frequently  the  first  real  experience  of 
the  sort  which  some  of  the  pupils  may  have.  The  average 
student  will  feel  very  differently  toward  economizing  the 
material  which  he  has  bought  and  paid  for,  at  some  mill, 
than  he  will  if  he  has  obtained  the  same  pieces  from  the 
lumber  rack  of  the  manual-training  department,  especially 
if,  through  carelessness,  he  destroys  a  piece  and  has  to 
purchase  another. 

The  writer  has  noticed  frequently  that  a  boy  who  was 
actually  indifferent  while  at  work  upon  the  routine  work 
at  the  beginning  of  the  course,  becomes  alert  and  interested 
as  soon  as  he  has  selected  a  model,  and  has  bought  and 
paid  for  the  material  of  which  it  is  to  be  made.  There  is 
rarely  any  need  of  cautioning  a  boy  who  has  purchased  his 
own  material,  in  regard  to  the  necessity  of  laying  out  his 
work  carefully  in  order  to  avoid  the  possibility  of  cutting 
the  material  to  waste. 

The  foregoing  does  not  mean  that  small  models  and 
exercises,  in  which  the  value  of  the  stock  used  is  nominal, 
should  be  paid  for  by  the  student. 


32  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

In  ordering,  the  teacher  should  use  judgment  in  selecting 
the  grades  of  lumber;  for  instance,  the  best  grade  of  a 
certain  kind  of  lumber  may  cost  ten  cents  per  foot,  and 
another  grade  of  the  same  kind  of  wood  may  cost  but  six 
cents.  The  difference  may  be  due  to  extra  large  dimen- 
sions, or  to  the  presence  of  a  few  blemishes,  which  may  be 
cut  around.  As  there  are  so  many  opportunities  for  using 
small  pieces  in  a  manual-training  shop,  most  of  the  pieces 
from  which  blemishes  have  been  cut  may  be  used  for  other 
purposes. 

It  is  a  true  saying  that  the  best  is  the  cheapest,  but  like 
many  other  generalities,  it  does  not  apply  in  every  case, 
as  the  majority  of  people  find  it  necessary  to  be  governed 
in  their  purchases  by  considerations  of  economy  as  well  as 
by  those  of  quality.  In  the  above  instance,  it  will  be 
cheaper  to  buy  the  six  cent  lumber,  as  there  will  be  noth- 
ing like  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  the  boards  cut  to  waste. 
Although  quartered  oak  costs  about  twice  as  much  as  plain 
oak,  the  latter,  by  many  teachers,  is  never  considered. 
Much  of  the  work  of  a  manual-training  school,  however, 
may  be  done  quite  as  satisfactorily  with  plain  as  with 
quartered  oak. 

The  teacher  should  not  feel  obliged  to  use  the  exact 
kinds  of  wood  specified  in  the  various  courses,  but  should 
give  the  preference  to  the  kinds  most  easily  obtained  in  his 
locality,  if  they  are  suitable. 

Both  hot  and  cold  glue  should  be  purchased.  Though 
there  is  no  doubt  that  the  former  holds  better  than  the  lat- 
ter, there  is  not  enough  difference  to  justify  the  statement 
that  cold  glue  is  worthless,  which  has  been  made  by  dif- 
ferent writers  upon  the  subject.  A  good  grade  of  hot 
glue  should  be  used  if  the  best  results  are  desired,  but  still, 


IN  WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  33 

on  account  of  its  always  being  ready  for  use,  cold  glue  may 
be  used  advantageously  in  many  places  where  the  strength 
of  the  joint  does  not  depend  entirely  upon  the  glue. 

In  purchasing  volatile,  liquid  finishing  materials,  it  is 
best  not  to  order  too  large  quantities  at  a  time;  several 
small  orders  at  different  times  will  insure  fresh  goods, 
and  thus  greater  efficiency.  Since  these  liquids  deteriorate 
rapidly  if  the  can  or  bottle  is  left  open  (which  is  certain 
to  happen  if  the  students  handle  it  without  the  closest 
supervision),  it  is  a  good  plan  for  the  teacher  to  keep  the 
large  cans  away  from  the  students,  and  to  supervise  per- 
sonally the  pouring  into  smaller  receptacles  of  a  sufficient 
amount  for  the  use  of  each  class,  taking  care  that  any 
residue  is  returned  to  its  can  and  the  brushes  thoroughly 
cleaned  before  the  class  is  dismissed. 

There  are  many  ready-mixed  stains  and  wax  finishes 
upon  the  market,  and  these  are  in  general  better  for  the  use 
of  manual-training  classes  than  any  which  can  be  mixed, 
as  they  are  sold  in  convenient  form  and  for  every  conceiv- 
able purpose. 

In  purchasing  shellac,  care  should  be  taken  to  secure 
a  satisfactory  article.  Certain  manufacturers,  in  putting 
up  shellac,  use  some  adulterant,  which  prevents  its  harden- 
ing properly.  This  can  be  known  only  by  testing.  Pure 
shellac  and  alcohol,  spread  thinly,  will  set  perfectly  in  a 
few  minutes,  but  the  kind  above  mentioned  will  require 
a  longer  time  to  set;  in  fact,  finger  marks  will  be  left  upon 
it  the  next  day,  unless  handled  carefully,  and  it  will  be 
very  little  harder  a  year  after  its  application. 

Pure  shellac  and  alcohol,  which  should  be  specified  in 
ordering,  has  an  appearance  similar  to  coffee  and  cream, 
while  the  objectionable  kind  has  a  peculiar  oily  appearance. 


34  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

After  an  opportunity  for  one  comparison  in  appearance 
and  in  behavior  under  a  brush,  the  difference  will  be 
evident. 

The  most  reliable  shellac  is  that  which  is  cut  by  the 
teacher  himself.  This  may  be  done  by  dissolving  gum 
shellac  in  alcohol.  Break  up  gum  shellac  into  fine  pieces, 
or  use  flake  shellac;  put  the  pieces  into  a  jug  or  glass  jar, 
and  cover  them  with  alcohol;  set  this  away,  and  shake  it 
occasionally.  Grain  alcohol,  or  the  best  grade  of  wood 
alcohol,  may  be  used;  either  will  give  satisfactory  results. 
Fresh  gum  shellac  should  be  secured  for  this  purpose,  or  it 
will  not  cut  properly.  Test  a  small  sample  before  pur- 
chasing, unless  it  is  guaranteed. 

A  suitable  brush  for  stains  and  filling  may  be  bought 
at  a  very  low  price,  as  it  makes  little  difference  if  the  work 
is  not  done  so  smoothly  as  shellacking,  for  the  spreading  of 
which  an  expensive  brush  is  necessary,  which  should  be 
well  taken  care  of,  if  the  best  results  are  desired.  A 
teacher  can  make  six  of  each  kind  of  brush  last  three  or 
four  years  by  giving  his  personal  attention  to  caring  for 
them;  on  the  other  hand,  a  gross  of  each  may  be  de- 
stroyed in  the  same  time  if  he  leaves  their  care  entirely  to 
his  students. 

Some  little  care  should  be  exercised  in  the  selection  of 
the  supply  of  screws  and  nails.  The  assortment  of  nails 
should  include  some  of  every  size  from  3d.  fine  to  20d. 
common,  and  from  half  inch  to  lOd.  finish.  Likewise, 
screws  suitable  for  the  needs  of  the  course  should  be  or- 
dered, and,  in  addition,  one  or  two  dozen  each  of  several 
larger  sizes,  and  a  few  boxes  of  assorted  smaller  screws. 
There  should  also  be  a  small  assortment  of  screw  hooks  and 
eyes,  carpet  tacks,  and  similar  articles,  as  the  manual-train- 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  35 

ing  teacher  frequently  is  called  upon  to  accommodate 
others,  and  there  is  often  a  demand  for  various  kinds  of 
odds  and  ends  in  doing  jobs  around  the  shop. 

Lists  of  equipment.  -  -  The  following  outfit  is  suitable 
for  the  benches  of  a  school  where  the  individual  equipment 
is  to  be  purchased,  and  is  for  the  use  of  twenty-four  students 
at  one  time. 

Individual  Outfit  for  Twenty-four  Students 

24  benches,  fitted  with  drawers,  racks,  and  closets  for  tools. 
24  outfits  of  tools,  each  consisting  of  :  — 

1-15"  iron  jack  plane.  1-1"  socket  firmer  chisel. 

1-7"  iron  knuckle-joint  block  plane.  1  gauge. 

1-J"  socket  firmer  chisel.  1-12"  backsaw. 

1-V'  socket  firmer  chisel.  1-20"  cutting-off  saw. 

1-f"  socket  firmer  chisel.  1-24"  ripsaw. 

NOTE.  For  mature  students  of  carpentry,  instead  of  the  two 
last-mentioned  saws,  a  22"  panel  saw,  a  26"  ripsaw,  and  a  26"  cutting- 
off  saw  should  be  provided  in  addition  to  the  backsaw. 

-8"  swing  bitbrace.  1  bench  brush. 

-12  oz.  bell-faced  claw  hammer.       1  bench  hook. 

-2  \"  hickory  mallet.  1-24"  straight  rule. 

-6"  screw  driver.  1-}"  auger  bit. 

-6"  bevel.  1-f"  auger  bit. 

1-6"  try-square.  \-\"  auger  bit. 

1  pr.  6"  wing  dividers.  1-f"  auger  bit. 

1-8"  X  2"  X  1"  oilstone.  1-1"  auger  bit. 
1  self-righting  oil  can. 

The  above  is  a  satisfactory  equipment  for  students 
taking  the  carpenter's  trade  course,  and  for  most  of  the 
work  the  students  may  be  called  upon  to  do  if  the  school 
is  part  of  an  institution  in  which  they  are  expected  to  aid 
in  keeping  the  buildings  in  repair. 


36  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

For  a  manual-training  school,  some  of  the  tools  above 
mentioned  will  be  found  unnecessary  for  the  individual 
equipment,  but  they  should  be  a  part  of  the  general  or 
rack  equipment  of  the  shop.  In  such  a  school,  in  which  a 
satisfactory  but  an  economical  outfit  is  desired,  the  follow- 
ing list  of  tools  will  be  found  suitable. 

Outfit  of  Common  Tools  for  Each  Bench 

1-20"  cutting-off  saw.  1  bench  brush. 

1-24"  ripsaw.  1  bench  hook. 

1-12"  backsaw.  1-6"  screw  driver. 

1-24"  straight  rule.  1  oilstone. 

1  gauge.  1  self-righting  oil  can. 

1-6"  try-square.  1  bitbrace.     8"  swing. 
1-12  oz.  hammer. 

Individual  Outfit  of  Edge  Tools 

1-15"  iron  jack  plane. 

1-7"  iron  knuckle-joint  block  plane. 

1  each,  i",  i",  I",  1"  socket  firmer  chisels. 

l_each,  i" ,  I",  V,  I",  1"  auger  bits. 

General  or  Rack  Equipment 

(These  tools  are  suitable  to  accompany  either  of  the  above  described 
bench  outfits.) 

3-24"  iron  jointers.  2-12"  try-squares. 

8-10"  iron  smoothing  planes.  6  framing  squares. 

NOTE.  Edges  of  framing  squares  should  be  divided  into  4ths,  Sths, 
12ths,  16ths.  (For  manual  training,  two  will  be  enough.) 

6-4"  screw  drivers.  2-12"  bevels. 

4-8"  screw  drivers.  8-6"  bevels.  (Omit  for  carpentry.) 

2-12"  screw  drivers.  8-6"  wing    dividers.      (Omit    for 

12  hickory  mallets,  2|"  face.  carpentry.) 

6  gauges.  2-10"  wing  dividers. 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  37 

1-12"  wing  divider.  1  glass  cutter. 

G  slip  stones.     Assorted  sizes  and  l-A"  department  tool  stamp. 

shapes.  1  set  Ty  steel  letters. 

3-26"  cutting-olf  saws.     8  points.  1  set  re"  steel  figures. 

2  sets  auger  bits.  1-30"  level. 

1  doz.  each,  #3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  German  1-12"  iron  level. 

bits.  3  doz.  nail  sets.     Cup  point.     As- 
1  each,  3"  and  2"  expansion  bits.  sorted,  mostly  small. 

6  wooden  countersinks.  1  doz.  peg-awl  hafts. 

G  lightning  countersinks.  6  doz.  awls  for  above  hafts. 

1  set  socket  firmer  chisels.     |"  to  1-10"  swing,  ratchet  brace. 

2".  1  doz.  3^"X  5"  cabinet  scrapers. 

6-18"  turn-saw  frames.    (Omit  for  1  doz.  iron  spokeshaves. 

carpentry.)  1  doz.  sloyd  knives. 

Blades  for  above  saws.  1  hack-saw  frame. 

6-16"  compass  saws.  1  doz.  hack-saw  blades. 

6  clamps;  to  open  3'  6".  2-10"  drawshaves. 

6-14"  hand  screws.  1  iron  routing  plane. 

1  doz.  12"  hand  screws.  1-9"  iron  rabbet  plane. 

1  doz.  10"  hand  screws.  \-\"  wood  bead  plane. 

1  doz.  each,  6"  and  4"  slim  taper  1  set  f"  match  planes. 

files.  1  set  \"  match  planes. 

1    doz.    12"    half    round    cabinet  1  iron  tongue  and  groove  plane. 

files.  1  breast  drill. 

1  doz.  flat  bastard  mill  files;  single  2  doz.  twist  drills,  assorted  from 

cut.  I"  to  \". 

G  bit  files.  3  each, !",i",J",f",l",H", gouges. 

1    each,    8"    and     12"    monkey  3  each,  J",  |",  f",  1",  center  bits. 

wrenches.  24  drawing  kits. 

3-G"  button  pliers.  24  pencil  compasses. 

1  each,  8"  and  10"  button  pliers.  2-3"  hatchets. 

3-6"  end-cutting  nippers.  1  grindstone. 

In  a  school  where  strictest  economy  is  necessary,  the 
equipment  of  tools  on  the  following  page  will  be  found 
sufficient  for  a  class  of  twenty-four  boys  to  do  all  the  work 
planned  in  these  courses. 


38  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

Many  teachers  prefer  an  equipment  similar  to  the  fol 
lowing,  there  being  fewer  tools  to  care  for  and  to  keep  ir 
order,  as  it  eventually  falls  upon  the  teacher  to  see  that  al 
the  tools  are  in  the  best  possible  condition  for  a  new  class 

Economical  Bench  Equipment  for  Twenty-four  Pupils 

24  benches.  24  bench  brushes. 

24-15"  iron  jack  planes.  24-6"  try-squares. 
24-7"    iron   knuckle-joint    block     24-12"  backsaws. 

planes.  24  bench  hooks. 

24-1"  socket  firmer  chisels.  24  drawing  kits. 

24  gauges.  24  pencil  compasses. 
24-24"  straight  rules. 

General  Tools  for  Rack  Equipment 

6-20"  cutting-off  saws.    10  points.  2  doz.  assorted  twist  drills,  \"  t< 

6-24"  ripsaws.     6  points.  \" .     For  bitbrace. 

4-10"  iron  smoothing  planes.  1-J"  wood  bead  plane. 

1-24"  iron  jointer.  1-f"  dado  plane. 

1-12"  try-square.  1-9"  iron  rabbett  plane. 

1  framing  square.     (6,  for  the  Car-  1-10"  drawshave. 

penter's  course.  6  sloyd  knives. 

12-12  oz.  hammers.  6  iron  spokeshaves. 

3-4"  screw  drivers.  6-3}"  X  5"  cabinet  scrapers. 

6-6"  screw  drivers.  6  peg-awl  hafts. 

2-8"  screw  drivers.  3  doz.  awls  for  above  hafts. 

1-12"  screw  driver.  1   doz.   nail  sets.      Cup  pointed 
3  oilstones.  Small  size. 

3  self-righting  oil  cans.  1-18"  level. 

4-6"  wing  dividers.  l-iV"  steel  department  stamp. 

6-8"  swing  bitbraces.  1  set  \"  figures.   . 

2-6"  swing  bitbraces.  1  glass  cutter. 

1-10"  ratchet  bitbrace.  2-6"  button  pliers. 

1  set  auger  bits.  2-6"  end-cutting  nippers. 

6  each,  J",  f  ",  |",  f,  1",  auger  bits.  1-8"  monkey  wrench. 

6  each,  #  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  German  bits.  \  doz.  8"  flat  bastard  mill  files 

Single  cut. 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  39 

1  doz.  12"  half  round  cabinet  files.  6  each,  I",  J",  f",  J",  f ',  socket 

1  doz.  4"  slim  taper  files.  firmer  chisels. 

1  doz.  6"  slim  taper  files.  3  wooden  countersinks. 

4  clamps.     To  open  3'  6".  1  lightning  countersinks. 

3-14"  hand  screws.  2  slip  stones. 

6-12"  hand  screws.  3  each,  £",  f ',  1",  1J",  gouges. 

6-10"  hand  screws.  2  each,  J",  £",  f",  1",  center  bits. 

3-18"   turning    saw  frames    with  6-6"  bevels. 

blades.    (Omit  for  carpentry.)  1-3"  hatchet. 

3-16"  compass  saws.  8-2^"  hickory  mallets. 

1  set  socket  firmer  chisels,  J"  to  2".  1  grindstone. 


CHAPTER  IV 

SUGGESTIVE  COURSES 

Grading  of  exercises.  -  -  In  preparing  the  following 
courses,  it  has  been  the  intention  to  suggest  a  series  of 
models  which  will  lead  the  student  from  the  simple  to  the 
complex  in  gradual  steps.  For  reasons  that  have  been 
previously  discussed,  the  writer  realizes  the  futility  of 
endeavoring  to  arrange  a  course  which  may  be  completed 
by  a  series  of  exercises  as  perfectly  graded  as  is  possible 
for  instance,  in  piano  practice.  He  has  therefore  been 
governed  by  the  size  and  the  importance  of  the  models, 
and  by  the  difficulties  involved  in  combining  the  various 
forms  of  construction,  rather  than  by  the  questionable 
basis  of  one  tool  being  more  difficult  to  use  than  another. 

Time  necessary  for  completion.  —  In  regard  to  the  time 
necessary  to  complete  the  various  courses,  there  is  a  wide 
difference  in  the  amount  of  work  that  may  be  accom- 
plished by  different  classes.  These  courses  are  planned  to 
give  ample  work  for  the  exceptionally  capable  student; 
consequently  the  conscientious  teacher  need  not  feel  that 
he  is  doing  less  than  he  should,  if  his  class  does  not 
accomplish  all  that  is  laid  out. 

Use  of  outlined  courses.  —  It  is  not  expected  that  the 
outlines  will  be  followed  implicitly,  as  no  course  can  be 
devised  which  is  the  best  for  each  one  of  any  class,  but 
they  should  each  be  considered  simply  as  an  indication  of 
the  grade  of  work  that  the  average  student  should  be  able 

40 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  41 

to  perform  at  each  step  in  his  progress.  They  may  also 
be  used  by  the  teacher  in  selecting  work  for  his  classes,  and 
as  a  basis  for  comparison  when  a  new  model  is  being  con- 
sidered, in  this  way  aiding  the  teacher  to  decide  whether  a 
certain  model  that  some  student  may  wish  to  make  is  suit- 
able for  that  particular  student  to  undertake  at  that  time. 

In  fact,  the  courses  are,  in  general,  adapted  to  the  more 
mature  student  of  the  normal  schools,  and,  in  connection 
with  the  rest  of  this  handbook  are  intended  primarily  for 
the  use  of  prospective  teachers  of  manual  training  in  pre- 
paring for  their  future  work. 

Some  of  the  sketches  illustrating  the  models  of  the 
courses,  instead  of  being  working  or  scaled  drawings, 
are  made  in  perspective,  the  student  being  given  only 
enough  to  suggest  the  size.  It  is  desirable  that  the  student 
should  not  follow  the  design  closely;  therefore  the  details 
are  suggestive  only,  and  each  student  should  be  required 
to  design  the  details  of  every  model  that  he  makes,  being 
guided  by  the  teacher. 

To  reiterate  and  to  emphasize  previous  statements, 
the  courses  should  by  no  means  prevent  the  teacher  from 
departing  from  them  as  individual  cases  may  make  it  ad- 
visable, or  from  substituting  others  that  he  may  deem 
better  suited  to  his  special  work.  The  models  mentioned 
are  suggestive  only  of  the  approximate  degree  of  difficulty 
that  should  govern  the  selection  of  the  work  of  the  average 
student. 

A  regular  course  to  be  followed  under  all  conditions 
seriously  hinders  the  development  of  many  students, 
who  should  be  encouraged,  instead,  to  design  their  own 
work  to  the  greatest  extent  possible.  If  necessary,  models 
made  by  the  teacher  or  by  other  students  may  be  used  as 


42  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

motives  or  suggestions,  and  each  student  required  to  make 
a  working  drawing  of  the  model,  changing  or  improving 
the  design,  instead  of  making  a  simple  copy,  and  construct- 
ing his  own  model  from  the  drawing. 

The  use  of  the  arithmetic  given  in  "  Elements  of  Con- 
struction" may,  in  the  manual-training  classes,  be  optional 
with  the  teacher. 

Research  and  written  exercises. — In  using  "  Elementary 
Woodwork"  and  " Elements  of  Construction"  as  the  basis 
of  the  work  of  classes  in  the  carpenter's  trade  courses, 
research  and  written  exercises  should  be  required  upon 
topics  and  exercises  which  treat  of  construction,  the  allied 
trades,  and  the  use,  strength,  and  durability  of  materials. 
An  entire  chapter  upon  tools,  materials,  or  other  subjects 
generally,  should  not  be  assigned  for  study  at  one  time, 
as,  in  most  cases,  if  the  proper  amount  of  research  is  de- 
voted to  the  subject  and  it  is  written  up  as  it  should  be, 
there  will  be  too  much  work  for  one  assignment.  Each 
teacher  will  have  to  decide  for  himself  the  matter  which 
should  be  discussed  and  the  time  which  may  be  allowed 
for  it. 

Tests  and  examinations.  —  Periodic  verbal  or  written 
tests  should  be  given,  reviewing  the  work  performed  since 
the  preceding  test;  there  should  also  be  an  examination  at 
the  end  of  the  term  or  semester,  covering  the  more  impor- 
tant points  of  theory  and  practice. 

The  written  exercises  should,  if  possible,  be  arranged  so 
that  they  will  come  at  frequent  intervals,  during  the  whole 
term,  and  should  be  kept  as  nearly  as  possible  parallel  with 
the  bench  exercises.  Class  exercises  may  be  performed  by 
as  many  students  as  can  work  together  to  advantage,  or 
by  as  few  as  the  teacher  may  desire. 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  43 

References  to  other  volumes.  —  In  the  following  outlines 
of  suggestive  courses,  special  care  has  been  exercised  to 
use  no  unfamiliar  term,  and  to  mention  no  subject  nor 
process  which  is  not  fully  described  in  one  of  the  volumes 
of  the  series.  These  volumes  are  indicated  by  the  use  of 
letters;  for  instance,  the  work  of  the  manual- training 
classes,  and  of  the  first  year  of  the  trade  classes,  is  taken 
from  "  Elements  of  Woodwork"  and  from  "  Elements  of 
Construction,"  the  former  being  indicated  by  the  letter 
W,  and  the  latter  by  the  letter  C.  The  work  of  the  sec- 
ond year  trade  classes  is  taken  from  "  Constructive  Car- 
pentry," which  is  indicated  by  the  letters  CC,  and  from 
"  Inside  Finishing,"  to  which  reference  is  made  by  the 
letters  IF.  These  letters  indicate  the  book,  and  the  ac- 
companying number  indicates  the  topic  in  which  the  item 
mentioned  will  be  found.  If  no  letters  appear,  the  sketch 
will  be  found  in  this  volume. 


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CHAPTER    V 
SPECIAL  TEACHING  HINTS  AND  SUGGESTIVE  DESIGNS 

New  subjects.  —  The  models  hereafter  described  indi- 
cate the  approximate  progression  of  difficulty  rather  than 
the  exact  sequence  of  work  that  should  be  followed. 
Each  teacher,  far  better  than  any  one  else,  should  be  able 
to  select  the  models  best  suited  to  the  needs  of  his  own 
classes;  therefore  the  subjects  for  description  and  demon- 
stration should  be  decided  when  the  model  is  selected, 
and  should  include,  except  as  review  may  seem  necessary, 
only  the  new  tools  and  materials  or  processes  introduced. 

It  will  not  be  wise  to  go  through  the  entire  list  of  new 
subjects  at  the  beginning  of  the  work  upon  the  model. 
If  taken  up  at  this  time,  very  little  of  it  will  be  fixed 
sufficiently  in  the  minds  of  the  students  to  be  of  value  to 
them  when  they  reach  the  different  stages  of  the  work. 
A  short  talk  at  the  beginning  of  the  work  each  day,  as  a 
new  tool  is  taken  up,  will  produce  better  results. 

Stock  cutting.  -  -  The  materials  for  the  first  few  models 
of  any  course  should  be  prepared  by  the  teacher  before  the 
class  arrives.  After  it  is  evident  that  the  students  have 
learned  the  necessity  for  making  an  allowance  for  work- 
ing and  for  cutting,  as  well  as  to  minimize  waste  and 
blemishes,  they  should  be  allowed  to  cut  from  the  board, 
having  first  made  sure  that  there  are  no  scraps  from  which 

56 


WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  57 

the  desired  pieces  may  be  cut.  The  teacher  should  watch 
this  part  of  the  work  very  carefully,  as  within  it  lies  the 
greatest  possibilities  of  economy  or  waste.  In  order  that 
the  students  may  be  given  a  broader  experience  in  stock 
cutting  than  is  possible  in  cutting  only  one  or  two  pieces  at 
a  time,  they  may  get  out  the  stock  from  which  several 
models  of  the  same  kind  are  to  be  made,  taking  turns  in 
doing  this,  that  all  the  class  may  have  the  benefit  of  the 
exercise.  This  may  be  carried  out  successfully  by  allowing 
the  advanced  students  to  prepare  the  stock  for  the  work  of 
the  beginning  classes. 

In  general,  the  material  required  for  the  following 
models  may  be  cut  from  the  regular  stock  thicknesses. 
This  saves  a  great  deal  of  time,  and  there  is  no  real  benefit 
gained  by  requiring  that  the  student  should  plane  every- 
thing to  its  three  dimensions.  Usually  material  that  has 
been  cared  for  properly  during  the  time  it  has  been  season- 
ing will  be  as  fair,  or  "  out  of  wind/'  as  it  is  possible  for 
any  student  or  workman  to  make  it;  but  if  its  face  is  not 
true,  which  may  be  proven  by  the  method  indicated  in 
"Elements  of  Woodwork,"  30  D,  or  in  "Elements  of  Con- 
struction," 4  D,  it  should  be  made  so  by  using  the  jack  plane 
sharpened  carefully  and  set  to  cut  very  fine,  after  which  the 
piece  should  be  gauged  to  an  even  thickness  and  planed  to 
the  gauge  marks.  This  will  result  in  a  piece  a  little  thinner 
than  actually  .required,  and  if  this  difference  is  so  great 
as  to  destroy  the  piece  for  its  purpose,  it  should  be  dis- 
carded. Many  young  teachers  regard  the  dimensions 
given  upon  a  drawing  as  immutable,  and  they  will  re- 
peatedly discard  material  that  is  a  trifle  smaller  than  called 
for,  or  will  cut  stock  badly  to  waste  in  order  to  secure 


58  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

the  desired  size.  There  are  certain  dimensions  that  can- 
not be  changed  after  the  work  is  planned,  and  others 
that  need  not  be  observed  so  carefully  ;  in  making  the  dis- 
tinction, the  teacher  has  an -opportunity  to  give  a  demon- 
stration of  the  necessity  for  exercising  economy  and 
judgment. 

In  commercial  work  it  is  generally  the  custom  to  get 
out  all  the  material  called  for  by  the  stock  list,  or  all 
that  will  be  required  to  finish  the  work  to  a  certain  stage. 
In  school  work  this  custom  cannot  be  followed  so  closely 
as  in  practical  life  since,  if  a  large  article,  or  a  model  re- 
quiring a  number  of  pieces,  is  being  made,  the  work  is  apt 
to  be  in  progress  for  several  months  before  the  last  piece 
will  be  needed.  If  all  the  material  were  cut  at  once,  some 
of  it  certainly  would  be  lost  or  appropriated  by  another 
student,  unless  the  teacher  assumed  the  unnecessary  bur- 
den of  giving  his  personal  attention  to  seeing  that  all  the 
pieces  of  the  different  models  under  construction  were  ac- 
curately accounted  for  at  each  lesson,  or  of  keeping  them 
under  lock  and  key. 

Making  the  model.  —  When  the  actual  work  upon  the 
model  has  commenced,  the  teacher  should  be  continually 
upon  the  alert  to  prevent  the  students  from  cutting  off  too 
much  wood,  thereby  making  the  model  undersize;  the 
tendency  to  do  this  will  be  more  apparent  upon  the  parts  of 
the  work  in  which  the  tools  work  the  easiest,  as,  for  in- 
stance, in  planing  the  sides  and  the  edges.  It  is  obviously 
more  difficult  to  obtain  a  square  and  true  end  than  to 
obtain  equally  good  results  upon  side  and  edge  wood.  The 
use  of  the  bench  hook  as  a  jack  board  or  shooting  board 
(see  page  3)  should  not  be  encouraged ;  it  is  a  method  of 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  59 

obtaining  results  rarely  used  by  workmen,  though  much 
used  in  the  manual-training  work  of  the  grades,  but  the 
methods  described  in  " Elements  of  Woodwork,"  44  B,  or 
in  "Elements  of  Construction,"  18  B,  have  stood  the  test  of 
many  generations.  A  mechanic  sometimes  will  use  the 
jack  board  if  he  has  many  ends  to  block  plane;  say,  for 
instance,  in  making  mitered  picture  frames.  "  Any  fool,"  as 
a  workman  once  said,  "can  make  a  joint  with  a  jack  board." 
It  should  be  the  aim  of  the  teacher  to  develop  the  skill 
which  will  permit  the  student  to  make  a  good  joint  by 
his  own  unassisted  efforts,  as  a  workman  has  to  do. 

The  difficulty  of  making  a  good  joint  upon  end  wood 
is  not  due  entirely  to  the  fact  that  it  is  more  difficult  to 
cut  end  wood  than  side  wood,  but  largely  to  the  fact  that 
the  average  student  persists  in  cutting  a  shaving  about 
four  times  as  thick  as  he  should,  and  in  continuing  his 
exertions  after  the  plane  is  badly  in  need  of  sharpening. 
As  Solomon  said,  "  If  the  iron  be  blunt,  and  he  do  not  whet 
the  edge,  then  must  he  put  to  'more  strength ;  but  wisdom 
is  profitable  to  direct."  (Eccl.  x.  °10.)  After  the  students 
have  obtained  a  reasonable  degree  of  skill  in  the  use  of 
their  tools,  as  satisfactory  results  may  be  obtained  upon 
end  as  upon  side  wood,  if  the  tools  are  properly  sharpened 
and  adjusted. 

Tendencies  to  be  corrected.  —  If  there  is  one  thing 
more  than  another,  in  teaching  tool  work,  in  which  the 
novice  should  be  guided  and  watched,  it  is  in  the  use  of  sand- 
paper, largely  because  it  seems  the  simplest  thing  in  the 
world  to  rub  a  piece  of  sandpaper  over  a  piece  of  wood. 
The  average  student  has  an  irresistible  tendency  to  use 
sandpaper  for  any  and  all  purposes,  and  no  amount  of 


60  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

reasoning  or  instruction  will  change  this  tendency  until  by 
experience  he  learns  that  he  injures  more  work  than  he 
improves,  and  that  the  use  of  sandpaper  before  all  the 
cutting  is  done  results  in  dulling  the  edge  tools  which  are 
used  after  it.  It  is  the  custom  of  some  teachers,  during 
this  stage  of  the  class  work,  to  keep  a  supply  of  sand- 
paper torn  to  a  convenient  size,  say  one  eighth  of  a  sheet, 
and  to  give  a  piece  to  each  student  as  he  needs  it,  requiring 
that  each  piece  shall  be  returned  to  him  after  it  is  used. 
This  prevents  stray  pieces  from  being  used  without  the 
teacher's  knowledge. 

Never  allow  a  student  to  sandpaper  across  the  grain. 
In  sandpapering  a  flat  surface,  no  matter  how  small, 
always  use  a  block ;  the  smaller  the  surface,  the  more 
need  of  a  block. 

The  teacher  should  guard  against  the  tendency  of  the 
students  to  use  the  spokeshave  for  every  conceivable 
purpose.  Its  use  should  be  kept  within  its  legitimate 
field,  that  of  truing  curved  surfaces,  and  never  used  for 
making  a  cylinder,  nor  in  any  other  place  where  a  plane 
may  be  used  as  well. 

Files  and  rasps,  in  respect  to  the  disposition  of  the  students 
to  use  them  for  other  than  their  legitimate  uses,  belong 
in  the  same  category  as  do  sandpaper  and  spokeshaves. 
Very  few  students  have  the  moral  stamina  to  resist  the 
temptation  to  use  a  rasp  or  a  file  in  place  of  the  block- 
plane,  if  the  latter  does  not  work  easily. .  The  'best  way 
to  prevent  the  use  of  these  tools  in  places  where  others 
should  be  used  is  to  keep  them  out  of  the  way.  The 
spokeshave,  contrary  to  the  custom  of  many  teachers, 
should  not  .be  a  part  of  the  regular  bench  equipment, 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


61 


but   a   part   of  the  rack  or  general  equipment,  in  which 
place  the  teacher  may  easily  prevent  its  wrong  use. 


SUGGESTIVE  DESIGNS 

As  has  already  been  stated,  the  students  should  not  be 
allowed  to  use  the  following  designs  for  the  purpose  of 
copying  them,  but  only  as  suggestions ;  they  are  intended 
simply  as  the  basis  from  which  the  students  may  develop 
their  own  designs. 

References  to  the  four  volumes  of  the  series  are  made, 
as  in  the  "  Suggestive  Courses  for  Study/ '  by  letters  (see 
page  43). 

Fig.  i.     Plant  Label. 

New  subjects : l  Ripsaw  and  cutting-off  saw  (will  be 
used  only  in  rough  cutting  the  material) .  Back- 
saw.  Gauge.  Knife  (cutting  and  whittling). 
Rule,  Try-square.  Jack  plane.  Block  plane. 

Wood:  Poplar  (whitewood),  pine, or  basswood.  Its 
native  area,  method  of  growth,  and  manipula- 
tion. (See  W.,  Chaps.  1,  2.) 

Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  From  material  dressed  two  sides  to  desired 

thickness,  cut  a  piece  \"  longer  and  \" 

wider  than  required  dimensions. 
Exercises. 
1.   A.   Prove  best  or  face  side  (broad  surface)  to  make  sure  it  is  out 

of  wind. 

1  The  items  under  this  heading  are  intended  for  discussion  and  dem- 
onstration on  the  part  of  the  teacher,  and  for  drill  on  the  part  of  the 
students.  Each  teacher  should  decide  for  himself  whether  the  sequence 
of  the  subjects  is  best  suited  to  his  needs,  and  if  not,  should  rearrange 
it  accordingly. 


FIG./ 


62       KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

B.  Mark  the  figure  "  1 "  on  face  side,  near  the  face,  or  best  edge,  and 

plane  edge  straight  and  square  with  face  side  ;  use  jack  plane. 

C.  Unless  it  is  necessary  to  plane  the  face  side  to  make  the  piece 

out  of  wind  (which  will  rarely  be  the  case  on  a  model  of  this 
size),  do  not  plane  the  face  side  until  all  the  edges  are  done. 

2.  A.   Mark  the  figure  "2"  on  the  face  side  near  the  best  end  (at 

right  angles  with  the  grain). 

B.  Mark  with  knife  and  try-square  the  line  to  which  the  end  will 

be  cut  off. 

C.  Cut  off  with  backsaw;  leave  a  very  little  for  block-planing. 

D.  Block-plane  exactly  to  line,  and  test  with  try-square  to  be  sure 

that  the  end  is  square  with  both  the  face  side  and  the  edge. 

3.  'Measure  desired  length  from  end  2,  and  square  across  the  face  side 

with  a  pencil. 

4.  A.   Mark  the  figure  "4"  near  the  other  edge  (the  back  edge)  on 

the  face  side. 

B.  Mark  the  required  distance  with  the  gauge.     (Drill  on  waste 

piece.) 

C.  With  the  jack  plane,  plane  edge  4  down  to  the  required  line, 

and  straight  and  square  with  the  face  side. 

5.  Point  the  label,  being  sure  that  the  point  is  on  the  center  line,  and 

that  the  obtuse  angles  are  exactly  opposite  each  other.  The  point 
should  not  be  brought  to  a  feather  edge,  as  it  will  be  broken 
easily  in  handling,  and  it  will  be  very  difficult  to  work  to  an  exact 
length ;  leave  the  point  something  less  than  -fa"  across  it.  Do 
not  measure  it,  but  be  guided  by  the  eye. 

6.  Plane  both  sides. 

7.  A.  This  model  should  not  be  sandpapered,  as  a  small  piece  is  diffi- 

cult to  hold  for  sandpapering. 

B.  This  model  may  be  used  also  as  a  whittling  exercise. 

C.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

Fig.  2.     Key  Tag. 

New  subjects :     Bits ;    auger,    center.     Spokeshave.     Chisel   used  for 

paring.     Compasses. 
Wood:     Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 
Preparatory:     Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


63 


Exercises. 

1,  2,  3,  4.   Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

5.   With  compasses,  mark  round  end  on  face  side. 

6.  Bore  \"  hole  at  center  of  round  end. .  Use 

auger  or  center  bit.  To  do  this  without 
splitting  the  piece,  place  it  in  the  vise, 
face  side  up,  and  slightly  compressed  at 
right  angles  with  the  grain.  Do  not  bore 
,  entirely  through  from  face  side,  as  the 
pit  is  apt  to  tear  the  wood  badly  when  it 
comes  through  the  back;  turn  piece  over 
when  the  center  is  definitely  marked  on 
the  back  and  bore  from  that  side. 

7.  Plane  sides. 

8.  Do  not  use  sandpaper. 


F/&Z 


9.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 


Fig.  3.     Wedge. 

New  subject :    Bevel  square. 

Wood  :     Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Prepare  piece  3"  longer  than  required,  so  that 

sufficient  wood  to  grasp  while  at'work  up- 
on the  model,  which  will  be  too  small  to 
be  handled  easily.  Get  piece  out  of  I" 
stock  \"  wider  than  required. 

C.  Mark  face  side. 
Exercises. 

1.  Plane  both  edges  straight  and  square  with  face 

side.     Do  not  block-plane  either  end. 

2.  Hold  in  vise  and  plane  to  a  wedge,  which  may 

be  cut  off  to  one  of  required  dimensions. 
Make  point  of  wedge  on  the  center  line  of 
the  edge  by  planing  from  both  sides. 

3.  Round  thin  edge  of  wedge.     Do  not  make  a 

feather  edge  ;  see  Fig.  1,  Ex.  5. 


will   be 


/7G.J 


64  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

4.  A.    Measure  from  round  end  the  desired  length  ;  mark  with  knife. 

B.  Transfer  to  all  four  sides. 

C.  Lay  out  bevel  corners  with  light  knife  lines.     Set  bevel  to 

angle  of  45°  by  setting  the  tongue  of  the  bevel  to  the  same 
figures  upon  both  sides  of  the  angle  of  a  steel  or  framing 
square.  See  C.,  Topic  58  D. 

D.  Cut  off  with  backsaw  to  length.     Leave  marks  on  the  wood. 

5.  Bevel  corners  to  required  angle,  which  has  been  described  in  Ex.  4, 

above.     Cut  down  on  the  bench  hook  with  the  knife. 

6.  A.    Block  plane  butt  edge  of  wedge  to  knife  marks,  or  trim  with 

knife  if  preferred. 
B.   Omit  sandpapering. 

7.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

Fig.  4.     Flower  Stick. 
Wood:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 
Preparatory. 

A.   Make  working  drawing. 

B.   Cut  piece  from  material  at  least  I"  larger  in  square,  and 
\"  longer  than  required  dimensions. 


_ 
i 


Exercises. 

1.  A.    Plane  one  side  straight  and  true,  and  mark  it  for  the  face,  or  "  1." 

B.  Plane  one  adjoining  side  square  with  it,  and  mark  it  "2." 

C.  With  a  gauge  sharpened  to  make  a  fine  line,  gauge  from  this 

side  across  the  face,  and  mark  the  line  which  indicates  the 
face  corner  of  the  other  side. 

D.  Plane  the  third  side  to  this  line,  and  square  with  the  face ; 

mark  it  "3." 

E.  Using  the  gauge  without  changing  the  set  of  it,  mark  the  edges 

of  side  "  4  "  upon  sides  2  and  3. 

F.  Plane  side  4  to  these  marks. 

2.  A.   Mark  and  finish  top  end. 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY 


65 


B.    Lay  out  decorative  notches  with  fine  knife  lines,  and  with  the 
utmost  accuracy  cut  to  them  with  a  sharp  knife  or  a  chisel. 

3.  Point  stick  according  to  dimensions.     Be  sure  that  the  students 

do  not  cut  off  this  end  until  this  stage  has  been  reached.     Leave 
point  as  described  in  Ex.  5,  Fig.  1. 

4.  Omit  sandpapering. 

5.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

Fig.  5.     Sandpaper  Block. 

New  subject:     Sandpaper;  its  manufacture;    its  use  and  abuse;  its 

effect  upon  edge  tools. 
Wood :    Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 
Preparatory:     Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 
Exercises. 
1,  2.      Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

3.  A.    Measure  desired  length  from  end  2,  and  mark  with  knife,  work- 

ing from  face  edge  or  edge  1.     Mark  this  end  "3."     The  edge 
parallel  to  edge  1  should  be  marked  "4." 

B.  Square  across  edges  1  and  4  from 

this  mark,  and  connect  the  lines 
across  the  back  side  (the  poorer 
broad  surface),  using  the  knife 
for  all  lines. 

C.  With  the  backsaw,  cut  off  the 

wood  beyond  mark  3,  as  near 
the  mark  as  possible,  and  leave 
the  mark  on  the  wood. 

D.  Finish  to  the  knife  mark  with 

the  block  plane. 

4.  A.   With  a  fine  gauge,  mark  upon  the 

face  the  required  distance  of 
edge  4  from  edge  1. 

B.  With  the  jack  plane,  work  edge  4  down  to  mark,  and  square 

with  face  side. 

C.  Plane  sides. 

D.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

5.  A.   Cut  or  tear  a  sheet  of  No.  1  sandpaper  into  eight  equal  parts. 


FIG.  5 


66 


KING'S   HANDBOOK   FOR  TEACHERS 


B.  Fold  it,  not  tack  it,  around  a  block  of  wood  about  2"  x  3"  and 
sandpaper  all  six  faces  with  it.  Be  sure  that  the  corners 
of  the  model  are  not  rounded  off,  but  that  they  are  perfectly 
square,  and  that  true  edges  and  sides  are  maintained. 

Fig.  6.     Pencil  Sharpener. 

New  subjects:  Hand  screws  (See  W.,  Topics  59,  66,  and  C.,  Topic  33). 

Glue  (See  W. ,  Topic  65) .    Gluing  (See  W. ,  Topic  66) . 

Gluing  with  a  caul.     Shellac  (See  W.,  Topic  71). 

Wood :     Cherry,  or  any  hard-grained  wood. 

Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

Exercises. 

1.  With  a  sharp  lead  pencil,  draw  a  line  the  length 

of  the  piece  in  the  center  of  the  face  side. 

2.  A.   Lay    off    on   the    center    line   the    distance 

between  the  wide  and  the  narrow  points  of 
the  model. 

B.  Lay  off  from  these  points,  one  half  of  the 

wide  and  narrow  dimensions  each  side  of 
the  center  line. 

C.  Draw  semicircle,  and  straight  lines  indicating 

taper. 

D.  Plane  to  taper  lines. 

E.  Round  the  end. 

F.  Plane  sides. 

3.  Same  as  Ex.  5,  Fig.  5. 

4.  A.   Cut  a  piece  of  sandpaper  the  desired    length,  and  about  \" 

wider  than  the  widest  part  of  the  wood. 

B.  Glue  it  in  place.     Use  a  caul,  which  is  a  piece  of -wood  for  the 

purpose  of  pressing  the  sandpaper  close  to  the  piece  to  which 
it  is  to  be  glued ;  hold  it  there  by  the  pressure  of  a  hand 
screw  until  the  glue  has  hardened.  The  caul  should  be  some- 
what larger  than  the  piece  of  sandpaper. 

C.  After  the  glue  has  become  hard,  trim  the  sandpaper  flush  with 

the  sides  of  the  piece  of  wood  to  which  it  is  glued. 

D.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

5.  A.    Finish  model  with  white  shellac,  spread  very  thin. 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY 


67 


B.  After  the  first  coat  is  hard,  sandpaper  it  lightly  with  00  sand- 

paper. 

C.  Apply  second  coat  of  thin  shellac. 

D.  After  second  coat  is  hard,  rub  it  with  00  sandpaper  and  with 

boiled  or  sweet  oil. 

E.  Polish  with  a  soft  cloth.     (In  rubbing  finish  with  sandpaper,  do 

not  rub  it  with  a  block  ;  use  a  felt  pad,  or  the  hand.     Other- 
wise the  sandpaper  will  cut  through  the  finish.) 

Fig.  7.     Silk  Winder. 

New  subjects :    Grain  of  hard  wood ;  comparison  with  other  woods ; 

method  of  growth ;   area  of  growth.     Files  and  rasps ;  their  use 

and  abuse. 

Wood:     Cherry,  or  any  close-grained  hard  wood. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  From  material  dressed  two  sides  to  the  required  thickness,  cut 

piece  1"  wider,  and  2|" 

longer  than  desired 

dimensions    (to   allow 

wood  enough  to  grasp). 
Exercises. 
1,2.    Same  as  Ex.  land  2,  Fig.  1. 

3.  Same  as  Ex.  4,  Fig.  1. 

4.  A.  With  a  sharp  knife,  mark 

length  on  end  3,  but  do 
not  cut  it  off. 

B.  Lay  out  notches  upon  all 

four    sides,   using  the        /=/G  7  -^  T&  u 

bevel  set  to  angle  of  45°. 

C.  Cut  notches  on  three  sides,  with  backsaw,  which  should  run 

very  lightly,  and  just  clear  marks. 

D.  With  a  sharp  chisel,  pare  very  lightly  to  marks. 

E.  Finish  with  a  fine  file,  keeping  inside  angles  and  all  corners 

clean  and  sharp. 

5.  A.   Cut  end  3  with  a  backsaw,  making  notches  as  in  Ex.  4  B  above 
B.   Plane  sides. 


68 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


6.  Same  as  Ex.  5,  Fig.  5. 

7.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

8.  Same  as  Ex.  5,  Fig.  6. 

Fig.  8.     Fishline  Winder. 

Wood :    Either  hard  or  soft. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  From  material  dressed  two  sides  to  the  desired  thickness,  cut 

piece  y  longer  and  §"  wider  than  required. 
Exercises. 

1,  2.  Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 
3,  4.  Same  as  in  Fig.  5. 
5.  A.  Locate  center  of  f "  holes. 

B.  Place  piece  in  vise  as  in  Fig.  2,  Ex.  6. 

C.  Bore  holes  with  center  or  auger  bit.     If  a  "  Forstner  "  bit  is  avail- 

able, it  should  be  used  instead  of  either  of  the  others,  as  it  is 
less  liable  to  split  the  wood.  (This  bit  is  not 
suitable  for  the  general  use  of  a  class,  as  it  is 
very  easily  dulled,  and  it  is  almost  impos- 
sible to  sharpen  it.)  If  this  bit  is  used,  B 
may  be  omitted,  as  the  model  should  be  held 
with  a  hand  screw  closely  against  another 
piece,  so  that  the  bit  may  bore  through  with- 
out tearing  the  wood  of  the  back  side. 

6.  Finish   the    holes    in    the  ends  of   the  model 

and  cut  out  the  waist,  or  the  middle  of  the 
edges.     Use  a  sharp  knife. 

7.  Plane  sides  first. 

8.  Sandpaper  the  model. 
9.   Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

10.   Shellac  the  model.     Two  coats  rubbed  down  with  oil. 
(Exercises  8  and  10  may  be  omitted  if  desired.) 

Fig.  g.     Hatrack. 

New  s.ubjects :    Bradawl.     Studding  in  plaster  partitions.     Wood  stains 
(See  C.  C.,  Topic  24  B.)     Chamfering. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


69 


Wood  :    Any  wood  desired. 

Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

Exercises. 

1,2.    Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

3,  4.    Same  as  in  Fig.  5. 

5.  A.    Make  pencil  lines  upon  face,  edges,  and  ends,  in- 

dicating the  angles  of  the  chamfer.  Do  not 
use  a  gauge  for  this  purpose,  as  the  scratches 
will  show  after  the  chamfer  has  been  made. 

B.  Chamfer  ends  first,  using  the  block  plane. 

C.  Chamfer  the  edges,  using  the  jack  plane. 

6.  A.   Mark  location  of  hooks.     If  a  screw  hook  simi- 

lar to  the  one  shown  in  the  illustration  is 
used,  mark  the  location  of  the  screw.  If  a 
hook  which  is  fastened  on  with  screws  is  pre- 
ferred, mark  the  location  of  the  screw  holes. 

B.  Bore  holes  with  suitable  bradawl. 

C.  Locate  and  bore  \"  holes  through  which  the 

rack  will  be  fastened  to  the  wall.  These 
need  not  come  under  the  hook,  as  shown  hi 
in  the  illustration,  unless  desired,  but  they 
should  be  placed  16"  to  centers,  as  that 
distance  will  allow  the  screws  to  enter  the 
studs  of  a  plaster  partition. 

7.  A.   Plane  sides  of  model. 
B.   Sandpaper  model. 

8.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

9.  The  model  may  be  either  stained  or  finished  in 

the  natural  wood.  If  the  former,  it  may  receive 
either  a  wax  or  a  shellac  finish.  If  oak  or  other 
hard,  open-grained  wood  is  used,  it  may  be 
See  W.,  Topic  69. 


filled  if  desired. 


Fig.  10.     Table  Mat. 

New  subjects :    Frame  saw.     Compass  saw.     Direction  of  grain  to  ob- 
tain maximum  strength.     Different  forms  of  bitbraces. 
Wood :    Poplar,  or  oak. 


70 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Cut  piece  about  A"  larger  each  way  than  required  dimensions, 
Exercises. 

1.  A.    Locate  the  center  by  diagonals,  without  planing  the  edges. 

B.  Draw  circle  of  required  diameter. 

C.  Before  sawing,  space  off  on  the  diagonals  the  centers  of  the 

holes  as  indicated. 

2.  A.   Place  piece  in  vise  to  prevent  splitting  while  boring  holes.     See 

Ex.  6,  Fig.  2.     Be  sure  that  sufficient  pressure  is  not  exerted 

to  split  the  piece  by  buckling. 
B.   Bore  the  holes  as  indicated.     (If  the  line  of  centers  of  these 

holes  is  parallel  with  the  grain,  the  piece  will  be  apt  to  split.) 

3.  With  the  compass 
saw,  or  preferably 
with  the  frame  saw, 
cut  the  circle,  about 
i"  outside  of  the 
line.  Place  the 
piece  in  the  vise, 
the  flat  surfaces 
parallel  with  the 


vise  jaws,  the  grain 
running  at  angle  of 
about  45°  with  the 
surface  of  the 
bench.  This  will 
minimize  the  dan- 
ger of  splitting 
while  sawing,  which 
will  be  almost  cer- 
tain to  happen  if  the  grain  is  parallel  with  the  bench  top.  If 
the  grain  stands  vertically,  the  same  result  will  be  attained. 
The  saw  must  run  very  lightly,  or  the  piece  will  be  apt  to  split, 
regardless  of  all  precautions. 

Finish  edge  to  exact  dimensions  by  spokeshave  and  wood  file.     Be 
sure  that  the  contour  of  a  perfect  circle  is  maintained. 


f=i&/0 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  71 

5.  Smooth  both  sides  with  jack  plane.     The  model  will  be  found  a 

somewhat  awkward  shape  to  hold  ;  to  make  neat  work  possible, 
a  form  may  be  made  by  making  two  pins  somewhat  smaller  than 
the  outside  hole,  and  setting  them  in  a  piece  of  scrap  wood 
large  enough  to  support  the  entire  model  in  such  a  way  that 
two  of  the  holes  will  fit  over  them.  Allow  the  pins  to  project 
above  the  scrap  piece  a  little  less  than  the  thickness  of  the 
model.  Place  the  model  over  these  pins,  and  plane  both  sides  in 
the  usual  way. 

6.  Sandpaper  both  sides  and  edges.     Maintain  correct  corners. 

7.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

8.  Stain  and  finish  to  taste. 

Fig.  n.     Rule. 

Wood :    Maple,  or  any  close-grained  hard  wood. 

Preparatory:     Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

Exercises. 

1,  2.   Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

3,  4.  Same  as  in  Fig.  5,  except  that  in  planing  the  edges,  especial  care 
must  be  used  that  they  are  perfectly  straight.  It  is  better  to  be 
guided  entirely  by  the  eye  in  this,  but  if  necessary,  a  steel  straight- 
edge may  be  used  for  the  final  test.  In  work  requiring  such  a 
degree  of  accuracy  as  this,  the  tools  should  be  in  perfect  order, 
and  so  adjusted  that  they  will  take  the  thinnest  possible  shaving. 


-  i  •  i  '  l  '  l  '  l  '  l  '  l  '  i  -  i  -  i  •  i  •  i  '  l 

f\  6\  H  <9  9  <0\  //\ 


FIG.lt. 

5.  In  making   the   graduations,    do    not    allow   the  students  to  lay 

out  one  inch  at  a  time.  Instead,  lay  out  all  the  inch  gradua- 
tions at  once,  then  the  half  inch,  then  the  quarter  inch,  and 
eighths  if  desired.  Insist  upon  absolute  accuracy. 

6.  If  the  wood  is  straight   grained,   the  rule  may  be  planed  upon 

both  sides.  If  this  cannot  be  done  well,  the  students  may 
sandpaper  the  sides  to  a  smooth  surface.  If  care  is  used  in 
selecting  the  wood  for  this  model,  this  may  be  done  satisfactorily. 


72 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


7 .  Finish  with  two  coats  of  shellac,  rubbed  down  in  oil.     See  Fig.  6,  Ex.  5. 

8.  If  a  set  of  rV  sharp  steel  figures  is  available,   the   inches  may 

be  marked  before  the  rule  is  shellacked ;    otherwise  the  figures 

should  be  made 
very  carefully 
with  black  draw- 
ing ink  after  the 
model  has  been 
rubbed  with  oil 
and  polished. 

Fig.  12.     Plant  Stand. 

Octagonal. 
New  subjects :  Laying 

out  an  octagon. 

Nailing.      Nails. 

Hammer. 
Wood :    Poplar. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working 

drawing. 

B.  From  $"  pop- 
lar, cut  rough 
square  |"  larg- 
er   than    re- 
quired. 

C.   Make  the  piece  for  the  foot  long  enough  for  all  four  pieces. 
Exercises. 
1.   A.   Plane  edge  1.     See  Fig.  1. 

B.  Lay  out  square  accurately  with  a  pencil. 

C.  Draw  diagonals  from  corner  to  corner  across  the  face  of  the 

square,  and  set  the  compasses  at  one  half  of  their  length, 
measuring  from  either  corner  to  the  center.  With  the  cor- 
ners as  centers,  draw  arcs  as  indicated ;  their  intersection 
with  the  edges  of  the  square  will  give  the  angles  of  an 
octagon. 

D.  Connect  these  points  across  the  angle. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


73 


:::D 

:':O 


;BD 


2.  A.   With  block  plane,  make  ends  2  and 

3  square  with  face  edge  and  side, 
planing  toward  edge  4,  as  the 
chips  will  be  cut  off.  See  Fig.  1. 
B.  Cut  off  corners  diagonally  with  the 
grain,  and  complete  the  octagon. 

3.  Plane  both  sides. 

'       "* 

4.  Sandpaper  both  sides  and  edges.  .    j 

5.  A.   Plane  four  sides  of  the  piece  pre-      V^ 

pared  for  the  feet.  U 

B.  Cut  them  to  length.     Place  them        r! 

together,  and  block-plane  each  *  | 

end  of  the  four  at  once.  > 

C.  Sandpaper  the  feet.  aj 

6.  A.   Nail  the  feet  in  their  places,  locat-  .  |  jl 

ing  them  accurately.     Use  1"  *JJ 
brads.  \l 

B.   Set  the  nails.  p 

7.  Inspect   carefully    for   defects,   and  *^J 

remedy  them  as  far  as  possible.  (  | 

8.  A.   Shellac  one  coat.  w 

B.  Color  putty  to  match.  \ijjj 

C.  Proceed  with  sandpaper  and  sec-,       M 

ond  coat  in  the  usual  way. 


Fig.  13.     Tool  Rack. 

Wood :    Pine,  poplar,,  or  basswood. 

Preparatory :    Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

Exercises. 

1,  2.   Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

3,  4.   Same  as  in  Fig.  5. 

5.  Space  and  bore  holes,  as  indicated. 

6.  Cut  ends  to  shape  indicated,  and 

bore  holes  for  screws. 

7.  Sandpaper. 

8.  Inspect  for  defects. 

9.  Shellac  finish  if  desired,  or  model  may  be  left  unfinished. 


0 


74 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


Fig.  14.     Bench  Hook.     See  C.,  Topic  81. 

New  subjects :    Relation  of  dimensions  to  grain.     German  bits.     Coun- 
tersink.   Screwdriver. 
Wood :    Basswood. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Cut  one  piece  \"  wider  and  2^"  longer  than  required  to  include 

all  three  pieces. 
Exercises. 

1,  2.  Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 
3,  4.  Same  as  in  Fig.  5. 
5.  Cut  from  each  end  of  above  piece,  one  piece  3"  long,  or  \"  longer  than 

r —  33  - ^  required     for 

short  pieces. 
6.  Cut  one  of 
above  pieces 
to  the  width 
of  the  nar- 
rower short 
piece.  Cut 
out  a  blemish, 

if  there  is  one  that  can  be  removed  in  this  way. 
A.   Smooth  the  largest  piece  of  the  three  upon  both  sides,  but  do 

not  sandpaper. 

Mark  with  the  exact  location  of  the  blocks  of  each  end  on 
opposite  sides.     The  distance  between  the  vertical  faces  of 
the  short  pieces  should  come  in  the  middle  of  the  length  of 
the  large  piece,  leaving  an  indefinite  distance  at  each  end. 
8.   A.   Bore  and  countersink  screw  holes  in  small  pieces.     Make  the 
holes  large  enough  to  allow  the  screws  to  slip  through  easily. 
Hold  the  different  pieces  in  their  permanent  positions  by  means 
of  hand  screws,  and  drive  screws  into  the  large  piece  to  mark 
the  holes  there. 
Remove  pieces. 

Spread  glue  thinly  on  the  bottom  of  one  of  the  small  pieces. 
Do  not  use  enough  glue  to  squeeze  out,  or  it  will  make  un- 
necessary work  in  cleaning  it  off. 


7. 


9. 


B. 


B. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


75 


B.   Place  screws  in  holes  as  in  Ex.  8,  A  and  B,  and  turn  them  in.     If 

the  screws  do  not  bring  the  pieces  to  a  joint,  apply  hand 

screws  until  the  glue  sets.     Be  sure  that  the  piece  is  exactly 

in  its  position.     Repeat  the  operation  with  the  other  piece. 

10.   Consider  the  three  pieces  as  one  and  treat  them  as  in  Exs.  1,  2, 

3, 4,  above,  except  that  the  vertical  distance  between  the  two  short 

pieces  should  be  the  basis  of  the  extreme  length.     This  model 

should  be  neither  sandpapered  nor  finished.     Enough  of  these 

models  should  be  made  to  keep  the  shop  supplied  with  bench  hooks. 

Fig.  15.     Cutting  Board. 
New  subject:  The  ellipse. 
Wood:    Poplar. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  The  teacher  may  make  a  pasteboard  pattern  a  little  larger  than 

the  required  model,  which  will  do  to  mark  for  rough  cutting, 


but  the  students  should  lay  out  the  ellipse  to  exactly  the 
right  dimensions.  This  model  should  be  cut  from  a  board 
which  is  good  on  both  sides,  as  both  sides  will  be  used. 

Exercises. 

1.   Lay  out  the  ellipse  by  trammel  method,  as  follows :   lay  out  or  cut 


76       KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

notches  from  C  (or  the  corner  of  a  piece  of  card  or  thin  wood) 
the  distance  C-l,  which  is  equal  to  one  half  of  the  minor  axis 
of  the  ellipse,  and  the  distance  (7-2,  which  is  equal  to  one  half  of 
the  major  axis.  Place  1  on  the  major  axis,  and  2  on  the  minor 
axis,  and  C  will  indicate  a  point  upon  the  circumference  of  the 
ellipse.  Each  time  the  positions  of  1  and  2  are  changed  upon  the 
axes,  C  locates  another  point  on  the  circumference.  These  points 
should  be  close  ^enough  together  to  allow  a  freehand  line  to  be 
drawn  through  them,  which  will  be  the  desired  form  of  the 
ellipse. 

2.  A.   Saw  to  about  £"  larger  than  desired. 

B.  Finish  to  exact  size  and  shape  with  spokeshave  and  wood  file. 

Make  the  edges  square  before  they  are  rounded;  otherwise 
they  will  be  apt  to  have  irregularities. 

C.  Round  the  edges. 

3.  Plane  and  sandpaper  both  sides  and  edges. 

4.  Inspect  for  defects. 

5.  Shellac  finish  if  desired,  but  it  is  unnecessary. 

Fig.  1 6.     Sand  Shovel. 

New  subjects:    Clinch  nails.     Stock  lists.     Three  planes  of  projection. 

See  C.,  Chap.  4. 
Wood :     Poplar,  oak,  or  maple. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Cut  blade  of  shovel  from  poplar,  £"  longer  and  \"  wider  than 

required. 

D.  Cut  back  cleat  of  shovel  from  \"  poplar,  making  allowance 

for  working. 

E.  Cut  the  handle  from  I"  hard  wood,  I"  longer  than  necessary. 
Exercises. 

1.  A.  Apply  Ex.  1,  2  of  Fig.  1,  and  Ex.  3,  4  of  Fig.  5,  to  the  blade  of 

the  shovel.     Do  not  taper  it. 
B.   Plane  and  sandpaper  the  best  side  only. 

2.  Make  back  cleat  of  required  dimensions,  not  cutting  it  to  length. 

3.  A.   Using  I"  tinned  trunk,  clout,  or  clinch  nails,  fasten  the  blade 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


77 


4. 


to  the  cleat.  Bore  holes  with  a  bradawl  to  insure  that  the 
nail  will  not  split  either  piece  of  wood.  Allow  the  ends  of 
the  cleat  to  project  beyond  the  edges  of  the  blade.  Clinch 
the  nails  neatly  on  the  top  of  the  cleat,  and  be  sure  that  no 
nail  comes  in  the  middle  of  the  cleat,  as  it  will  interfere  with 
fitting  the  handle. 

B.  Cut  the  ends  of  the  cleat  off  flush  with  the  edge  of  the  blade, 

and  touch  lightly  with  the  block  plane. 

C.  Bevel  the  ends  of  the  cleats. 

Lay   the   blade   under   side   up   on  the  bench,   holding  the  cleat 
against  the  edge,  and  taper  it  down  to  ^  at  the  thin  edge.     Use 


the  jack  plane,  and  guard  against  planing  the  heads  of  the  clinch 
nails,  which  should  be  set  a  little  under  the  surface  of  the  wood. 

5.  A.   Using  the  jack  plane,  square  the  handle  to  the  required  dimen- 

sions, leaving  the  piece  the  full  length. 

B.  Plane  the  corners  until  the  piece  is  an  accurate  octagon  the 

entire  length. 

C.  Plane  each  one  of  the  eight  corners  off,  and  make  the  stick 

round.  Set  the  plane  to  cut  very  fine  in  doing  this,  and  in 
finishing  it,  the  block  plane  may  be  used  if  very  light  touches 
are  necessary,  and  if  the  cut  does  not  tear  the  wood. 
Guard  against  the  use  of  the  spokeshave  for  this  purpose,  as 
it  will  result  in  making  the  piece  too  small.  Do  not  depend 
upon  sandpaper  to  round  the  handle,  as  it  will  not  do  it. 

D.  Sandpaper  the  handle. 

6.  A.    Cut  the  end  of  the  handle  to  fit  the  angle  of  the  blade. 
B.   Make  a  notch  in  the  cleat,  which  will  fit  the  handle. 


78 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


C.   Sandpaper  the  back  end  of  blade  and  cleat,  after  they  have 

been  planed  flush  with  a  block  plane. 
7.   A.   With  1"  and  l\"  clinch  nails,  fasten  the  blade  to  the  handle. 

B.  Fasten  the  cleat  and  the  blade  to  the  handle  with  1£"  or  If" 

clinch  nails. 

C.  Bore  holes  carefully    with    a  bradawl  or  small    German  bit. 

In  making  this  model,  the  utmost  care  will  be  necessary  in 
guarding  against  splitting  the  wood,  especially  in  the  handle. 

8.  Sandpaper  the  bottom  and  the  edges  of  the  blade. 

9.  A.   Cut  the  handle  to  required  length. 

B.   Round  the  end  of  the  handle,  and  sandpaper  it. 
10.   Inspect  for  blemishes,  and  correct  them. 
A  model  of  this  nature  need  not  be  finished. 

Fig.  17.     Dish  Drainer. 

New  subject:  Driving  nails  to  give  maximum  grip. 

Wood :     Poplar. 

Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Get  out  slats  \"  longer  and  §"  wider  than  required. 


T 

1 

> 

3 

J 

1 

«j 

]  . 

t 

*-K 

| 

| 

f 

I 

--t 

r 

,1. 

'*-/•'— 

^/J^, 

>*—/!"-• 

/  '" 

D.  Cut  cleats  with  the  same  allowance  for  working. 

As  a  matter  of  economy,  the  slats  for  as  many  of  these  as  will 


IN  WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  79 

be  made  should  be  ripped  upon  a  circular  saw  at  the  mill, 
because  it  will  be  almost  impossible  to  split  these  by  hand 
without  allowing  the  saw  to  catch,  which  will  generally  re- 
sult in  splitting  the  board  and  destroying  stock. 
Exercises. 

1.  Plane  one  edge  of  all  cleats. 

2.  Place  them  together,  planed  edge  all  one  way,  and  block  plane  one  end. 

3.  Keep  them  all  together,  saw  to  length,  and  block  plane  the  other  end. 

4.  A.   With  a  gauge,  mark  to  width,  one  at  a  time. 

B.  Plane  to  gauge  mark,  one  at  a  time.  (It  is  not  necessary  that 
these  edges  should  be  planed  perfectly  square.) 

5.  Plane  both  sides  and  sandpaper. 

6.  A.    Make  cleats  to  desired  size. 
B.    Plane  and  sandpaper. 

7.  A.   Nail  slats  on  the  cleats,  using  f "  brads.     Drive  them  slanting. 

B.  Set  the  nails  a  little  below  the  surface ;   hold  against  a  piece  of 

flat  iron  to  clinch  the  nails,  if  they  are  driven  through. 

C.  Inspect  for  defects. 
Finishing  unnecessary. 

Fig.  18.     Coat  Hanger.     See  C.,  Topic  82. 

New  subject :   Laying  out  curves  by  points. 

Wood :     Poplar. 

Preparatory:     Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

Exercises. 

1.  Same  as  Exs.  1,  2  of  Fig.  1  and  Exs.  3,  4  of  Fig.  5. 

2.  A.    Lay  out  points  as  indicated,  by  intersection  of  lines. 

B.  Draw  curve ;  with  elbow  resting  on  bench  and  forearm  as 
radius,  a  pencil  held  in  the  fingers  will  approximate  the 
correct  curve. 

3.  With  compass,  or  with  frame  saw,  cut  to  curved  lines,  allowing 

about  -J"  for  working.     Keep  the  saw  square  with  the  face  of  the 
piece,  and  use  the  try-square  frequently  to  insure  accuracy. 

4.  With  spokeshave,  make  inside  of  curve  true  and  square  with  sides. 

5.  With  spokeshave,  round  the  top  to  given  dimensions  ;   be  sure  that 

the  corners  of  the  curved  edges  are  clean  and  sharp,  and  that 
no  lumps  are  visible. 


80 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


6.    Plane   the   sides,  and   sandpaper   the   model  all  around.     In  this 
lies  a  fruitful  source  of  trouble,  as  the  majority  of  the  students 





Ject/onatfl 


will  round  the  corners,  thus  destroying  the  character  and  the 
grace  of  the  curves. 

7.  Inspect  for  defects. 

8.  Finish  in  the  natural  wood,  with  two  coats  of  shellac  rubbed  in  oil. 
(The  teacher  should  guard  against  the  tendency  to  make  the  model 

too  small,  which  is  more  apparent  in  this  than  in  many  other 
models.) 

Fig.  19.     Key  Rack. 

New  subject :    \V  ood  carving. 
Wood :    Poplar. 
Preparatory.    As  in  Fig.  1. 
Exercises. 

1.  Same  as  Exs.  1,  2  of  Fig.  1  and  Ex.  4  of  Fig.  5. 

2.  Plane  smooth,  but  do  not  sandpaper. 


---V--1 

Jecf/onal/t 


3.    Draw  simple  design  for  carving. 

(The  teacher  should  be  sure  that  the  carving  tools  are  in  perfect  con- 
dition, as  these,  above  others,  require  the  attention  of  an  expert.) 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  81 

4.  Drill  in  carving  upon  a  piece  of  waste  wood,  making  the  design  to  be 

carved.  Be  careful  that  the  cuts  are  riot  too  deep  ;  ordinarily  a  cut 
I"  deep  is  sufficient  for  this  kind  of  carving.  Use  a  No.  11  veining 
gouge,  a  No.  2  skew  chisel,  and  a  chip  carving  knife  for  this 
work. 

5.  Locate  holes  for  screw  hooks  and  screw  eyes  and  bore  them  with 

a  bradawl. 

6.  Sandpaper.     Use   a   block   and   keep   the   sandpaper   well   under 

control,  so  as  not  to  destroy  the  sharp  edges  of  the  carving. 
Under  no  condition  allow  the  sandpaper  to  touch  a  cut  made 
by  a  carving  tool. 

7.  Inspect  for  defects. 

8.  Stain  and  finish  to  suit  the  taste. 

Fig.  20.     Blotting  Pad. 
Wood :     Cherry. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Cut  both  pad  and  top  of  required  thickness,  making  an  allow- 

ance for  working. 
Exercises. 

1.  A.   Lay  out  pad,  or  under  piece  wit^i  rough  edges,  and  work  one 

half  of  it  to  desired  shape.     Work  from  one  straight  edge. 
B.   Cut  to  length,  and  make  other  half  symmetrical. 

2.  Plane  to  required 

width.  Bore 
holes  for  round- 
headed  brass 
screws. 

3.  Make  top  to  fit 

pad. 

4.  With   a    suitable 

gouge,  cut  the  finger  holes  in  the  sides.  If  students  are  below 
the  seventh  grade,  this  model  may  be  made  of  soft  wood. 

5.  Inspect  for  defects. 

6.  Stain,  and  shellac  or  wax  to  suit  taste. 


82 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


Fig.  21.     Bracket  Shelf. 
Wood:    Poplar. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Cut  the  shelf  and  back  j 


wider  and  •£"  longer  than  desired. 


D.  Cut  bracket  by  pattern,  for  the  sake  of  economy. 


Exercises. 

1.  Same  as  Exs.  1,  2  of  Fig.  1  and  Exs.  3,  4  of  Fig.  5,  applied  to  the 

shelf  only. 

2.  Lay  out  back  with  pencil  and  work  carefully  to  lines. 

3.  Plane  and  sandpaper  the  shelf  and  the  back. 

4.  Using  l\"  brads,  nail  the  shelf  to  the  back,  being  sure  that  they 

are  square  with  each  other. 

5.  Make  bracket  in  accordance  with  original  design. 

6.  A.   Fit  bracket  to  both  shelf  and  back.     Fit  the  end  wood  first. 
B.   Plane  and  sandpaper  it. 

Fasten  in  place  with  brads,  and  with  glue  used  sparingly. 

Set  nails. 

Stain. 

Putty  nail  holes. 

Inspect  for  defects. 

Shellac  or  wax  finish. 


7. 


C. 
A. 
B. 
C. 
D. 


Fig.  22.     Pen  Tray. 

New  subjects :    Inside  and  outside  gouges. 
Wood :    Cherry,  or  gumwood. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


83 


Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 
Exercises. 

1,  Same  as  Exs.  1,  2  of  Fig.  1  and  Exs.  3,  4  of  Fig.  5. 

2.  Plane  top  and  bottom. 
3    Lay  out  recess  in  tray. 

4.  With  an  outside  gouge  of  somewhat  smaller  curve  than  that  required, 
cut  the  re- 
cess. Be 
sure  that 
the  edge  of 
recess 
clean 


the 

is 

and  true 

5.  Sandpaper  recess  and  top  of 

ners  and  true  edges 
are  preserved. 

6.  Inspect  for  defects. 

7.  Finish    with    shellac, 

rubbed  in  oil. 


Fig.  23.  Plant  Stand. 
Halved. 

New  subject :  The  halved 
or  lock  joint. 

Wood :    Poplar. 

Preparatory:  Cut  two 
pieces  as  required, 
making  allowance 
for  working. 

Exercises. 

1.  Make  pieces  of  form 

and  dimension  re- 
quired. 

2.  Mark  the  cuts  for  the 

lock  joint.    Be  sure 


piece.     Be  sure  that  the  sharp  cor- 


that  they  are  made  small  enough  to  insure  a  tight  fit,  but  not 
small  enough  to  bruise  the  wood  in  pressing  the  joint  together. 


84 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


In  doing  this,  do  not  measure  with  a  rule  to  obtain  the  marks,  but 
mark  directly  from  the  pieces  which  are  to  come  together. 
Use  the  gauge  for  the  depth  mark.     Square  down  for  sides  of  the  cul 

3.  A.   Make  the  cuts  with  the  backsaw.     Be  sure  to  cut  inside  of  tl  . 

lines,  but  leave  the  lines  on  the  wood. 

B.  If  too  tight,  do  not  chisel  by  guess,  but  make  an  accurate 

knife  mark  to  receive  the  edge  of  the  chisel  in  making  the  cut. 

C.  Inspect  for  defects. 

4.  Stain  or  shellac  to  suit  taste. 


Fig.  24.     Bird  House. 

New  subjects:    Use  of  steel  square  in  laying  out  gable. 

composition  and  uses. 
Wood :    Pine,  or  poplar. 


Paint;   its 


Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Cut  all  pieces,  making  allowance  for  working. 
Exercises. 

1.   Cut  the  ends  with  half  pitch  gable  ;  make  edges  square, 
stand  vertically. 

A.  Cut  door  in  one  end. 

B.  Plane  outside  of  end. 

A.   Make  sides  of  desired  dimensions. 


Grain  to 


2, 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  85 

B.   Plane  the  outsides. 

4.  A.   Nail  sides  to  ends. 

B.  Bevel  upper  edges  to  same  pitch  as  the  roof. 

C.  Plane  the  bottom  of  the  ends  and  sides  flush. 

D.  Sandpaper  ends  and  sides. 

5.  A.  Make  bottom  of  the  desired  size. 

B.  Fit  the  ends  and  sides  of  the  house  to  the  bottom. 

C.  Nail  the  bottom  on  to  the  ends  and  sides  of  the  house  with  1|" 

brads. 

6.  A.   Cut  both  roof  pieces  to  desired  size.     Plane  outsides. 

B.  Nail  the  narrow  roof  board  in  its  place. 

C.  Be  sure  that  the  tops  of  the  gable  and  the  top  edge  of  the  roof 

board  are  exactly  in  line,  or  the  other  piece  will  not  fit  closely. 

D.  Nail  the  wide  roof  board  in  its  place. 

E.  Smooth  joint  at  ridge  of  roof,  and  sandpaper  both  roof  boards 

and  their  edges. 

7.  Make  and  fit  chimney,  and  nail  to  its  place. 

8.  Inspect  for  imperfect  work,  and  correct  defects. 

9.  Paint  the  house  with  two  coats  to  suit. 

Fig.  25.     Glove  Box. 

New  subject :    Use  of  the  miter  box. 

Wood :    Poplar. 

Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Cut  all  pieces,  making  usual  allowance  for  working.     Cut  the 

top  from  a  piece  of  straight-grained,  soft  wood,  which  will 
make   the   carving   easier.     The  triangular  pieces  that  hold 
the  top  in  place  should  not  be  cut  until  the  work  is  ready  for 
them. 
Exercises. 

1.  A.   Work  pieces  of  the  rim  to  required  size  by  usual  method. 
B.   Plane  and  sandpaper  both  sides  of  each  piece. 

2.  Nail  the  pieces  together ;   the  ends  between  the  sides.     Use  f " 

brads,  and  place  the  poorest  side  inside  of  the  box/ 

3.  Finish  the  outside  of  the  ends  with  sandpaper.     Be  careful  not  to 


86 


KING'S   HANDBOOK   FOR  TEACHERS 


i 


rack  the  box  in  doing  this.     Do  not  sandpaper  the  top  or  bottom 
edges  of  the  rim. 

A.    Make  the  bottom  of  the  box  §"  longer  and  §"  wider  than  the 

rim  of  the  box.  Measure  from 
the  rim  itself;  do  not  take  the 
dimensions  from  the  stock  list. 
B.  The  top,  or  the  best  side,  should 
receive  a  quarter  round  on  all 
edges.  Be  sure  that  the  round 
is  true,  and  that  it  does  not 
extend  on  far  enough  to  pre- 
vent the  rim  from  fitting  the 
bottom  perfectly. 
f'W.  i*  C.  Plane  and  sandpaper  the  bottom. 

D.  Fit  the  rim  to  the  bottom  of  the 

box.  It  is  important  that 
there  should  be  a  perfect  joint 
upon  the  outside,  to  insure 
which,  see  C.,  Topic  84  C. 

E.  Be  sure  that  the  rim  of  the  box 

is  square,  and  nail  the  bottom 
to  it  with  f"  brads. 

5.   A.   The  dimensions  of  the  top  should 
be  ascertained  in  the  same  way 
as  those  of  the  bottom. 
B.   Round    all    edges    to    make    a 
i  thumb     molding,     or     round 

them  under  so  that  they 
suggest  the  form  of  the 
thumb  when  held  with  the 
ball  up.  Insist  upon  the  cor- 
rect contour  of  the  curves  of 
both  the  top  and  bottom. 
C.  Plane  both  sides  of  the  top.  Do  not  sandpaper. 

6.  Select  a  simple  design  for  carving.     Draw  it  carefully  with  a  hard 

pencil,  and  with  tools  in  good  order,  proceed  to  cut  the  design. 

7.  See  Ex.  6,  Fig.  19. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


87 


8.   A.   Cut  triangular  pieces  from  a  piece  f"  wide.     Make  the  cuts 
as  indicated  in  Fig.  25  A.     Sandpaper  them. 

B.  Find  their  exact  location  by  laying  the  top  bottom-side  up  on  the 

bench  ;  place  the  rim  in  its  place  upon  the  top  while  in  this  posi- 
tion. Mark  the  two  sides  of  the  angle  of  each  corner  with  a 
sharp  knife.  Remove  the 
rim,  and  measure  the 
thickness  of  the  rim  in 
from  these  marks. 

C.  Fasten  the  triangular  blocks 

in  their  places,  using  glue 
very  sparingly. 

9.   Plane  top  of  rim  to  fit  the  un- 
der side  of  the  cover. 

10.  Inspect  for  defects. 

11.  Stain,  color  putty,  shellac,  or 

wax  to  suit  taste. 


— ' !  Jf 


Fig.  26.     Rod  Towel  Rack. 

Wood :    Poplar,  or  oak. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Cut  out  ends.    To  do  this  eco- 

nomically, an  approximate 
pattern  should  be  made. 

D.  Get  out  squares  for  the  rods, 

|"  larger  than  required. 
Exercises. 

1 .  Lay  out  the  exact  size  and  shape 

of  the  ends,  and  work  to  the 
lines.  Keep  the  edges  square 
with  the  sides. 

2.  A.   Locate  and  bore  holes  for 

rods,  boring  right  and  left, 
and  only  halfway  through 
the  ends. 


S 


O 


88 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


B.   Bore  the  holes  in  the  ends  to  receive  the  screws. 

3.  A.   Plane  the  rods  to  the  required  size.     See  Fig.  16,  Ex.  5,  B  and  C. 
B.   Cut  them  to  required  length.     Be  sure  that  the  rods  are  no 

smaller  than  they  should  be. 

4.  Plane  and  sandpaper  the  ends. 

5.  With  a  small  stick,  cover  the  sides  of  the  holes  sparingly  with  glue. 

6.  Put   all  the  rods  in  at  once;    be  sure  that  the  ends  are  square 

with  them,  both  vertically  and  horizontally,  when  the  rack  is  put 
away  for  the  glue  to  set. 

7.  Examine  for  defects,  and  remedy  them. 

8.  Stain  and  finish  to  suit  taste. 


Fig.  27.     Comer  Shelf. 
Wood :    Poplar. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Select  a  board  of  the  desired 

thickness,  and  of  a  width 
at  least  equal  to  the  ra- 
dius of  the  arc  of  the  front 
of  the  shelf. 

D.  With  a  steel  square,  mark 

the  two  back  edges  of  the 
shelf,  so  that  the  grain 
will  be  parallel  with  the 
chord  of  the  front  arc. 
Hold  the  square  as  though 
cutting  an  angle  of  45°, 
its  angle  indicating  the 
center  of  the  front  arc. 

E.  Cut  one  piece  of  a  size  which 


/> '& 27 


will  include  the  two  back  pieces  with  allowance  for  working 
Exercises. 
1.   A.   With  compasses,  draw  the  curve  of  the  front  of  the  shelf,  anc 

saw  \"  larger. 
B.   With  the  spokeshave,  work  the  edge  of  the  shelf  to  correct  line, 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


89 


2.  Plane  the  back  edges  of  the  shelf  square  with  each  other  and  with 

the  face  side. 

3.  A.   Plane  both  top  and  bottom  sides  of  the  shelf. 

B.  With  the  spokeshave,  take  a  few  light  shavings  from  each  of  the 
corners  of  the  front  edge. 

C.  Sandpaper  these  corners  to  the  form  shown  in  the  sketch. 

4.  A.   Make  backs  of  required  dimensions. 
B.   Plane  and  sandpaper. 

5.  Nail  backs  in  place.     Set  nails. 

6.  Remedy  defects. 

7.  Stain,  color  putty  for  nail  holes,  and  finish  to  suit  taste. 

Fig.  28.     Wall  Pocket. 

Wood :    Poplar. 

Preparatory  :    Same  as  hi  Fig.  1.     Apply  to  each  piece. 

A.  Make  stock  list. 

B.  Cut  pieces  for  carvings  first. 


Exercises. 

1.   A.   Work  all  pieces  to  required  dimensions  and  form,  designing 
original  details  where  possible. 


90  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

2.  Plane  pieces  which  are  to  be  carved. 

3.  Draw'  simple  design  for  carving,  and  proceed  to  cut  both  pieces. 

4.  A.   Plane  and  sandpaper  the  end,  partition,  and  bottom  pieces. 
B.   Sandpaper  carved  front  and  back. 

5.  Nail  together  with  f  "  brads.     Set  nails. 

6.  Remedy  defects. 

7.  Stain  and  finish.     Color  putty  for  nail  holes. 

Fig.  29.     Sleeve  Board. 

New  subjects:  Wedged  pin.     Scribing  (See  C.  C.  Topic  79).     Scraper. 

Wood:    Oak  and  poplar. 

Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Cut  all  pieces  as  needed.     Make  allowance  for  working. 
Exercises. 

1.  A.   Make  base  of  required  dimensions. 

B.  Bore  holes  for  pins  of  standards. 

C.  With  a  round  file,  make  the  holes  a  little  longer  on  the  under 

side  of  the  bottom,  to  allow  the  wedge  to  expand  the  pin. 

D.  Plane  top  and  bottom  sides  of  the  base. 

2.  Make  standards,  with  pins  which  fit  the  holes  of  the  base  closely. 

Do  not  cut  the  tops  of  the  standards  off.  Leave  pins  a  little 
longer  than  required.  The  standards  should  be  long  enough  to 
allow  several  attempts  at  fitting  the  shoulder,  if  necessary. 

3.  A.   Place  the  pins  of  the  standards  in  their  holes,  and  see  if  the  shoul- 

ders fit  the  back  perfectly ;  if  they  do  not,  proceed  as  follows :  — 

B.  "  Scribing."    Push  the  pin  into  the  hole  until  the  shoulder  stops 

against  the  back. 

C.  Lay  a  scraper,  or  piece  of  wood  a  little  thicker  than  the  greatest 

opening  of  the  joint,  upon  the  bottom  close  to  the  standard. 

D.  Make  a  knife  mark  around  the  standard,  being  guided  by  the 

thickness  of  the  piece  described  in  C  above.     See  Fig.  29  A. 

E.  With  a  sharp  chisel,  cut  exactly  to  these  marks,  being  sure  that 

the  wood  of  the  inside  of  the  shoulder  is  shorter  than  at  the 
surface.     If  this  is  done  accurately,  a  perfect  joint  will  result. 

F.  Repeat  this  process  with  the  other  standard. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


G.  Mark  the  center  of 
the  holes  in  the 
standards  which 
are  to  receive 
the  skeins  of 
the  axle.  Bore 
them  partially 
through. 

H.  Make  the  tops  of 
the  standards  of 
the  desired  form. 
I.  With  the  hacksaw, 
make  a  cut  the 
entire  length  of 
the  pin  of  each 
standard,  in  the 
center  of  the 
pin,  and  at  right 
angles  with  the 
width  of  the 
standard.  This 
is  to  receive  the 
wedge. 

J.  Plane,  scrape,  and 
sandpaper  the 
standards. 

4.  A.  Make  the  axle  of 
oak.  The  shoul- 
ders and  skeins 
must  fit  the 
standards.  These 
must  be  held  in 
place  tempora- 
rily while  the  axle 
is  being  fitted. 

B.  Plane,  scrape,  and 
sandpaper. 


92  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

5.  A.   Make  sleeve  board  of  the  required  size  and  form. 

B.  Plane  and  sandpaper. 

C.  Fasten  the  axle  to  the  sleeve  board  by  the  method  indicated. 

6.  Scrape  and  sandpaper  the  top  side  of  the  bottom,  and  round  the 
top  corner. 

7.  A.   Enter  the  skeins  of  the  axle  in  the  standards,  and  put  the  pins 

of  the  standards  through  the  holes  in  the  base. 
B.  Fasten  the  standards  permanently  by  wedges,  which  will  force 
the  pins  to  fill  the  elongated  holes.  Use  glue  sparingly.  A 
wedge  used  for  this  purpose  must  be  placed  at  right  angles 
with  the  grain  surrounding  the  hole  which  contains  the  pin. 
Generally  it  should  be  of  the  same  kind  of  wood. 

8.  Plane  the  ends  of  the  pins  flush  with  the  underside  of  the  bottom.    It 

is  unnecessary  to  do  anything  more  to  this  side. 

9.  Make  the  two  pieces  for  the  support  of  poplar. 

10.  Remedy  defects. 

11.  Shellac  all  but  the  poplar  sleeve  board,  which  will  be  covered 

with  cloth  before  it  is  used. 

Fig.  30.     Cart. 

Wood :    Poplar,  maple,  or  oak. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Cut  a  piece  \"  wider  than  height  of  rim,  and  long  enough  to  in- 

clude the  four  pieces. 

D.  Cut  bottom  \"  longer  and  \"  wider  than  desired. 

E.  Get  out  pieces  for  the  wheels  \"  larger  than  required. 

F.  Hard  wood  for  the  axle,  \"  wider  and  \"  longer  than  required. 

G.  Maple  or  oak  for  tongue,  I"  larger  in  square,  and  I"  longer  than 

required. 
H.   Make  piece  for  cross  handle  long  enough  to  grasp  while  working 

it  down  to  dimensions. 
Exercises. 

1.  Same  as  Exs.  1,  2,  3,  and  4  in  Fig.  1,  applied  to  each  piece  of  the 

rim. 

2.  Plane  these  pieces  on  both  sides.     The  poorer  side  will  go  inside  of 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


93 


the  box,  and  should  be  sandpapered  before  the  rim  is  nailed 
together.     Guard  against  sandpapering  the  ends  of  either  piece. 
3.   A.   Nail  the  rim  together,  the  short  ends  between  the  sides. 

Use  four  1|"  brads  to  each  corner. 

B.   Plane  the  bottom  of  the  rim  perfectly  straight  to  fit  the  bottom 
of  the  body.     See  C.,  Topic  84  C. 


4.  A.   Plane  one  edge  of  the  bottom  straight. 

B.  Plane  and  sandpaper  the  best  side. 

C.  Nail  planed  edge  to  the  bottom,  the  best  side  on  the  inside  of 

the  body.     The  grain  should  extend  lengthwise. 

D.  Be  sure  that  the  rim  is  square,  and  nail  the  bottom  all  around. 

5.  A.   Plane  the  edges  of  the  bottom  flush  with  the  rim. 

B.   Make  the  ends  of  the  rim  and  the  ends  of  the  sides  flush. 

6.  A.   Mark  the  wheels  to  the  exact   size;   in   sawing,  leave  \"  for 

working. 

B.  Bore  holes  for  skein;    be  sure  that  they  are  square  with  the 

sides  of  the  wheel. 

C.  Smooth  edge  line  with  spokeshave  and  wood  file. 

D.  Plane   and  sandpaper  the    sides  of  the  wheels,    but   not   the 

edges. 


94  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

7.  Work  the  axle  to  required  dimensions.     Be  especially  careful  that 

the  skeins  are  made  accurately.     This  will  be  the  most  difficult 
part  of  the  work. 

8.  Fasten  the  axle  to  the  box  by  means  of  screws  through  the 

bottom. 

9.  A.   Work  the  tongue  to  required  dimensions. 

B.  Fit  it  to  the  axle  and  body. 

C.  Bore  the  hole  for  the  cross  handle. 

D.  Make  the  handle  round,  and  cut  to  length.     Fasten  it  in  place. 

10.  A.  Remove  wheels  from  the  body. 

B.  Plane  the  top  of  the  rim,  and  sandpaper  it. 

C.  Sandpaper  the  outside  of  the  rim. 

D.  Fasten  the  tongue  in  its  place. 

11.  Put  on  the  wheels.     Make  and  fit  the  linchpin. 

12.  Remedy  defects. 

13.  Smooth  sharp  and  ragged  corners  by  touching  them  lightly  with 

sandpaper. 

14.  Finish  with  shellac,  if  any  finish  is  desired. 

This  model  sometimes  is  made  in  the  lower  grades  by  using  \" 
and  \"  material. 

Fig.  31.     Towel  Roller. 

Wood :    Poplar. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 

C.  Cut  piece  for  the  back,  one  piece  for  the  two  brackets,  and  one 

for  the  roller,  I"  larger  than  required. 
Exercises. 

1.  Make  the  back  of  desired  shape  and  size. 

2.  A.    Make  brackets  of  size  indicated,  but  of  original  detail. 

B.  Bore  holes  in  the  brackets  to  make  them  right  and  left.     Cut 

the  groove  in  the  right-hand  bracket,  which  allows  the  roller 
to  enter. 

C.  Bore  screw  holes  in  the  back  for  the  brackets. 

D.  Fasten  the  brackets  on  temporarily. 

3.  A.   Remove  brackets  from  the  back. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


95 


B.  Plane  both  sides  of  the  back. 

C.  Draw  design  for  carving. 

D.  Put  tools  in  order  and  cut  the  design. 

4.  A.   Sandpaper  the  face  side  of  the  back,  and  both  sides  of  the 

brackets. 
B.   Fasten  brackets  on  permanently.     Use  glue  sparingly. 

5.  A.   Work  roller  to  the  required  size,  and  perfectly  round.     Use 

smoothing  or  block  plane  to  finish  it.     Cut  to  exact  length. 
B.   Mark  size  of  pin  on  end  to  fit  holes  in  bracket. 


C.  Locate  shoulders.  Wind  a  piece  of  straight-edged  paper  around 
the  roller,  the  straight  edge  just  touching  the  point  which 
indicates  the  shoulder.  Mark  around  the  roller  by  the  edge 
of  the  paper.  Cut  the  shoulder  with  a  backsaw,  as  far  as 
the  pin  described  in  B.  Finish  the  pin  with  a  knife  or  with  a 
sharp  chisel. 

Remedy  defects. 

Sandpaper  the  roller. 

Stain,  shellac,  or  wax  to  suit  taste. 


Fig.  32.     Knife  Box. 

New  subjects :  Squaring  by  diagonals  (See  W.,  Topic  88  E.).     Grooving 

or  housing. 
Wood ;     Pine,  or  poplar. 


96 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


Preparatory:  After  the  working  draw- 
ing and  stock  list  have  been 
made,  cut  all  pieces  as  in  Fig.  1. 

Exercises. 

1.  Work  sides  and  ends  to  required 

dimensions. 

2.  Make  halved  cuts  at  ends  of  sides 

to  receive  the  ends. 

3.  Cut  grooves  in  the  center  of  the 

insides  of  the  ends  to  receive  the 
ends  of  the  handle  or  partition. 
To  insure  a  good  fit,  these 
grooves  should  be  made  a  little 
smaller,  not  a  measurable  dis- 
tance, but  enough  smaller  to 
make  it  necessary  to  use  a  little 
force  to  push  the  partition  into 
its  place.  Mark  by  the  piece 
which  is  to  fit  in,  remembering 
that  it  will  be  a  little  thinner 
after  it  has  been  planed  on 
both  sides. 

4.  A.   Plane  these  pieces  on  both  sides 

and  sandpaper  the  insides. 
B.  Nail  them  together,  using  1" 
and  1J"  brads.  Nail  the 
corners  both  ways.  Be  sure 
that  the  grooves  are  on  the 
inside,  and  that  the  box  is 
square  when  this  part  of  the 
work  is  completed.  Square 
by  diagonals,  and  tack  on 
a  small  piece  to  hold  it 
square.  See  W.,  Topic  34  B. 

5.  A.    Make  the  bottom  1"  longer 

and  I"  wider  than  the  rim 
of  the  box. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


97 


B.  Plane  the  edge  to  a  quarter  round.    Maintain  a  good  full  curve. 

See  Fig.  25,  Ex.  4  B. 

C.  Plane  and  sandpaper. 

6.  Plane  the  bottom  of  the  rim  to  fit  the  bottom  of  the  box. 

7.  Nail  the  bottom  to  the  rim  of  the  box. 

8.  Plane  the  top  of  the  rim,  and  sandpaper  it. 

Remove  the  ragged  edges  by  touching  it 
lightly  with  sandpaper. 

9.  A.   Cut  the  partition  to  just  the  right  length 

to  fill  the  grooves  prepared  for  it. 

B.  Make  original  design  for  the  handle. 

C.  Plane  sides  and  sandpaper. 

D.  Finish  edges  accurately  to  desired  form. 

E.  Fasten  in  place  with  glue  and  1"  brads. 

Use  glue  sparingly. 

10.  Remedy  defects. 

11.  Stain  and  finish  as  desired.     Color  putty  for 

the  nail  holes. 

Fig.  33.     Paper  Knife. 

Wood :    Maple. 

Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 

Exercises. 

1.  Plane  to  exact  width.     Both  edges  straight 

and  square. 

2.  A.   Draw  the  shape  of  the  knife. 

B.  Bore  holes  in  handle ;  cut  out  between  them. 

C.  Shape  the  outside  of  the  knife  to  lines. 

3.  With  a  sharp  knife,  or  outside  gouge  of  the 

same  curve,  cut  the  curve  at  the  end  of  the 
handle  where  it  joins  the  blade.  Guard 
against  cutting  too  deep. 

4.  With  rasp   and   smoothing   plane,  work   the 

blade  down  to  the  required  thickness,  finish- 
ing one  side  first,  but  not  making  the  edge 
sharp.  Be  sure  that  the  contour  of  the  ±  ,  ~9, 

ends  of  the  handle  is  accurately  preserved. 


C 

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X        X 

98 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


5.  Secure  a  piece  of  pasteboard,  or  thin  wood,  of  a  thickness  equal  to 

the  amount  of  wood  cut  away  in  Ex.  4.  Place  this  under  the  blade 
to  give  it  stiffness,  while  the  other  side  of  the  blade  is  being 
worked  down  to  make  it  of  the  proper  thickness.  Make  both 
sides  of  the  blade  free  of  inequalities. 

6.  A.   Work  the  blade  down  to  a  sharp  edge,  which  must  be  in  the 

center  of  the  thickness  of  the  blade. 
B.   Plane  and  scrape  the  handle,  and  the  blade  if  necessary. 

7.  With  a  hard,  sharp  pencil,  lay  out  a  simple  design  for  carving. 
One  or  both  sides  may  be  carved.     Make  shallow  cuts,  as  the 

figures  will  have  to  be  small. 

8.  Remedy  defects. 

9.  Finish  with  two  coats  of  shellac,  and  oil.     Natural  color. 


Fig.  34.     Picture  Frame. 

New  subject :  Cutting  a  rabbet. 
Wood :    Cherry,  or  poplar. 


Preparatory:    Decide  size  of  frame. 
all  pieces. 


Preparatory  of  Fig.  1,  applied  to 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  99 

Exercises. 

1 .  Work  the  pieces  of  the  frame  to  required  size. 

2.  Make  lock  joints.     See  C.,  Topic  61. 

3.  Cut  rabbets  in  back  of  opening. 

4.  A.    Smooth  and  sandpaper  the  edges,  being  careful  not  to  touch 

the  wood  at  the  joint. 
B.   Glue  together.     Use  the  glue  sparingly. 

Be  sure  that  the  face  of  the  frame  is  out  of  wind  when  the  frame 
is  set  away  for  the  glue  to  harden. 

5.  A.   With  a  smoothing  plane,  plane  the  face  and  the  back. 

B.  Scrape  the  face  and  the  back,  and  make  both  ready  for 
the  sandpaper.  In  both  of  the  above,  smooth  the  back 
first,  as  that  will  minimize  the  danger  of  scratching  the 
face. 

6.  With  a  hard  pencil,  draw  a  simple  carving  design. 

7.  See  that  tools  are  perfectly  sharp,  and  cut  design. 

8.  Make  the  back  to  required  dimensions. 

9.  Sandpaper  frame,  and  plane  and  sandpaper  the  back. 

10.  Remedy  defects. 

11.  Finish  as  desired. 

12.  Fasten  the  back  on  temporarily  with  small  brads. 

Fig-  35-     Folding  Towel  Rack. 

Wood :    Poplar. 

Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1,  applied  to  all  pieces.  Make  stock  list. 

The  brackets  should  be  included  in  one  piece. 
Exercises. 

1.  Make  and  finish  back  of  size  and  shape  required.     Be  sure  that  the 

chamfer  is  the  same  on  all  sides. 

2.  Bore  holes  in  the  back  for  the  pins  of  the  bracket. 

3.  A.   Lay  out  a  shoulder  and  pin  on  each  end  of  the  piece  prepared 

for  the  brackets,  or  standards. 

B.  Cut  each  shoulder,  and  fit  it  to  the  back.  Brackets  fitted  to 
back  by  the  same  method  used  in  Fig.  28,  Exs.  2  and  3, 
omitting  F,  G,  H,  and  I  of  Ex.  3. 

4.  A.    Make  the  brackets  of  the  required  shape  and  size. 

B.   Bore  the  holes  for  the  pin  which  supports  the  arms,  about  $" 


100 


KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


deep.     Be  sure  that  the  holes  are  made  in  the  sides  of  the 
bracket  that  face  each  other. 

5.  Make  the  arms  of  the  required  size  and  shape,  so  that  when  they 

are  in  their  places,  there  will  be  no  play. 

6.  Bore  the  holes  in  the  arms  for  the  pin  upon  which  they  swing. 
These    should    be    bored    with    the    utmost    accuracy,    so   that 

the  arm  will   swing  horizontally.     Finish  top   of  standard  or 
bracket. 

7.  Make  the  pin  upon  which  the  arm  swings  to  pass  just  through 


the  hole,  not  a  tight  fit,  but  loose  enough  to  allow  the  arm  to 
move. 

8.  See  Fig.  28,  Ex.  1  C. 

9.  Plane  and  sandpaper  everything  except  the  back  and  the  edges  of 

the  back. 

10.  A.   Pass  the  pin  through  the  arms  and  into  the  holes  made  to 

receive  them  in  the  brackets  or  standards. 
B.   See  Fig.  28,  Ex.  7  B. 

11.  A.   See  Fig.  28,  Ex.  8. 

B.  Sandpaper  the  edges  and  the  chamfer. 

C.  Inspect  for  defects  and  remedy. 

12.  Stain  and  finish  as  desired. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 

Fig.  36.     Letter  Box. 

New  subjects :    Cutting  in  hinges.     Hinges. 


101 


Wood :    Poplar,  or  oak. 

Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1,  applied  to  all  pieces.    Make  stock  list. 
Exercises. 

1.    Make  all  pieces  of  the  required  shape  and  size.     Original  designs 
preferred. 


102  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

Do  not  bevel  the  top  of  the  header,  or  the  piece  which  is  above 
the  door. 

2.  A.    Plane  and  sandpaper  all  pieces. 

B.  Fasten  them  in  their  places  with  1£"  brads,  and  with  glue  used 
sparingly.  Hold  sides  in  place  while  nailing  through  the  back 
into  them. 

3.  After  the  header  is  in  place,  bevel  the  top  to  the  same  pitch  as  the 

top  of  the  sides. 

4.  A.    Make  the  top  of  size  and  shape  required. 

B.  Bevel  the  top  edge  to  fit  the  back. 

C.  Nail  it  in  its  place.     Be  sure  that  the  nails  through  the  back  into 

the  top  are  not  long  enough  to  interfere  in  cutting  the  letter  hole. 

D.  Cut  the  letter  hole.     Nail  through  the  back  into  the  top. 

5.  A.    Make  bracket  of  required  size,  and  of  original  design. 
B.   Fasten  it  in  its  place  with  glue  and  nails. 

G.  A.  Make  the  door  to  fit  closely  between  the  bottom  and  header. 
B.  Cut  the  thickness  of  the  hinges  in  the  edges  of  the  sides.  This 
gives  more  wood  in  the  door  to  receive  the  screws.  If  the 
door  does  not  swing  exactly  in  its  place,  the  hinges  may  be 
moved  a  little  by  placing  the  screw  to  one  side  of  the  hole  in 
one  side  of  the  hinge,  so  that  it  will  push  the  hinge  in  the 
direction  desired. 

7.  Inspect  for  defects,  and  remedy. 

8.  Stain  and  finish  as  desired. 

Fig.  37.     Foot  Rest.     See  C,  Topic  83. 

Wood :    Oak,  ash,  or  elm.     Poplar  or  basswood  top,  if  it  is  not  uphol- 
stered. 

Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1,  applied  to  each  piece  as  it  is  wanted. 
Exercises. 

1.  A.    Make  each  piece  of  required  dimensions. 

B.  Do  not  block-plane  either  end  of  the  legs. 

C.  Plane  all  sides  of  each  piece. 

2.  A.    Cut  the  notches  for  the  halved  and  locked  joints. 

Measure  directly  from  the  pieces  which  are  to  make  the  joint, 

not  from  dimensions  taken  by  the  rule. 
B.   With  a  sharp  gauge,  make  the  depth  cuts  of  all  pieces.     Take 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


103 


out  \"  from  each  piece  which  is  to  form  the  joint.  (The  work- 
man always  tries  to  make  all  marks  that  are  alike  with  one 
setting  of  the  gauge.  This  is,  in  general,  the  method  which 
should  be  followed.) 

These  marks  should  be  made  a  trifle  smaller  than  actually  desired,  * 
to  insure  a  close  fit,  but  not  so  close  that  the  pieces  will  be 
bruised  in  bringing  the  joint  together. 
3.   Scrape  and  sandpaper  all  the  pieces,  and  glue  them  together. 


4.  If  an  upholstered  top  is  desired,  the  top  board  may  be  of  any 

wood,  which  may  be  nailed  to  the  end  rails.  If  a  top  of  the  same 
wood  as  the  rest  is  wanted,  it  may  be  fastened  by  screws  through 
the  end  rails,  or  by  one  of  the  methods  of  doweling  explained  in 
C,  Topic  69  C. 

5.  Remedy  defects. 

6.  Stain  and  finish  as  desired. 

7.  If  the  top  is  to  be  upholstered,  the  filling  of  the  cushion  should  be 

put  in  place  and  held  there  by  a  coarse  cover,  before  the  model 
is  finished,  after  which  the  leather  or  cloth  may  be  fitted  and 
fastened  by  ornamental  upholstery  nails. 

Fig.  38.     Toilet  Case. 

New  subjects :    Moldings.     Bead  plane.     Clamps. 
Wood :    Poplar,  elm,  or  butternut. 

Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1,  applied  to  cutting  each  piece  as  it  is 
wanted. 


104 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


Exercises. 

1.   A.   Mark  face  side,  and  plane  one  edge  of  the  stiles  square  with 
it.     Leave  ends  longer  than  required. 


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B.   Mark  face  side  and  plane  one  edge  of  the  top  rail,  and  one 
edge  each  of  the  middle  and  bottom  rails. 


IN   WOODWORK  AND   CARPENTRY  105 

C.  Mark  with  knife,  cut,  and  block-plane  one  end  of  each  rail  to 

make  a  square  joint  against  one  of  the  stiles. 

D.  Mark  with  a  knife,  cut,  and  block-plane  the  three  rails  to  exact 

length  required,  so  that  the  other  end  of  them  will  make  a 
square  joint  against  the  other  stile. 

E.  Plane  the  other  edge  of  the  middle  and  bottom  rails. 

F.  Make  the  joints  of  the  frame  with  two  f "  dowels.    See  C,  Topic 

69  A. 

Allow  the  stiles  to  project  indefinitely  beyond  the  top  and 
bottom  rails,  being  sure  that  enough  is  allowed  at  the  bottom 
for  the  piece  that  projects  below. 

2.  Glue  frame  together.     Keep  faces  of  rails  and  stiles  flush  by  using 

hand  screws.     Hold  together  by  clamps  until  the  glue  has  set. 

3.  A.   Plane  the  face  and  the  back  of  frame  roughly,  to  remove  glue. 

B.  Plane  the  edges. 

C.  Cut  the  top  ends  of  the  stile  off  flush  with  the  top  of  the  top 

rail,  and  square  it  to  receive  the  cap. 

D.  Cut  bottom  of  the  stiles  off  to  the  required  length  and  block 

plane. 

E.  Cut  the  rabbet  in  the  middle  and  bottom  rails,  and  the  stiles 

to  receive  the  back  of  the  brush  case. 

F.  Smooth  the  face  of  the  frame.    Sandpaper.    See  W,  Topic  68  D. 

4.  A.    Make  the  top  shelf  of  given  dimensions.     Plane  and  sandpaper. 
B.    Fasten  it  to  the  back  with  screws.     Be  sure  that  it  is  square 

with  the  face  of  the  back. 

5.  A.   Make  the  bottom  shelf  of  the  given  dimensions. 
B.   Plane  and  sandpaper  it. 

6.  A.   Make  the  brackets  of  the  given  dimensions,  and  from  original 

design. 

B.  Fit  them  to  the  back  and  top  shelf.  The  top  of  the  brackets 
should  be  grooved  into  the  under  side  of  the  top  shelf,  if 
the  best  job  is  desired,  but  it  will  be  satisfactory  to  some  if 
the  shelf  rests  squarely  upon  the  top  of  the  brackets,  and  is 
nailed  with  1  \"  brads.  However,  if  the  brackets  are  fitted 
squarely  against  the  top  shelf,  the  workmanlike  way  to  fasten 
them  is  to  make  a  doweled  joint,  by  one  of  the  methods  ex- 
plained in  C,  Topic  69  C. 


106  KING'S  HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

C.  Cut  the  grooves  in  the  brackets  for  the  bottom  shelves. 

D.  Fasten  the  brackets  and  the  lower  shelf  together  with  glue  and 

a  hand  screw,  and  to  the  frame  with  screws  through  the  back. 
The  joint  with  the  top  shelf  should  be  made  at  the  same 
tune. 

7.  A.   With  a  \"  bead  plane,  make  the  glass  beads,  and  plane  them  all 

to  a  uniform  width  and  thickness.  Cut  the  beads  with  a 
bead  plane,  as  shown  in  Fig.  38  A.  Saw  them,  as  indicated, 
plane,  and  sandpaper.  (Drill  upon  a  scrap  in  the  use  of  the 
bead  plane.  The  pressure  should  be  exerted  lightly  in  the 
direction  indicated  by  the  arrow.) 

B.   Miter  glass  beads  in  the  frame,  flush  with  the  face,  and  nail  it 
with  f"  brads. 

8.  A.   Make  the  cap  of  the  desired  dimensions. 

B.  Plane  and  sandpaper. 

C.  Nail  it  in  place,  or  fasten  it  by  dowels  if  preferred. 

9.  Miter  a  small  molding  under  it.      (May  be  secured  at  any  mill.) 

10.  Cut  the  back  to  the  required  size,  and  nail  it  in  its  place. 

11.  Make  the  flap  of  suitable  size  to  fit  its  opening  closely. 

12.  Cut  in  the  hinges.     Use  the  gauge  to  obtain  the  depth  of  the  cu1 

for  the  thickness  of  the  hinge,  which  should  all  be  cut  out  oJ 
the  flap. 

13.  Smooth  and  sandpaper  the  flap. 

14.  Put  the  hinges  in  the  flap  so  that  a  little  more  than  half  of  the 

round  of  the  hinge  will  project  beyond  its  face. 

15.  A.   By  careful  measurement  with  the  dividers  or  compasses,  fine 

the  centers  of  the  screw  in  the  underside  of  the  top. 
B.   By  manipulating  the  screw  holes  to  one  side  or  the  other  oJ 
the  center  line,  the  hinge  may  be  pushed  in  or  out  or  end- 
ways, to  make  the  flap  hang  just  as  it  should. 

16.  Cut  strips  to  hold  the  mirror  in  from  the  back,  or  cut  a  backboarc 

of  \"  material  to  cover  the  entire  back.     This  latter  is  prefer 
able,  though  not  shown  on  the  sketch. 

17.  Inspect  carefully,  and  remedy  defects. 

18.  Stain  and  finish  as  desired. 

19.  Secure  a  suitable  flat  hook,  and  place  on  the  under  edge  of  th< 

flap. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


107 


Fig.  39.     Drawing  Board.     See  C,  Topic  86. 

New  subjects :    Gluing  a  wide  board.     Warping  of  a  wide  board.     Its 

effect  minimized.     Traverse  planing. 
Wood :    Pine  and  maple,  or  oak. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing. 

B.  Make  stock  list. 


C.  Cut  pieces  for  the  board,  not  over  3|"  wide,  which  will  make 

the  desired  width  after  jointing  and  finishing. 

D.  Cut  cleat  from  maple  or  oak. 
Exercises. 

1.   Joint  the  pieces  together.     Read  carefully  C,  Topic  86  A.     See 

also  C,  Topic  54. 

Use  I"  dowels.     Mark  for  them  by  the  method  shown  in  C,  Fig. 
110. 


108  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

2.  A.   Glue  the  board  together.     Put  the  glue  in  the  dowel  holes 

not  on  the  dowels,  and  along  the  entire  length  of  both  sidei 
of  the  joint.  Use  clamps  to  bring  the  joints  up,  and  hole 
them  while  the  glue  is  setting.  , 

B.  If  the  board  is  not  perfectly  straight  across  its  face  when  th< 
clamps  are  on,  make  it  straight  with  hand  screws  and  straight 
edges. 

3.  A.   Scrape  off  the  surplus  glue  from  each  side  of  the  board,  am 

traverse  plane  the  back  side;  that  is,  plane  it  crossways  diago 
nally  to  straighten  it.    Plane  it  lengthways  to  make  it  smooth 
B.   Joint  one  edge  of  the  board,  and  cut  it  roughly  to  the  desire< 
size. 

4.  A.   In  the  cleats,  bore  holes  of  a  size  that  will  allow  a  1"  No.  ! 

screw  to  slip  through  without  catching.  These  holes  shoul< 
be  placed  so  that  the  screws  will  not  enter  a  joint  in^th 
board. 

B.   The  holes  should  be  elongated  upon  the  side  of  the  cleat  whicl 
comes  next  to  the  board,  to  allow  the  board  to  shrink  an< 
swell,  and  still  hold  it  straight. 
Do  not  glue  the  cleat  to  the  board. 

5.  A.   Traverse  plane  the  top. 

B.    Plane  it  lengthways.     Make  it  perfectly  straight  and  smooth. 

6.  A.   Joint  the  edges  perfectly  straight,  and  make  the  board  exactl; 

square. 

B.  Prove  it  by  measuring  the  diagonals. 

C.  Sandpaper  crossways, -diagonally,  and  lengthways. 

7.  Remedy  defects. 

8.  Shellac  finish,  if  any  finish  is  desired. 

Fig.  40.     T  Square.     See  C,  Topic  87. 

New  subject :   Making  a  straight  edge.     See  C,  Topic  50. 

Wood :     Maple,  or  mahogany. 

Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1,  applied  to  each  piece. 

Exercises. 

1.  Make  the  head  of  required  shape  and  size.     Be  sure  that  the  edg 

is  perfectly  straight  and  square. 

2.  Make  the  tongue  straight  and  parallel.     See  C,  Topic  50. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  109 

3.   A.   Plane,  scrape,  and  sandpaper  the  head  and  the  tongue. 
B.   Bore  a  |"  hole  in  the  tongue.     See  Fig.  2,  Ex.  6. 


.  T 

JL 


4.  A.   Glue  the  tongue  to  the  head  at  an  exact  right  angle.     While 

the  glue  is  setting,  hold  it  in  place  with  a  hand  screw,  which 
must  bear  evenly  over  all  the  joint. 

B.  After  the  glue  has  set,  put  five  f "  No.  3  flathead  bright  screws 

through  the  tongue  into  the  head. 

C.  Remedy  defects. 

5.  Finish  with  two  coats  of  shellac,  rubbed  in  oil. 

A  more  elaborate  piece  of  work  may  be  made  by  gluing  a  narrow 
strip  of  ebony  or  white  holly  on  the  working  edge  of  the  head, 
and  on  each  edge  of  the  tongue. 

Fig.  41.     Dovetailed  Bookrack.     See  C,  Topic  92. 

New  subject :   Dovetailing. 
Wood :    Oak,  or  poplar. 
Preparatory. 

A.  Make  working  drawing.     Cut  a  piece  long  enough  to  include 

all  three  pieces,  with  a  working  allowance  of  3". 
Exercises. 
I.   A.   Plane  one  edge  straight,  and  both  ends  square  with  the  face 

side  and  edge. 

B.  From  each  end  cut  one  piece  f"  longer  than  is  required  for  the 

end  of  the  book  rack.     This  allows  for  the  possibility  that  the 
first  attempt  at  dovetailing  may  not  be  successful. 


110 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


2.  Block-plane     each 

end  of  the  remain- 
ing piece  square 
with  the  face  side 
and  edge.  This  is 
long  enough  to 
allow  the  student 
to  make  one  un- 
successful  at- 
tempt at  dovetailing  upon  each  end,  and  still  keep  his  work  up  tc 
size.  It  should  be  a  matter  of  pride  to  the  student  to  finish  this 
model  as  much  larger  than  required  as  possible,  as  it  is  an  evi- 
dence of  skillful  work. 

3.  See   C,  Topic  78.     Remember  that  all  ends  to  be  joined  should 

be  squared  and  gauged  at  once.  The  back  edges  of  the  pieces 
have  not  been  planed  yet  to  their  exact  dimensions ;  conse- 
quently, in  laying  out  the  dovetails,  the  line  to  which  the  pieces 
are  to  be  dressed  must  be  marked,  and  the  dovetails  planned 
to  be  the  same  distance  from  each  edge,  after  the  model  is 
finished.  Do  not  try  the  pieces  together  more  than  is  necessary, 
as  it  makes  the  joints  loose. 

4.  After   the   joints   are   satisfactorily  completed,   cut   the  ends  tc 

conform  to  an  original  design,  and  plane  the  bottom  to  width. 

5.  A.   Plane  and  sandpaper  the  inside  of  the  ends  and  the  bottom, 

being  careful  that  as  little  as  possible  is  taken  off  of  the  pins 
of  the  latter,  as  this  tends  to  make  the  joint  loose.  The 
plane  cut  should  begin  at  the  bottom  of  the  pins. 

6.  Using  glue  sparingly,  so  that  it  will  not  squeeze  out  on  the  in- 

side, put  the  pieces  together;    use  a  hammer  very  judiciously 
upon  a  piece  of  scrap  wood,  to  prevent  bruising  and  to  minimize 
the  danger  of  splitting  the  end. 
Be  sure  that  the  ends  stand  perfectly  square  with  the  bottom. 

7.  After  the  glue  is  set,  plane  (scrape,  if  oak  is  used)  and  sandpaper 

the  outside  of  the  bookrack.  Be  sure  that  the  plane  is  carried 
from  the  ends  on  to  the  piece,  instead  of  the  reverse,  or  the  wood 
will  be  broken  off  the  same  as  in  injudicious  block-planing. 

8.  A.    Smooth  edges  of  the  bottom  and  the  ends, 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


111 


B.   Inspect  for  blemishes,  and  correct  them. 
9.    Stain  and  finish  as  desired. 


Fig.  42.     Plate  Rack. 

New  subjects  :   Wedged  construction.     Router  plane. 

Wood  :    Oak,  elm,  or  cherry. 

Preparatory:    Same  as  in  Fig.  1,  applied  to  all  pieces. 

Exercises. 

1.   A.   Work  ends  to  desired  shape.     Do  not  plane  the  ends. 

B.  Select  the  best  sides  for  the  outsides,  and  lay  out  carefully  the 

exact  location  of  the  grooves  which  are  to  receive  the  shelves. 
Be  sure  that  the  grooves  are  a  little  smaller  than  the  thick- 
ness of  the  shelves.  Mark  with  a  knife. 

C.  Locate  the  mortises  through  which  the  tenons  of  the  shelves 


lEMflsr 
o 


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are  to  pass,  and  from  the  lines  denoting  the  grooves,  square 
across  the  edges  of  the  piece  to  the  outside.  Knife  lines 
should  now  be  made  across  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  mortise, 
but  not  across  the  rest  of  the  outside  of  the  end,  as  they 
will  show  when  the  piece  is  finished.  The  top  and  bottom 
of  the  mortises  on  the  outside  of  the  end  must  be  exactly 
square  with  the  corresponding  lines  of  the  grooves  on  the 
inside. 


112  KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 

D.  Cut  the  mortises  nearly  through  from  the  outside,  beginning 

by  boring  with  a  bit  about  I"  less  in  diameter  than  the 
thickness  of  the  shelf.  Be  sure  that  the  wood  in  the  mortises 
is  cut  away  so  that  the  tenons  which  extend  through  will 
bear  only  upon  the  inside  and  outside  of  the  ends.  See 
C,  Topic  90  A. 

E.  Cut  the  grooves  in  the  inside  of  the   end  \"  deep.     Do  not 

allow  them  to  extend  within  V'  of  the  front  edge  of  either 
piece. 
Use  a  router  plane  to  insure  accurate  depth  to  each  groove. 

F.  Cut  the  rabbets  to  receive  the  backboards  in  the  inside  corners 

of  the  ends. 

2.  A.    Cut  shelves  to  the  required  width  and  length,  including  tenons. 

B.  Block-plane  the  ends  square  with  the  edge  and  sides. 

C.  Mark  sides  of  the  tenons  on  the  ends  of  the  shelves  by  laying 

their  ends  against  the  mortises  in  the  ends  of  the  rack  into 
which  they  are  to  fit  with  the  front  edges  of  the  shelves  in 
their  exact  relation  with  the  front  edge  of  the  ends.  Number 
the  shelves  and  mortises  so  that  the  pieces  may  be  returned 
to  the  places  for  which  they  are  fitted.  Mark  with  a  knife, 
and  saw  a  little  outside  of  the  marks,  to  allow  for  smooth- 
ing the  edges  of  the  tenons. 

3.  A.    Lay  the  shelves  together  with  edges  and  ends  flush. 

B.  Hold  them  with  hand  screws. 

C.  Measure  the  required  distance  between  the  insides  of  the  ends 

of  the  plate  rack,  and  lay  it  off  equidistant  from  the  ends  of 
the  shelves. 

D.  Make  the  knife  line  by  a  try-square  across  the  front  edges  of 

the  shelves  as  they  are  held  in  one  bunch.  This  is  impor- 
tant, as  it  is  necessary  that  all  the  shelves  should  be  exactly 
the  same  length  between  the  lines  which  indicate  the  shoul- 
ders, or  the  visible  part  of  the  connection  between  the  shelf 
and  the  end. 

E.  With  a  backsaw,  make  the  cut  for  the  shoulder,  square  with 

the  face  edge,  and  to  a  depth  of  V'  from  it.     See  C,  Fig.  139. 

F.  Take  off  the  hand  screws.     Measure  about  //'  beyond  the 

shoulder  of  each  end  of  each  shelf,  from  which  point  make 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  113 

a  line  from  the  front  to  the  back  of  the  shelf.  This  line, 
where  it  does  not  cross  a  tenon,  indicates  the  end  of  the  shelf 
that  rests  against  the  bottom  of  the  groove. 

G.   Cut  carefully  to  this  line  with  a  saw,  ano!  no  more  finishing 
will  be  needed. 

4.  A.    Plane  shelves  and  ends. 

B.   Cut  grooves  in  shelves  between  the  ends.     Use  a  gouge  for 
this  purpose. 

5.  A.    Mark  holes  in  the  tenons  for  wedges. 

B.  Make  the  outside  of  the  holes  in  the  tenons  of  the  same  slant  as 

the  wedge  that  it  is  to  receive;  the  inside  of  the  holes,  or  the 
side  nearest  the  base  of  the  tenons,  should  be  about  \"  inside 
of  the  ends  when  they  are  in  place.  See  section.  This  is  to 
allow  the  force  of  the  wedge  to  pull  the  shoulder  of  the  shelf 
against  the  end,  to  assist  which,  the  part  of  the  shelf  which 
enters  the  groove  is  ^"  less  than  the  depth  of  the  groove. 

C.  Make  the  wedges  about  three  times  as  long  as  they  should  be, 

so  that  they  may  be  fitted,  and  afterward  cut  off  to  their 
correct  length. 

6.  Fit  the  tenons  to  the  mortises  for  which  they  have  been  cut.     If 

they  are  too  tight,  take  a  little  from  the  mortise,  being  very 
careful  that  no  more  is  taken  off  than  will  allow  the  tenon  to 
come  through  snugly. 

7.  Plane,  scrape,  and  sandpaper  all  pieces. 

8.  A.   Set  up  case  permanently.     Use  glue  on  the  shoulders  only. 

B.  Hold  joints  together  with  clamps  until  wedges  are  fitted. 

C.  After  the  wedges  are  fitted,  they  should  be  cut  off  so  that  they 

will  project  about  I"  above  and  below  the  shelf. 

D.  Sandpaper  wedges. 

E.  Place  a  little  glue  on  the  end  of  the  rack  where  the  wedge  will 

cover  it,  —  not  enough  to  squeeze  out,  —  and  drive  the  wedge 
into  its  permanent  place. 

9.  Fit  back  rails,  smooth,  scrape,  and'  sandpaper,  and  nail  them  in 

their  places  from  the  back. 

10.  Examine  for  defects  and  remedy  them. 

11.  Stain   and  finish  as  desired.     If   it   is   thought  best  to  fill  this 

model,  see  W,  Topic  69. 


114 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


Fig.  43.     Screen  Frame. 
New  subject:   Mortise  joint. 
Wood:    Oak. 
Preparatory. 

Same  as  in  Fig.  1. 
Exercises. 

1.  Make  stiles  and  rails  of  size  required ;   use  straight  stock. 

2.  A.   Lay  stiles  side  by  side,  inside  edges  up  and  faces  together. 

Mark  the  ends  of  mortises  with  sharp  pencil. 


B.   Lay  rails  edge  to  edge,  face  side  up,  and  measure  length  between 
shoulders,  which  should  be  equidistant  from  the  ends  of  the 
piece.     Square  all  around  the  piece  with  sharp  knife. 
3.   A.   Working  from  the  face  side  with  a  mortise  gauge,  mark  the  two 

edges  and  the  end  of  the  tenon. 
B.   Without  changing  the  set  of  the  gauge,  lay  out  the  sides  of 

the  mortises  on  the  stiles. 

(If  a  single  gauge  instead  of  a  mortise  gauge  is  used,  make 
the  first  scratch  on  all  tenons  and  mortises  without  changing 


IN   WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  115 

the  set.     Then  change  for  the  second  cut,  and  make  it  all 
around.) 

Be  sure  that  no  scratches  are  carried  beyond  the  shoulders  of 
the  rails  nor  the  ends  of  the  mortise,  or  they  will  show  on 
the  finished  work. 
C.   Cut  mortises  and  tenons  as  in  C,  Topic  65. 

4.  1"  above  the  bottom  mortise,  and  the  same  distance  below  the  top 

mortise,  bore  a  f"  hole  to  receive  a  brass  curtain  rod  or  a  dowel. 

5.  Cut  a  tenon  |"  thick,  1|"  wide,  and  $"  long  upon  the  end  of  each 

stile. 

6.  A.   Glue  the  frame  together ;  be  sure  that  it  is  out  of  wind  when 

it  is  stood  away  for  the  glue  to  set,  or  it  will  be  permanently 
twisted. 
B.   Plane,  scrape,  and  sandpaper  both  sides  of  the  frame. 

7.  A.    Make  the  feet  of  the  size  and  shape  required. 

B.  Cut  the  mortise  to  receive  the  tenon  of  the  frame  stiles. 

C.  Plane,  scrape,  and  sandpaper. 

D.  Glue  the  foot  to  the  frame.     Be  sure  that  each  is  square  with 

the  stile  to  which  it  is  glued. 

8.  A.    Make  braces  to  original  design. 

B.  Fit  them  to  their  places. 

C.  Mark  for,  and  bore  f"  holes  for  dowels  for  the  frame,  and  cor- 

responding holes  in  the  braces. 

D.  Bore  holes  in  the  feet  for  screws,  which  hold  the  bottom  of 

the  braces.     Plane,  scrape,  and  sandpaper. 

E.  If  a  straight  angle  is  used  like  the  sketch,  glue  angle  blocks  on 

them  to  receive  the  hand  screw  which  will  hold  them  in  place 
while  the  glue  is  setting.     See  C,  Topic  70. 

F.  After  the  glue  on  the  angle  blocks  has  set,  fit  dowels.    Use 

glue  on  the  joints  sparingly,  and  hold  in  place  by  screws 
through  the  feet,  and  by  hand  screws  at  the  top. 

G.  After  the  glue  has  set,  remove  hand  screws  and  take  off 

angles  carefully,  or  the  brace  will  be  damaged. 
H.    Clean  off  the  glue,  and  inspect  for  blemishes. 

9.  Stain  and  finish  to  suit  taste. 

The   opening   may   be    filled   with   a  solid  panel,  covered  with 
cloth,  or  by  a  silk  curtain,  if  preferred. 


116 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


Fig.  44.     Bookcase. 
Wood:    Oak. 

Preparatory:     Make  working  drawing  and  stock  list.     Cut  all  pieces 
to  required  dimensions,  making  allowance  for  working. 


Exercises. 

1.   A.   Make  ends  of  desired  shape  and  size.     Do  not  waste  time  ii 

block-planing  bottom  of  ends,  as  they  rest  on  the  floor. 
B.   Same  as  Ex.  1  B  of  Fig.  42. 

Complete  the  model  by  the  same  exercises  and  progression  a; 
described  in  Fig.  42.  The  only  important  adaptations  nee 
essary  will  be  in  Ex.  1  E,  in  which  the  grooves  should  bi 
made  &"  deep.  In  Ex.  3  F,  ^"  should  be  made  \". 

Ex.  3  G  should  read:  cut  from  the  front  and  back  edge 
to  the  tenons  with  a  saw,  and  cut  out  the  space  between  thi 
tenons  with  a  frame  or  turning  saw.  Begin  this  cut  wit! 
a  hole  made  by  an  auger  bit  large  enough  to  start  the  saw. 


Fig.  45.     Table.     Fig.  46.     Detail. 

New  subject :    Draw  boring.     See  W,  Topic  65  C. 

Wood :    Oak. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY 


117 


Preparatory:  Make  working  drawing  and  stock  list.  Cut  necessary 
pieces,  making  usual  allowance  for  working. 

In  cutting  the  material  for  the  top,  1|"  boards  may  be  used, 
or  thicker  material,  if  desired. 

The  appearance  of  thickness  may  be  secured  without  the 
expense  or  the  weight  of  using  the  thicker  stock,  as  follows  : 
Cut  the  material  for  the  top  from  I"  stock,  and  glue 
it  in  the  ordinary  way,  making  a  doweled  glue  joint.  Cut 
the  top  to  its  required  size  roughly,  and  straighten  the  under 
side  across  the  ends  by  traverse  planing.  Glue  pieces 


about  5"  wide  and  as  long  as  the  top  on  the  under  side  of 
the  top,  flush  with  the  edges.  Cut  pieces  5"  long,  and  enough 
in  width  to  fill  in  between  these  edge  pieces,  and  glue  them 
flush  with  the  end  of  the  top.  The  whole  may  now  be  treated 
as  though  the  entire  top  were  glued  of  thick  material. 
Exercises. 

1.   A.   The  legs  and  rails  should  be  made  of  solid  oak.    Allow  a 
tenon  of  about  2J"  on  the  end  of  each  rail  to  enter  the  legs. 
B.   Cut  shoulders  and  tenons  on  the  ends  of  each  rail,  marking 
them  by  the  mortise  gauge. 


118 


KING'S   HANDBOOK  FOR  TEACHERS 


C.  Set  the  head  of  the  mortise  gauge  back,  the  amount  of  sinkagi 
required  between  the  face  of  the  legs  and  the  face  of  th< 
rails,  and  mark  the  tenons  on  the  legs.  In  doing  this,  bi 
careful  that  the  best  sides  of  the  legs  are  kept  on  the  outside 

2.  A.    Cut  the  tenons  with  a  ripsaw,  and  the  shoulders  with  a  backsaw 
B.    Miter  the  ends  of  the  tenons  so  they  will  clear  each  other  ii 

the  mortise. 

3.  A.   With  a  ripsaw,  make  a  cut  to  the  lines  of  the  mortises  of  eacl 

side  of  each  leg,  making  the  cut  upon  the  inside  of  the  lines 
to  maintain  the  size  of  the  mortise. 
B.   Trim  out  the  corners,  bottom,  and  sides  of  the  mortise,  workinj 


carefully  to  the  lines. 

C.  Fit  the  rails  in  their  places.  Mark  all  joints  for  future  identi 
fication. 

4.  A.   Draw  bore  the  joint.     See  W,  Topic  65  C. 

B.  Make  the  pins  of  required  length,  and  round  the  top  ove 
carefully.  If  it  is  desired  to  save  a  little  work,  the  dra^ 
boring  may  be  done  from  the  inside,  in  which  case  the  end 
of  the  pins  will  not  show  on  the  outside. 

5.  Plane,    scrape,    and    sandpaper   all   pieces ;     leave   no   sharp  o 

ragged  corners.     The  corners  of  the  legs  should  be  rounde 
quite  perceptibly. 

6.  A.   Glue  end  rails  and  legs  together.     Pin  them. 

B.  Glue  side  rails  and  legs  together,  and  drive  the  pins  in  thei 
places.  Drive  the  pins  so  that  their  rounded  tops  wi 
just  project  beyond  the  surface  of  the  leg,  if  the  pegs  ar 
driven  from  the  outside. 


IN  WOODWORK  AND  CARPENTRY  119 

7.  A.    Place  the  boards  of  the  top  together  and  match  the  figure  of 

grain.  If  possible,  the  grain  of  the  boards  should  run  in  the 
direction  easiest  planed  from  that  side.  This  is  not  so  im- 
portant as  it  is  that  the  figure  should  match  well. 

B.  Joint  edges.     See  C,  Topic  54  and  Topic  69  A,  for  instruc- 

tions in  jointing  and  doweling.  The  dowels  should  be 
placed  not  more  than  15"  to  centers. 

C.  Glue  the  top,  using  clamps.     Put  the  glue  in  the  dowel  holes 

and  along  the  whole  length  of  the  joint.     See  W,  Topic  66. 

D.  Cut  top  to  approximate  size.     (If  piece  is  to  be  glued  on  to 

make  the  top  appear  thicker,  refer  to  preparatory  instruc- 
tions of  this  model.) 

E.  Make  top  of  required  dimensions. 

F.  Joint  the  tops  of  the  legs  and  rails  straight  and  true. 

G.  Straighten  under  side  of  the  top,  and  fit  it  and  the  legs  and 

rails  to  each  other. 

8.  Fasten  the  top   on  by  method  indicated  in  C,  Fig.  46,  A  or  B. 

The  latter  method  is  to  be  preferred,  as  it  allows  the  top  to 
shrink  and  swell  without  danger  of  opening  the  joints. 

9.  A.   Traverse  plane  the  top.     Take  a  very  light  shaving. 

B.  Plane  lengthways  with  jack  plane. 

C.  Traverse  lightly  with  jointer  if  necessary,  and  make  the  top 

straight  in  all  directions. 

D.  Smooth  with  finely  adjusted  smoothing  plane. 

E.  Scrape  with  a  sharp  scraper ;   remove  all  grain  marks,  and  be 

careful  not  to  dig  a  hole  which  can  be  felt  in  passing  the  hand 
over  the  top. 

F.  Sandpaper  lengthways.     Do  this  very  thoroughly,  being  sure 

that  the  sandpaper  does  not  slip  off  of  the  corners. 

G.  Give  the  corners  a  perceptible  round ;    do  this  accurately,  or 

it  will  look  worse  than  if  it  were  not  done  at  all. 

10.  Inspect  for  defects,  and  remedy  them. 

11.  Stain  and  finish  as  desired. 


CHAPTER   VI 

ANSWERS  TO  ARITHMETIC  QUESTIONS 
I.   Elements  of  Construction,  Chapter  V 


4.    iV- 

6.    N.  side,  20'.     S.  side,  79'  6".    E.  and  W.  sides,  17'  7|' 

5.    221". 

22.   349'  nearly.                  37.    20  sq.  yd. 

7.    7349.38  sq. 

ft.              23.    970'.                               38.    375'. 

13.    f. 

24.    14"  x  28"  glass.          39.    55^  cu.  yd. 

14.    17  pieces. 

25.    5"  to  each  piece.         40.    §0.91. 

17.    231  cu.  in. 

26.    1505.56".                      41.    $17.44. 

18.    1  gal. 

31.    2976"  B.  M.                 44.    1485". 

19.    14'  B.  M. 

34.    2160  cu.  in.                  45.    308'. 

20.    250'. 

35.    1  bu.                             46.    8  Ib.  weights. 

21.   50,244". 

36.   280'  B.  M.                    47.    $  10. 

48.   A 

received  $6.89.     B  received  $5.51. 

50.    The  latter  two  are  the  cheaper.     Saved  $  .62. 

51.    45'. 

53.    67i'.                              59.    10. 

52.    $66.82. 

58.    10?.                               60.    14.546'. 

61. 

2  ends      18"    long  x  12£"  wide  x  f"  thick, 

2  sides      25|"  long  x  12|"  wide  x  ]"  thick, 

1  top         19|"  long  x  25i"  wj(ie  x  |"  thick, 

1  bottom  19|"  long  x  25$"  wide  x  f  "  thick. 

62.    150'. 

64.    A's  pay  should  be  raised  to  11?  per  hour. 

63.    . 

65.    B's  pay  should  be  cut  down  to  7.3?  per  hour. 

66.    18'. 

70.    14?  per  hour.                              74.    8.87'. 

67.    20,124.2  Ib. 

71.    7'.                                                  75.    $97.60. 

68.    74f. 

72.    Neither  ;  a  catch  question.        76.    402'.     $18.76. 

69.    Lost,  $1.31f.        73.    1512  cu.  ft.                                  77.    Made  $16.66. 

78.    Thejournei 

fman  mechanic  would  be  15?  per  hour  the  cheaper. 

79.   2  sides      6'  2"  long  x  12"    wide  x  1"  thick, 

2  ends      2'  0"  long  x  12"    wide  x  1 "  thick, 

1  top         2'  2"  long  x  6'  2"  wide  x  1"  thick, 

1  bottom  2'  2"  long  x  6'  2"  wide  x  1 "  thick. 

120 


ANSWERS  121 

80.  491'.         82.  251'.         84.    4".  86.    2470'.         88.    10''. 

81.  lO.i'.         83.49''.          85.    Four  7-lb.  weights.         87.    13|'.          89.    37},'. 
90.    87.15.  91.    B  receives  §2.00.     C  receives  $1.60. 

92.    2<i  rafters.  93.    410'.  94.    20.11'.  95.    38'. 

96.  His  duty  as  foreman  requires  that  he  should  report  the  case,  also  the  pro- 

tection of  his  own  reputation.  A's  financial  loss  is  $  of  the  money 
paid  for  the  labor. 

97.  24i'.          98>    ni/.          99.    17*'.  100.    15'.          101.    14,000  shingles. 
102.    125'.                      103.    61.35.  104.    Nothing;  a  catch  question. 

105.  1946  people.  108.    21J'.  112.   31.36  Ib. 

106.  14'.  110.   30  days.  113.   $24.62. 

107.  10$'.  HI-   7840  shingles.  114.    17.21'. 
118.  A  receives  $4.80.  B  receives  $4.20.  119.    900'. 

120.    24  double  periods.  121.    640  ft.  of  rails.     2560  ft.  of  boards. 

122.  675  people.  126.   B  paid  7  ^  per  hour. 

123.  209,350  Ib.  127.   $7.20.  128.    2516. 

129.   2  stiles        6' 8"  x  4"  x  1|", 

1  top  rail       2'0"x4"xl|", 

1  middle  rail  2'  0"  x  6"  x  H", 

1  bottom  rail  2'0"  x  7"  x  1|". 

130.    8.89'.  135.    A.  139.   142.6  cu.  yd. 

131  /  88 1  cu.  yd.        136.    10?-.  140.   50  rafters  2  x  6  x  14'  long. 

132.  $11.11.  137.    36'.  141.   $38.22. 

133.  6336  laths.         138.    17^'.  142.   38  Ib. 

143.   $13.047.  144.   25  students  @  8^  per  hour. 

145.    10  pieces  1".    1  piece  f "  left. 

146.  9.197'.  149.    12"  x  24"  glass. 

147.  A  f ,  B  |  of  the  work.  150.   Four  6-lb.  weights. 

148.  425'.  151.    1512  tiles. 

154.  87.24.  155.    A  received  80  ^.     B  received  64  0.  156.  4'. 

157.  1320' long.  160.    16' 3"  nearly.  163.   840'.  166.  1|". 

158.  108,900'.  161.    154'.  164.   7500'.  167.  f". 

159.  99.03  Ib.  162.    7'.  165.    1".  168.  |". 

169.  B's  work  causes  a  loss  of  20^. 

170.  -8200.  175.    2".  180.  Yes. 

171.  820.16.  176.   9762  laths.  181.  204f. 

172.  790'.  177.   41".  182.  12£  hr. 

173.  $35.55.  178.    10'.  183.  5'6|". 

174.  42.66  Ib.  179.    12£0  per  hour.  184.  640'. 

185.    16,128'.    Nine  14  x  30  4  It.  windows. 
186.    355  cu.  yd.  187.   $44.375.  188.    42'  B.  M. 


122 


ANSWERS 


189. 

10'  6".                           196.   $28.50. 

203.    130  per  hour. 

190. 

$38.52.                        '197.  A,  100  per  hour. 

204.   8?,0  per  hour. 

191. 

80  per  hour.                 198.   47  layers. 

205.    100  per  hour. 

192. 

180  per  hour.              199.   DO  0-lb.  weights. 

206.    $340. 

193. 

144'.                              200.   $27.30. 

207.    $12,000. 

194. 

$1.40.                           201.   The  last.     40. 

208.   3'7f  nearly. 

195. 

$14.74.                           202.   80  per  hour. 

209.   71.09  cu.  ft. 

210. 

6'  x  6'.       211.   A  receives  $  1.46.     B  receives  $1.34.     C  receives  $  1.  10. 

212. 

$7.50.                          214.    142  hours. 

216.   $25.60. 

213. 

$9.16f.                         215.    80  per  hour. 

217.   810  per  hour. 

218.   A  receives  80  per  hour.     B  receives  120  per  hour. 

219. 

2000'.        220.   $  128.         221.   £  of  the  work. 

222.   91'.        223.   $5.33. 

224.    A  should  receive  $  13.33.     B  should  receive  $6.67. 

225. 

A  should  receive  $5.       B  should  receive 

$4.17.       C  should  receive 

$2.50.     D  should  receive  $8.33. 

226. 

A's  time  is  200  cheaper.                           227. 

$32.12. 

229. 

10'  4".                                234.    2V. 

239.    11  hr. 

230. 

12  0  per  hour.                    235.    -fa. 

240.    3  0  per  hour. 

231. 

80.                                       236.    TV 

241.    88.00. 

232. 

|  of  a  foot.                        237.    101  '8|". 

242.    ^  profit. 

233. 

|f  of  afoot.                       238.    -80.20. 

243.    854.02. 

244. 

$10,000.     $20,000.     $13,333.     $21,666.67. 

8  15,000. 

245.   2  tops       4'  x  3'  x  I", 

12  legs  2()i"  x  2'  x  3", 
6  rails  3' 8"  x  5"  x  1", 
'     6  rails  2' 8"  x  5"  x  1". 
246.    83'.  247.    B  8^0  per  hour.     C.   6^0  per  hour. 

248.    B's  table  cost  100  more.     C's  table  cost  360  more. 

249.  A's  table  brings  160  profit.     B's  table,  cost  =  price.     C's  table,  causes 

200  loss. 

250.  6' 6"  in  sight.  252.   $2610.  254.    81.15.  256.   40. 

251.  $25.19.  253.   $105.55.  255.    100.  257.   $2.49. 

258.    21  hr.  259.   6f  hr. 

260.    2  sides  2'  Of "  x      7£"  x  |", 

2  ends  l'3i"x      7£"  x  1", 

1  top     I'5i"x2'6|"x  I", 

1  top     l'5£"x  2'6f'x|". 

261.  12J'.  265.   $10.29.  272.   $45. 

262.  $3.60.  266.   41  hr.  273.   50. 

263.  $32.40.  269.   $1.05. 

264.  8".  271.   $945. 


ANSWERS 


123 


274. 

275. 
278. 

279. 


286. 
287. 


295. 
296. 
297. 


A  receives  10  <f>  per  hour. 

hour. 

$3220.67.  276.    14' 2Ty '. 

B  receives  7  ?  per  hour. 

hour. 
75?.       280.    10  hr.       281. 

284.  A  does  ^ 

285.  A's  share,  $12. 
($8.25  hr.  288.    12'. 

708.6  Ib.  290.    I960'.  2* 

294.   3  stiles       18"  x  3" 

2  rails        42"  x  3" 

3  inuntins  12"  x  3" 

4  panels     13"  x  9£ 

298.    $8.125. 


B  receives  5^  per  hour.     C  receives  10  fi  per 


277.    11.85hr. 
C  receives  7$?  per  hour.     D  receives  6?  per 


37.825  da.  work. 
20  men. 

$8.40. 


per  hour.       282.   5T5Tda.       283.    24  da. 
per  day.     B  does  ^  per  day. 
B's  share,  $8. 

291.  825'.  293.   $5.25. 

292.  17$  Ib. 
x|", 
xf", 
x|", 
x|". 

302.    800'.  305.    $4.80. 

299.  56'.  303.    $4.80. 

300.  424'.  304.    $1.70. 


II.    Inside  Finishing,  Chapter  VIII 


1. 
2. 
3. 
4. 

18. 
19. 

29. 
30. 
31. 
32. 
33. 
42 
43. 
44. 
46. 
47. 
48 


22%. 
1-8%. 
$15.66. 
Ratio,  $. 


$3. 

10%. 

92$?. 

10%. 


10. 

11. 

13. 
14. 


70%. 
|  loss. 
$286.87$. 
9A  hr. 


16.    10%  loss. 

16.    7,2?  per  hour. 


17.    A's  pay  reduced  20%.     B's  pay  raised  33$  %. 

22.    $129.41.  25.    41.52+%. 

24.   835.00. 

27.    12?  per  hour.  28.    A  lays  977'+.     B  lays  1220'+. 

A  receives  $16.50.     B  receives  $7.35.     C  receives  $3.15. 


25.2  da. 
$1.20. 


A's  pay  reduced  20%. 

20.  $122.50. 

21.  $1.26|. 


$42. 

6  students. 

32,233  sq.  ft. 

13$  da. 

A  receives  $2.88. 

$  146.65. 

20%. 

864  sci.  ft. 

53f  hr. 

720  sq.  ft. 


34. 
35. 
37. 
38. 


40  and  50. 
30f.     46$. 

6J%- 

*2$%- 


99}f. 


39.    .02f%. 
41.   39  squares. 


B  receives  $2.40. 
49.    $16. <H><;. 
178.88; 
$133. 

14?%. 

22  men. 


50. 
51. 
52. 
53. 


C  receives  $  1.92.    D  receives  $  1.44. 

54.  29%. 

55.  18,937  sq.  ft. 

58.  $31.54. 

59.  llihr. 

60.  20%. 


124 


ANSWERS 


61.  3.70  da.  63.    -$58.80. 

62.  80%.  64.    751.08  sq.  ft. 

65.   A  receives  -$10.40.     Others  receive  $'29.00. 


67. 


70. 
71. 
72. 
73. 
74. 
75. 
76. 
78. 
79. 
80. 
81. 
82. 
83. 
84. 
85. 
87. 
88. 
89. 
90. 
91. 


147. 
148. 
149. 


156.    10'. 


162. 
163. 
164. 


Made  11.7%.  92!    .$20.50. 

37$%.  93.    -$390. 

35.34  sq.ft.  94.    98.46%. 

30%  waste.  95.    92.3%. 

A  is  4.6%  cheaper.      96.    7  %. 

lOf  %.  97.    140  sq.  ft. 

1800  Ib. 

19.23  cu.  ft. 

170%. 

787$  sq.  ft. 

2325  bricks. 


12  ft.  high. 
15,129  bricks. 
.$50.00. 


291  sq.  ft. 
47' 0". 

821.275  sq.  ft. 
24  hr. 

3f%. 

llT83%gaiii. 


98.  10'  x  14'. 

99.  20  sq.ft. 
100.    $300. 

102.  $22.50. 

103.  $345.00. 

104.  7.9%. 

105.  144  sq.  ft. 

106.  14'  x  10'  3"+. 

107.  1293  cu.  ft. 

108.  5240  bricks. 

109.  1.50+  sq.  ft. 

110.  1580  sq.  in. 

111.  25.75+  sq.  ft. 

112.  98  T. 

113.  0531  sq.  ft. 

114.  -$17.77. 

115.  1.29%  loss. 

145:    210;  512;  1728;  5832;  27,000. 

146.  27;  144;  512;  1728;  5832;  27,000. 
30  ;  9  ;  25 ;  0400.  150.  2 ;  3  ;  7  ;  9. 

27  ;  125  ;  729 ;  5205.          151.  2  ;  2 ;  3  orders. 
5;  12$;  18;  24$;. 40.         152.  1;  1;  1;  1  order. 

153.  2 ;  3 ;  4 ;  5 ;  7  ;  9 ;  10. 

154.  25;  27.71+;  72.00+ ;  113.872+ ;  438.88+. 

155.  3.1+ ;  4.79+;  18  nearly.  70.14. 

157.   40'.        158.    20'.        159.   20.00' nearly. 

161.    Either  7  iV  or  7 f"  rise. 
Of".  165.    12'  0"  long. 

12' 0"  long.  166.   40.31'. 

Hi"  wjde.  167.    26.49  square. 

171.  7-|"  or  7f"  rise;  10/y  or  !)ry  run. 

172.  llty  or  10Ty  wide. 


116.  78i%. 

117.  10%  loss. 
120.    58|%. 

122.  7  t  per  hour. 

123.  2484'. 

124.  A  is  91^  cheaper, 

126.  48%. 

127.  3.7%. 

128.  30  §  %+ left. 

129.  1452.77'. 

130.  |%. 

132.  19Ty/0. 

133.  60f%. 

134.  28.8%. 

135.  13.3%. 

136.  11.25%. 

138.  -$  137.73  profit. 

139.  18. 5%  nearly. 

140.  120f. 

141.  38 r\%  profit. 

142.  $30.60. 

143.  4;  8;   12. 

144.  9;  81;  400;  025. 


160.   7Ty  rise 

168.  00'. 

169.  33.3'. 

170.  03.5'. 


ANSWERS 


125 


173.   27"  fall. 
174.    Ty  pitch. 
175.    62y'fall. 

177.    415.475". 
178.    14.6'. 
179.    165.13  sq.  ft. 

181.    3450  sq.  ft. 
182.   5875.2  gal. 
183.   3331.374  gal. 

176.    72.256". 

180.    25  circles. 

184.    1396.115  sq.  ft. 

185.    a.  2;  b.  2  ;  c.  25 

;  d.  20;  e.  20  ;  /.  3;  g.  4; 

h.  4  ;  i.  10  ;  j.  4  ;  k.  2  ;  I.  5  ; 

TO.  7  ;  n.  1  ;  o. 

4;  p.  13;  q.  5  ;  r.  6;  s.  4; 

t.  46  ;  u.  2  ;  v.  3  ;  w.  33. 

186.    a.  77  ;  6.  18  ;  c. 

144  ;  d.  30  ;   e.  60  ;  /.  288  ; 

g.  126;  ft.  48  ;  i.  40;  j.  48  ; 

A;.  55;  Z.  16;  in.  90;  w.  21. 

187.    a. 

3;  b.  8;  c.  4;  d.  7;  e.  5;  /.  3;  g.  4. 

188.    a. 

36  ;  6.  54  ;  c.  120  ;  d.  3  ;  e, 

,3;/.  5;  g.B. 

189.    118,400'. 

198.    38.485  sq.  ft. 

207.   38'  x  50'. 

190.    810  cu.  ft. 

199.   20'  diameter. 

208.   62'  8". 

191.    200  sq.  ft. 

200.    49.48  sq.  ft. 

209.   40'. 

192.    192  sq.  ft. 

201.    2.513'. 

210.   80.061. 

193.   812|  sq.  ft. 

202.    20,106.24  sq.  ft. 

211.   10'. 

194.    120.83  sq.  ft. 

203.    472  pupils. 

212.   90  T. 

195.    2122  sq.  ft. 

204.    482,348.76  cu.  ft. 

213.   19  sq.  ft.  nearly. 

196.    28.27  ft. 

205.    12,058.02  sq.  ft. 

214.   27'  x  34'. 

197.    12'  6". 

206.    1253.64. 

215.   16|  ft. 

216. 

6"  x  8"  will  have  4  sq.  in. 

more  area. 

217.    48  sq.  in. 

237.   There  will  be  no  ridge.      257.   12'  7f". 

218.    6'4f". 

238.    3'  long. 

258.   4H". 

219.    12'  7"+. 

239.   3'4f"long. 

259.    12'  4". 

220.    ft". 

240.   TV'  shorter. 

260.   16'. 

221.    16.97". 

241.    14'  1"  long. 

261.   13'  11". 

222.    7.  14  'nearly. 

242.    14"  rise/ 

262.    14'5J». 

223.    9  'A}"  nearly. 

243.    31ryiong. 

263.   15'  7". 

224.    12.07  ft.  nearly. 

244.    20'  10"  long. 

264.    15'  5^". 

225.    10'3£"+. 

245.    21'  9-1"  long. 

265.   15'  4}". 

226.    13'7J"+. 

246.    19'  6"  long.' 

266.    15'  7$". 

227.    14'  rise. 

247.    281f"long. 

267.    li"  shorter. 

228.    16,720  shingles. 

248.    lTy  shorter. 

268.   2'  10"  shorter. 

229.    *  44.10. 

249.    12'  long. 

269.   2'  5i"  shorter. 

230.    113.60. 

250.    18'  long. 

270.   14  ry  shorter. 

231.    20'  6". 

251     24  'long. 

271.   10'  5". 

232.   42  rafters. 

252.    3'  long. 

272.    10'  10£". 

233.    17  ft. 

253.   4'  long. 

273.  4jj"  shorter. 

234.    1(1'  run,  10'  8"  rise.      254.   6'  long. 

274.   12289. 

235.    20'. 

255.    14'  5"  long. 

275.   $55. 

236.    16'  3". 

256.    15'  7|". 

276.   $81. 

277.   45  bu.  liine  ;  157|  bu 

.  sand. 

126 


ANSWERS 


278.   $107.79. 


279.    73  bu.  lime  ;  202  bu.  sand. 


280.    146  studs. 

287.    13,685'. 

294.   $45.33. 

301.    $2533. 

281.    $1.92. 

288.    .$20.08. 

295.   $7. 

302.    814.76. 

282.    2104'. 

289.    $45.00. 

296.   $0.62. 

303.    45  gal. 

283.    2314'. 

290.    $27.00. 

297.   $34.10. 

304.    8126. 

284.    400  sq.ft. 

291.    $14.06. 

298.   $66.88. 

305.    16$  gal. 

285.    427  sq.  ft. 

292.    $50.75. 

299.   $03.04. 

306.    $16.75. 

286.    12,820'. 

293.    $56.70. 

300.   $9.33. 

307.    $30.70. 

INDEX 


Accuracy,  importance  of ,  4,  18. 

Adjusting  mechanism,  overhauling  of, 
27. 

Adjusting  parts,  ordering  of,  26. 

Administration,  of  finances,  31. 

Advanced  class,  work  of,  17  ;  preparing 
of  stock  by,  57. 

Alcohol  and  shellac,  33. 

Algebraic  symbols,  in  formulas,   16. 

Allowance  for  working  and  cutting,  56. 

Arithmetic,  questions  in,  how  to  as- 
sign, 15 ;  use  of,  in  manual-training 
classes,  42. 

Auger  bit,  described,  23;  for  equip- 
ment, 35-38. 

Awls,  for  hafts,  see  Equipment  lists, 
37,  38. 

Backsaw,  for  equipment,  35,  36,  38 ; 
new  subject  (fig.  1),  61. 

Basswood,  for  models,  30,  61. 

Bastard  mill  files,  flat,  for  equipment, 
37,  38. 

Bead  plane,  for  equipment,  37,  38 ; 
new  subject  (fig.  38),  103. 

Beginning  classes,  cutting  of  stock  for, 
57. 

Bench,  position  at,  14  ;  selection  of,  25  ; 
equipment  for,  21,  35,  36,  37 ;  work, 
see  Suggestive  Courses,  44-54. 

Bench  hook,  use  of,  3,  58 ;  for  equip- 
ment, 35,  36,38;  how  to  make,  74. 

Bevel,  for  equipment,  35,  36,  39. 

Bevel  square,  new  subject  (fig.  3),  63. 

Bird  house,  how  to  make,  84. 

Bit,  auger,  described,  23 ;  for  equip- 
ment, 35-38  ;  new  subject  (fig.  2),  62. 

Bit  files,  for  equipment,  37. 

Bitbrace,  use  of,  2,  3  ;  description  of, 
23 ;  for  equipment,  35,  36,  38 ; 
different  forms  of,  new  subject  (fig. 
10),  69. 


Bits,    center,   for   equipment,    37,    39; 

new  subject  (fig.  2),  62. 
Bits,    expansion,    for    equipment,    37. 
Bits  for  general  use,  21. 
Bits,  German,  for  equipment,  37,  38 ; 

new  subject  (fig.  14),  74. 
Blackboard,  use  of,  12. 
Black  gum,  for  models,  30. 
Blades,     for     turn-saw     frames,     37; 

hack-saw,  37. 

Blemishes,  in  lumber,  32,  56. 
Block  plane,  use    of,    3 ;    new  subject 

(fig.  1),  61;      iron    knucklejoint,    for 

equipment,  22,  35,  36,  38. 
Blotting  pad,  how  to  make,  81. 
Blueprints,  7. 

Boards,  kinds  and  thicknesses   of,  30. 
Bookcase,  how  to  make,  116. 
Bookrack,   dovetailed,    how  to   make, 

109. 

Borrowing,  of  tools,  27. 
Bracket  shelf,  how  to  make,  82. 
Bradawl,  new  subject  (fig.  9),  68. 
Breast  drill,  for  equipment,  37. 
Brush,  for  stains  and  filling,  described, 

34;    for  equipment,  35,  36,  38. 
Button  pliers,  for  equipment,  37,   38. 

Cabinet  files,  for  equipment,  37,  39. 

Cabinet  scrapers,  description  of,  25 ; 
for  equipment,  37,  38. 

Cap  iron,  28. 

Carpentry,  teaching  hints  on,  10-20 ; 
course,  equipment  for,  35;  sugges- 
tive trade  courses  in,  52-54. 

Carpet  tacks,  34. 

Cart,   how  to  make,   92. 

Carving,  wood,  new  subject  (fig.  19),  80. 

Caul,  gluing  with,  new  subject  (fig.  6), 
66. 

Center  bits,  for  equipment,  37,39. 

Chamfering,  new  subject  (fig.  9),  68. 


127 


128 


INDEX 


Cherry,  for  models,  30. 

Chisel,  for  paring,  new  subject  (fig.  2), 
62. 

Chisels,  for  equipment,  21,  35,  36,  37, 
38,  39. 

Circles,  areas  of,  16. 

Clamps,  for  equipment,  37,  39 ;  new 
subject  (fig.  38),  103. 

Class,  size  of,  7  ;  in  construction,  ad- 
vanced, 17. 

Clinch  nails,  new  subject  (fig.  16),  76. 

Coat  hanger,  how  to  make,  79. 

Commercial  work,  material  for,  58. 

Comparison   of   tools,    22-26. 

Compass  saws,  for  equipment,  37,  39  ; 
new  subject  (fig.  10),  69. 

Compasses,    new   subject    (fig.    2),    62. 

Construction,  in  carpentry,  12,  13 ; 
advanced  class  in,  17  ;  wedged,  new 
subject  (fig.  42),  110. 

Corner  shelf,  how  to  make,  88. 

Countersinks,  described,  24 ;  for 
equipment,  37,  39 ;  new  subject 
(fig.  10),  74. 

Course,  one,  for  all  students,  6,  41. 

Courses,  planning  of,  29 ;  time  nec- 
essary for  completion  of,  40  ;  use  of, 
outlined,  40 ;  in  manual  training, 
44-51 ;  in  carpentry,  52-54. 

Criticism,  in  class,  17. 

Crossgrained  wood,   planing  of,    13. 

Cube  root,  16. 

Curves,  laying  out  of,  new  subject 
(fig.  18),  79. 

Cutting  board,  how  to  make,  75. 

Cutting-off  saw,  use  of,  13;  for 
equipment,  35,  36,  37,  38 ;  new  sub- 
ject (fig.  1),  61. 

Dado  plane,  for  equipment,  38. 

Defacement  of  tools,  29. 

Demonstration  of  tools,  11,  17. 

Design,  simplicity  of,  8 ;  original, 
6,  8,  9,  42. 

Designs,    suggestive,    61-119. 

Diagonals,  squaring  by,  new  subject 
(fig.  32),  95. 

Diagrams,  blackboard,  13. 

Dimensions,  how  they  should  be  re- 
garded, 57. 

Direct  method,  advantage  of,  4. 


Discussion,  class,  17. 
Dish  drainer,  how  to  make,  78. 
"Dog,"  used  on  workbench,  25. 
Dovetailed    bookrack,    how    to    make, 

109. 
Draw    boring,    new   subject    (fig.    45) , 

116. 

Drawing  board,  how  to  make,  106 
Drawing  kits,  for  equipment,  37,  38. 
Drawings,  working,  8,  42;  perspective, 

41. 

Drawshaves,  for  equipment,  37,  38. 
Drill,  class,  2,  9,  13. 

Economy,  in  cutting    material,  9,  57; 

in  using  figures,  15  ;     in  purchasing 

material,  32. 
Edge    tools,    for     individual    student, 

21 ;    effect  of   sandpaper   upon,  new 

subject  (fig.  5),  65. 
Ellipse,  new  subject  (fig.  15),  75. 
Emery  wheel,  use  of,  28. 
End  wood,  making  joint  upon,  59. 
Equipment,    complete,   for  carpenter's 

shop,  21  ;  economical,  21 ;  care  of,  26; 

lists  of,  35-39. 

Estimating,  how  to  teach,  20. 
Examinations,  42. 
Exercises,  in  the  joints,  1,  10;   written, 

11,  13,  17,  42;    grading  of,  40. 
Expansion  bits,  for  equipment,  37. 

Facts,  treatment  of,  13. 

Figures,  steel,  for  equipment,  37,  38. 

Files,     for     equipment,     37,     38,     39; 

use   of,   60;    new    subject   .(fig.    7), 

67. 

Filling,  brushes  for,  34. 
Finishing  materials,  liquid,  33. 
Fishline  winder,  how  to  make,  68. 
Flower  stick,  how  to  make,  64. 
Foot  rest,  how  to  make,  102. 
Form,  true,  how  to  know,  8. 
Formulas,  use  of  algebraic  symbols  in, 

16. 

Fractions,  16. 

Frame  building,  construction  of,  12. 
Frame  saw,  new  subject  (fig.  10),  69; 

see  also,  25. 
Framing   squares,   for   equipment,   36, 

38. 


INDEX 


129 


Gable,  laying  out  of,  new  subject  (fig. 
24),  84. 

Gauge,  use  of,  13  ;  description  of,  22  ; 
for  equipment,  35,  36,  38 ;  new  sub- 
ject (fig.  1),  61. 

German  bits,  for  equipment,  37,  38 ; 
new  subject  (fig.  14),  74. 

Glass  cutter,  for  equipment,  37,  38. 

Glove  box,  how  to  make,  85. 

Glue,  hot  and  cold,  32 ;  new  subject 
(fig.  6)  ,66. 

(lining,  special  place  for,  19;  new  sub- 
ject (fig.  6),  66;  (fig.  39),  106. 

Gouges,  for  equipment,  37,  39;  inside 
and  outside,  new  subject  (fig.  22), 
82. 

Grading  of  exercises,  40. 

Graduations,  on  gauge,  22 ;  on  try- 
squares,  23. 

Grain,  sandpapering  across,  60 ;  of 
hard  wood,  new  subject  (fig.  7),  67; 
direction  of,  new  subject  (fig.  10), 
69 ;  relation  of  dimensions  to,  new 
subject  (fig.  14),  74. 

Grinding  of  tools,  28. 

Grindstone,   for  equipment,    37,    39. 

Grip  of  nails,  new  subject  (fig.  17), 
78. 

Gripnut,  in  bitbrace,  23. 

Grooving,  new  subject  (fig.  32),  95. 

Hack-saw  frame,  for  equipment,  37. 
Hafts,    peg-awl,     for     equipment,    37, 

38. 
Hammer,    for    equipment,    21,  35,  36, 

38 ;    bell-faced  claw,  description  of, 

24. 
Handscrews,    use    of,    in    gluing,     19 ; 

description   of,    25 ;     for   equipment, 

37,  39  ;   new  subject  (fig.  6),  66. 
Hard    wood,    grain    of,    new    subject 

(fig.  7),  67, 

Hatchets,   for  equipment,   37,  39. 
Hatrack,  how  to  make,  68. 
Hinges,  new  subject  (fig.  36),  101. 
Housing,  new  subject  (fig.  32),  95. 

Incentive,  model  as,  5. 
Individual  equipment  of  tools,  35,  36. 
Individual  work,   how  to  provide  for, 
5,8,  11,29,30,31,41. 


Iron  jointers,  for  equipment,  36,  38. 
Iron  planes,  22 ;    see  also  Equipment, 

lists  of,  35-39. 
Iron   tongue   and   groove   plane,   for 

equipment,  37. 

Jack  board,   use  of   bench  hook  as,  3, 

58 ;     use   of,    in    block   planing,    59. 
Jack  plane,  use  of,   2,  57  ;    for  equip- 
ment, 35,  36,  38;   new  subject  (fig. 

1),  61. 

"  Jennings"  auger  bit,  23. 
Joint,  how  to  make,  59. 

Dovetail  (fig.  41),  109. 

Doweled  (fig.  37),  103. 

Draw  bored  (fig.  45),  116. 

Draw  wedged  (fig.  42),  110. 

Glued  (fig.  39),  106. 

Halved  (fig.  23),  83,  (fig.  37),  102. 

Housed  (fig.  32),  95. 

Mitered  (fig.  38),  105. 

Mortise  and  tenon  (fig.  43),  113. 

Notched  (fig.  16),  77. 
Joints,  exercises  in,  1,  11. 

Key  rack,  how  to  make,  80. 
Key  tag,  how  to  make,  62. 
Knife  box,  how  to  make,  95. 
Knife,  paper,  how  to  make,  97. 
Knife,  use  of,  in  marking,  17;  new  sub- 
ject (fig.  1),  61. 
Knives,  sloyd,  for  equipment,  37,  38. 

Laziness,  how  to  prevent,  14. 

Letter  box,  how  to  make,  101. 

Letters,  steel,  for  equipment,  37. 

Level,  for  equipment,  37,  38. 

Lines,  straight  and  curVed,  alterna- 
tions of,  8. 

List,  stock,  for.  each  model,  9;  new 
subject  (fig.  16),  76. 

Lists  of  equipment,  35-39. 

Lumber,  grades  of,  32. 

Mallet,  for  equipment,  35^  36,  39. 
Manual  training,  suggestive  courses  in, 

44-51. 

Maple,  for  models,  30. 
Marking,  use  of  knife  in,  17. 
Match  planes,  for  equipment,  37. 
Material,  purchase  of,  30,  31. 


130 


INDEX 


Miter  box,  use  of,  new  subject  (fig. 
25),  85. 

Model,  preliminary  work  upon,  1,  4,  8  ; 
importance  of  the,  5  ;  stock  cutting 
for,  9  ;  smoothing  of,  19;  making  the, 
58. 

Models,  value  of  large,  2  ;  sequence  of, 
6;  selection  of,  7,  41,  56;  sup- 
plementary, 1 1  ;  material  for,  29  ; 
value  of  small,  30 ;  use  of,  in  sug- 
gestive courses,  41 ;  cutting  stock 
for,  57  ;  undersize,  58. 

Moldings,  new  subject  (fig.  38),  103. 

Monkey  wrench,  for  equipment,  37, 
38. 

Mortise  joint,  new  subject  (fig.  43), 
113. 

Mortises  (fig.  42),  113. 

Nail  sets,  for  equipment,  37,  38. 

Nails,  purchase  of,  34 ;  clinch,  new 
subject  (fig.  16),  76;  maximum 
grip  of,  new  subje'ct  (fig.  17),  78. 

New  subjects,  56 ;    see  also  figs.   1—46. 

New  tools,  5. 

Nippers,  end-cutting,  for  equipment, 
37,  38. 

Notebook,  carpentry,  14. 

Oak,     for     models,     30;      plain,     32; 

quartered,  32. 
Octagon  plant  stand,  73. 
Oil  can,  for  equipment,  35,  36,  38. 
Oilstone,  for  equipment,  35,  36,  38. 
Oilstoning,  28. 

Originality  of  design,  6,  8,  9,  42. 
"Out  of  wind,"  57. 

Paint,  new  subject  (fig.  24),  84. 

Paper  knife,  how  to  make,  97. 

Pen  tray,  how  to  make,  82. 

Pencil,  indiscriminate  use  of,  17,  IS. 

Pencil    compasses,   for    equipment,  37, 

38. 

Pencil  sharpener,  how  to  make,  GO. 
Perspective  drawings,  41. 
Phraseology,  in  arithmetic,  15. 
Picture  frame,  how  to  make,  98. 
Picture  frames,  mitered,  59. 
Pine,    for    models,    30;      new    subject 

(fig.  1),  61. 


Pitches,  of  roofs,  16. 

Plane,  block,  3,  61  (new  subject,  fig.  1). 

Dado,  for  equipment,  3<s. 

Iron,  description  of,   22  ;  for  equip- 
ment, 32,  35,  36,  38. 

Jack,  2,  57,  61    (new  subject,  fig.  1); 
for  equipment,  35,  36,  38. 

Router,  new  subject  (fig.  42),  110. 

Smoothing,  13,  18. 

Wood  bead,  for  equipment,  37,  3S. 

Wooden,  22. 
Planes     of     projection,     new     subject 

(fig.  16),  76. 
Planing,    traverse,    new    subject     (fig. 

38),  106. 

Plant  label,  how  to  make,  61. 
Plant  stand,  how  to  make:   octagonal, 

73;  halved,  83. 
Plate  rack,  how  to  make,  110. 
Poplar,  for  models,  30. 
Position,  at  bench,  14. 
Preliminary  work,   on  models,    1  ;    see 

also  figs.   1-45. 
Principles,  of  tools,  4,  11. 
Projection,   three  planes  of   new   sub- 
ject (fig.  16),  76. 

Rabbet,  cutting  a,  new  subject  (fig.  34), 
98. 

Rabbet  plane,  iron,  for  equipment, 
37,  38. 

Racks,  equipment  for,  21,  36,  3S. 

Rasps,  use  of,  18,  60 ;  new  subject  (fig. 
7),  67. 

Ratchet  brace,  for  equipment,  37,  38. 

Reference  books,   use  of,    10. 

References  to  other  volumes,  explained, 
43. 

Research,  upon  tools,  17 ;  in  carpen- 
try course,  42. 

Review,  11. 

Ripsaw,  use  of,  13;  for  equipment 
35,  36,  38;  new  subject  (fig.  1),  01. 

Roofs,  shingling  of,  15 ;  construction 
of,  10. 

Router  plane,  new  subject  (fig.  42), 
110. 

Routing  plane1,  for  equipment,  37. 

Rule,  for  equipment,  21,  35,  30,  3s ; 
straight,  23;  folding,  23;  new  sub- 
ject (fig.  1),  61  ;  how  to  make,  71. 


INDEX 


131 


Sand  shovel,  how  to  make,  76. 

Sandpaper,  use  of,   18,  59;    new  sub- 
ject (fig.  5),  69. 

Sandpaper  block,  use  of,  60;    how  to 
make,  <>•">. 

Saw,  back,  for  equipment,  35,  36,  38 ; 
new  subject  (fig.  1),  61. 
Compass,  for  cutting  curves,  25  ;  for 
equipment,    37,    39 ;    new  subject 
(fig.   10),  69. 

Cutting-off,  use  of,  13;  for  equip- 
ment, 35,  36,  37,  38  ;  new  subject 
(fig.  1),  61. 

Frame,  new  subject  (fig.  10),  69. 
Rip,  use  of,   13  ;   for  equipment,  35, 
36,  38;    new  subject  (fig.   1),  61. 
Turning   (or  frame),   description  of, 
25 ;    for  equipment,    37,  39 ;    new 
subject  (fig.  10),  69. 

Saw  filing,  19. 

Scale,  use  of,  in  construction,   12. 

Scraper,  use  of,  18;    new  subject  (fig. 
29),  90. 

Scrapers,  cabinet,  25. 

Scratcher,  on  gauge,  22. 

Screen  frame,  how  to  make,  113.     • 

Screwdriver,  for  equipment,  35,  36,  38; 
new  subject  (fig.  14),  74. 

Screws,  miscellaneous,  for  equipment, 
26  ;  purchase  of,  34. 

Scribing,  new  subject  (fig.  29),  90. 
•Selection  of  models,  7,  41,  56. 

Sequence,  of  tools,  2  ;   of  work,  56. 

Sharpening  of  tools,  26. 

Shelf,  bracket,  how  to  make,  82;    cor- 
ner, 88. 

Shellac,     how    to    purchase,     33,    34; 
new  subject  (fig.  6),  66. 

Shingling,  15. 

Shooting  board,  3,  58. 

Silk  winder,  how  to  make,  67. 

Sketches,     blackboard,     13 ;     see    also 
"  Drawings." 

Sleeve  board,  how  to  make,  90. 

Slip  stones,  for  equipment,  37,  39. 

Smoothing  and  sandpapering,  18. 

Smoothing  plane,  use  of,  18 ;  for  equip- 
ment, 36,  38. 

Spokeshave,  use  of,  18,  60 ;   for  equip- 
ment, 37,  38  ;  new  subject  (fig.  2),  62. 

Square  root,  16. 


Squaring  by  diagonals,  new  subject  (fig. 
32),  95. 

Stains,  how  to  purchase,  33,  34  ;  new 
subject  (fig.  9),  68. 

Stairs,  flight  of,  12. 

Stamp,  steel  department,  for  equip- 
ment, 37,  38. 

Steel  square,  use  of,  16  ;  divisions  of, 
24  ;  in  laying  out  of  gable,  new  sub- 
ject (fig.  24),  84. 

Stock  bill,  making  of,  20. 

Stock  cutting,  9,  56. 

Stock  lists,  new  subject  (fig.  16),  76. 

Straight  edge,  new  subject  (fig.  40), 
108. 

Studding,  in  plaster  partitions,  new 
subject  (fig.  9),  68. 

Subjects,  new,  for  description  and 
demonstration,  56. 

Suggestions,  for  models,  7,  8,  41,  42. 

Supplies,    estimating   for,    29. 

T  square,  how  to  make,  108. 

Table,   how  to  make!   116. 

Table  mat,  how  to  make,  69. 

Tables  of  circumferences  and  areas, 
16. 

Tacks,  carpet,  34. 

Taper  files,  for  equipment,  37,  39. 

Teacher,  in  relation  to  class,  6 ;  his 
qare  of  tools,  27. 

Teaching  hints,  special,  56-61. 

Tendencies  to  be  guarded  against,  17, 
59. 

Tenons  (fig.  42),  113. 

Tests   and   examinations,   42. 

Theory,  in  study  of  carpentry,  10 ; 
and  practice,  42 ;  talks  upon,  44, 
note. 

Thumb-screw,  in  bitbrace,  23. 

Time  for  completion  of  courses,  40; 
see  also  "  Suggestive  Courses,"  44-54. 

Toilet  case,  how  to  make,  103. 

Tool  rack,  how  to  make,  72. 

Tool  work,  see  "Courses  in  Carpentry," 
52-54. 

Tools,  sequence  of,  2 ;  new,  4 ;  con- 
struction and  use  of,  11,  17:  com- 
parison of,  22 ;  sharpening  of,  26 ; 
losses  and  breakages  of,  28 ;  lists  of, 
for  equipment,  35-39. 


132 


INDEX 


Towel  rack,  how  to  make:  rod,  S7 ; 
folding,  99. 

Towel  roller,  how  to  make,  54. 

Traverse  planing,  new  subject  (fig. 
39),  106. 

Try-square,  description  of,  23 ;  for 
equipment,  21,  35,  36,  38 ;  new  sub- 
ject (fig.  1),  61. 

Turn-saw  frames,  for  equipment,  37, 
39. 

Twist  drills,  for  equipment,  37,  38. 

Undersize  models,  58. 
Vises,  on  workbench,  26. 

Wall  pocket,  how  to  make,  89. 
Warping,  new  subject  (fig.  39),  106. 
Waste,  allowance  for,  in  supplies,  29  ; 

in  stock  cutting,  31,  56. 
Wax  finishes,  33. 


Wedge,  how  to  make,  63. 

Wedged  construction,  new  subject  (fig. 

42),   110. 

Wedged  pin,   new  subject   (fig.  29),  90. 
Whetting,  2S. 

Whittling,  new  subject  (fig.  1),  61. 
Wind,  out  of,  57. 
Wing  dividers,  for  equipment,  35,  36, 

37,  3S. 
Wood    carving,    new  subject  (fig.   19), 

80. 
Wood,  hard,  new  subject  (fig.  7),  67; 

kinds  of,  see  Cherry,  Oak,  etc. 
Wood    stains,    new    subject    (fig.    9), 

68. 
Work,  individual,  5,  8,  11,  29,  30,  31, 

41. 

Workbench,  for  equipment,  25. 
Working  drawings,  8,  42. 
Written  exercises,  11,  13,  17,  42. 
Written  work,  topics  for,  see  "  Sugges- 
tive Courses,"  44-54. 


VOCATIONAL    EDUCATION 

By  JOHN  M.    GILLETTE,  Professor  of  Sociology  in  the 
State  University  of  North  Dakota 

$1.00 


IN  this  volume  is  presented  for  teachers,  superintendents, 
and  teachers'  reading  circles  an  illuminating  discussion  of 
the  present  general  movement  for  vocational  education. 
By  this  phrase  is  meant  not  only  industrial  education;  but  all 
the  training  courses  needed  to  meet  the  practical  demands  of 
life. 

^[  The  author  explains  at  some  length  the  principles,  de- 
mands, and  methods  of  vocational  education;  he  states  the 
grounds  upon  which  hopes  of  success  may  reasonably  rest; 
he  indicates  some  actual  results  gained  by  schools  conducted 
on  more  practical  lines ;  and  he  points  out  others  which 
would  follow  upon  the  reorganization  of  our  educational  sys- 
tem in  general. 

^j  The  vocationalizing  of  the  schools  has  regard  to  the  con- 
stitution, inclination  and  ability  of  the  individual,  and  is  in- 
tended to  give  him  suitable  training  for  his  niche  in  life,  to 
show  him  how  he  can  make  the  most  of  himself  and  in  what 
line  he  can  prove  himself  most  productive  to  society  At 
the  same  time,  this  scheme  of  education  does  not  ignore  the 
informational,  the  cultural,  and  the  disciplinary  aspects — it 
insists  that  the  individual  be  fitted  for  good  citizenship. 
^f  The  introduction  of  vocational  education  into  the  public 
school  system  of  the  United  States,  with  the  curriculum  ad- 
apted to  the  chief  kinds  of  occupation  belonging  to  each  com- 
munity, will  mean  greater  development  and  power  for  the 
country.  From  vocational  education,  introduced  to  meet  the 
differing  community  needs,  will  result  greater  efficiency  and 
better  appreciation  of  the  schools,  increased  attendance  of 
pupils,  greater  compensation  for  teachers,  greater  productive- 
ness, higher  wages,  and  improved  society. 


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DESCRIPTIVE 
CATALOGUE    OF    HIGH 
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TEXT-BOOKS 

Published   Complete  and  in  Sections 


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